Want to learn to sew? We'll show you how to sew using a sewing machine from start to finish.
Time 15-60 minutes
ComplexityBeginner
Cost$5-$20 depending on materials
Introduction
Master basic mending with our step-by-step guide on how to sew holes in clothes. Set up your machine and fix your garments in no time.
Watch How To Sew: The Basics
Tools Required
- Denim or universal sewing machine needle
- Fabric measuring tape
- Fabric scissors
- Iron and ironing board or towel
- Sewing machine
Materials Required
- Fabric
- Iron-on patch
- Thread
I was in the first grade when I got my first sewing machine. While my mother worked on matching Christmas outfits for my sister and me, I used her scraps of fabric to make doll clothes and tiny heart pillows. I think about how teaching this skill is part of my family’s tradition—passed down from generation to generation, much like my great-great grandmother’s rocking chair now sitting in my bedroom. It’s a link to the past and those that came before us. I think about the Great Depression, when my great-grandmother made dresses from flour sack fabric so my grandmother would have something pretty and new to wear, and how they mended clothes because they couldn’t just buy something new whenever they wanted. I think of my grandfather, who learned to mend clothes and sew on buttons during the war and took such good care of his machine that it still works today. And while much of our clothing is no longer handmade, in this age of affordable but always-revolving fashion, sewing still allows me to mend the clothes that I love and revitalize clothes I no longer wear by adding some creativity.
It gives me great pleasure to share this knowledge with you. So, let’s explore how to use a sewing machine and how to mend a hole in your clothes.
The Machine
To begin, note that each sewing machine can be a bit different. With a price range of $80 to over $2000, sewing machines can be basic, while others have some technical gadgetry and are made for heavy-duty sewing, like upholstery repair and leather. Whichever you purchase, it will be important to learn the specifics of that model by reviewing the manual that comes with your specific machine.
On average, all basic machines have similar parts and thread similarly. In this example, we are using a Brother LX3817 Sewing Machine that is on the lower end of cost. This basic machine might not have all the bells and whistles, but it should allow you to do a basic stitch for sewing clothing, darning holes, and to use a zigzag stitch for sewing on a patch. You really don’t need to purchase an expensive machine if you are just getting started—just make sure that you don’t purchase something that is so cheap it doesn’t work very well and you end up getting frustrated.
Once you have your machine, let’s set it up!
Parts of a Sewing machine
Project step-by-step (10)
Step 1
Setting up a sewing machine
Put the machine on a sturdy table wide enough to arrange some of your tools and fabric. I like to take over the kitchen table; just make sure the maple syrup is cleaned up from breakfast.
Plug the pedal into the machine and the machine into the wall.
Step 2
Attach thread
Place the spool of thread onto the thread pin. The spool has a little notch that holds the end of the pin. I recommend ensuring that the notch is on top of the spool rather than the bottom when placing the spool onto the pin. This will keep the thread from catching on that notch when spinning.
Step 3
Threading a bobbin
Sewing machines need two threads to work: the spool on the top and the bobbin on the bottom. Some machines will come with a bobbin already filled with thread, but you will want the bobbin thread to be the same as the spool so the threads match. Grab an empty bobbin and add the thread to it.
This can look different depending on the machine. Typically, you follow the arrows and images on the machine or review the manual for its specific set-up.
Step 4
Choose a needle
There might already be a needle installed in the machine. However, different needles work for different fabrics. For mending a hole in jeans or denim, there are specific denim needles that will puncture through that tough fabric. A pack of universal needles might also work; just look for the numbers on the package. The numbers correspond with the type of fabric they work with.
Universal Needles: 70/10 is used for silk, 80/10 is used for everyday projects and are the most universal, and 90/14 can be used for heavier materials like denim.
Step 5
Install the needle
When installing, press the needle into place with the flat edge facing back and tighten the clamp screw.
Step 6
How to thread a sewing machine
Depending on the type of machine you are using, the process may differ slightly, but essentially, you follow the same steps:
- Pull the thread from the spool pin on top of the machine through the thread guide.
- Then, down the front of the machine in the slot to the right of the tension control
- Around the tension control
- Then, back up the front face of the machine through the slot on the left side of the tension control and through the take up lever, which you must manually turn the hand wheel towards you to make appear.
- From here, you will return down the same slot that the take-up lever occupies and pass through the needle’s eye.
Step 7
Insert and thread the bobbin
Lift the bobbin cover plate and follow the arrows to insert your bobbin thread appropriately under the needle.
Next, pull up the bobbin thread by grabbing the needle thread with your left hand and pulling it tight. Use your right hand to rotate the hand wheel towards you. This will bring the needle into the bottom and back up. Tug the needle thread slightly, as this will then pull the bobbin thread up and through the needle plate. Pull both thread ends out towards the back of the machine and replace the bobbin cover plate. Now, the machine is set up.
Step 8
Test the machine
Once the machine is set up, practice with a basic stitch and get the hang of applying pressure to the foot pedal. Use scrap fabric or a piece of paper to test it out. Here are the steps to follow:
- Lift the presser foot and place the fabric or paper underneath it.
- Once the foot has been lowered down, apply pressure to the foot pedal. This will start the sewing machine.
- Most machines have a stitch wheel that changes the type of stitch you can use. Depending on the stitch, different presser feet plates may be required. For starters, stick with the standard presser foot plate and learn the basics with a straight stitch.
- Use your hands to guide the fabric as it runs through the machine.
- At the end of the stitch, press the back stitch button to ensure that the stitch does not unravel. This is not necessary when a stitch is temporary.
- Release the presser foot, pull the fabric out and cut the string.
Step 9
How to sew a hole
For straight holes and tears in fabric that isn’t stretchy, use an iron-on patch the color of the fabric secured to the inside of the garment and a darning stitch. A darning stitch essentially fills the hole with straight stitches while keeping the rest of the fabric from fraying, and it will help reinforce the patch. This is a bit more complicated and needs steady hands to execute.
- Prep the hole by cutting away any frayed edges around the hole with sharp scissors. Cut the iron-on patch roughly 3/4-to-1-inch bigger than the hole in each direction and place it inside the garment with the adhesive facing the hole. Iron on the patch. Use a scrap piece of fabric over the hole so you don’t accidentally iron the patch to the ironing board through the hole in the garment.
- Use a cotton thread that is the same color as the pants (unless you want a more creative and decorative look). Place the fabric under the needle and then lower the foot. Adjust the stitch wheel so it’s a straight stitch. Sew a box around the hole in sturdy fabric approximately 3/8- to 1/2-inch away from the hole. When you get to the corners of the box, stop with the needle down through the fabric, raise the presser foot, turn the garment 90°, re-lower the presser foot and continue to sew.
- Fill the box with straight stitches, stitching rows across the tear that are just a few millimeters apart.
- For extra protection and durability, stitch across the box’s width, going parallel to the tear as well. When you are finished, cut the thread so that you can use a hand needle to get both thread ends to the inside of the garment and knot them.
Step 10
FAQ
What happens if you turn the handwheel the wrong way?
Always turn the hand wheel toward you. Going the opposite direction could disrupt the machine’s timing and cause it to need to be repaired.
Why is my zig-zag stitch not working?
Check your manual to ensure you are using the correct presser foot. Then, review the thread tension to ensure that it is between one and five. Incorrect tension can cause skipped stitches or broken stitches. If that doesn’t work, rethread the machine and bobbin and make sure you are using a bobbin that is appropriate for your machine.
Originally Published: July 29, 2024
