How To Make a Living Wall

Cut the cleats

Using a table saw, rip a few 1x4s at a 30-degree angle so the shorter face of the rip is 1-1/2-inches. This will be your frame cleats (M) and box cleats (D) that mimics the dimensions of the box slats (C). Then, rip the straight side of the offcut so that the long face is 1-in. This will be your wall cleat (E).

TMB Studio, Family Handyman
TMB Studio, Family Handyman

Pre-stain and cut

Before cutting all the boards to the finished sizes listed on the cut list, stain the boards for all the parts, except the wall cleat (E), ahead of time. By doing this, you will be able to touch up the stain after the unit has been assembled, and you will not be required to cut into tight spaces with a paintbrush and rag, which can leave lap marks. Let the stain dry overnight, and cut all your pieces the following morning.

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TMB Studio

Nail together the box frames

For each of the nine boxes of the living wall, join the top and bottom (A) with the sides (B) to create a square.  Use wood glue and 18ga. brad nails with at least three nails joining each corner. All nine boxes are the same in dimensions.

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TMB Studio

Build the vertical slat boxes

Install the first slat (C) centered in the very middle of the square box frame. Then, work your way to the left and right with three other slats on either side, leaving a 3/4-in. gap between each one, gluing and nailing them flush to the top edge of the box top and bottoms (A). Use at least two nails securing each end of each slat (C) in place. Keep your box slats (C) square to the box using a Speed square.

When all the slats are attached, flip over the box and install the box cleat (D) that will catch on the wall. This is nailed into the box top (A) and side (B) behind the slats and flush to the back edge of the box with the point of the 30-degree angle pointing down along the back edge of the box. Ensure that the box cleat (D) is secured with at least four nails through the top and sides (A & B), then reinforce it with a couple of screws, as it will bear all the weight of the box.

TMB Studio, Family Handyman
TMB Studio, Family Handyman

Build the horizontal slat boxes

Install the box cleat (D) flush to the top, back edge of the top (A) and sides (B) of the horizontal slat boxes using the same process to install the box cleats on the vertical slat boxes. Then leave a 1-1/2-in. gap so you have room to insert the wall cleat (E) through it when hanging it and attach the six remaining slats (C) with evenly spaced (a hair under 15/16-in.) gaps between them.

Be sure to test your first box with a wall cleat (E) to ensure it works before proceeding with the other boxes.

Family Handyman
Family Handyman

Build the planter boxes

To construct the planter box:

• Install the box cleat (D) to the top, back edge of the top (A) and sides (B) just like you have on the other boxes.
• To hold a plastic plant liner or square pot in place, attach a single box slat (C) at the back bottom of the planter box, just like the very bottom slat (C) of the horizontal slat box. Use 18ga. nails and wood glue to do this.
• Attach the planter face (F) flush to the front edge of the bottom (A) and sides (B) using 18ga. nails and wood glue.
• Finally, to create a dimensional detail (and let my creativity run wild), I cut scrap 4x4s, 2x4s, 2x2s, and 1x2s into 1/4-inch, 1/2-inch and 1-inch lengths. After staining the pieces, lay them out on the planter face (F) without glue to determine the placement you desire. Once you have a pattern you like, use CA Glue (also known as “Super Glue”) to secure the dimensional pieces to the planter box faces (F). This will avoid nail holes, filler and sanding of these pieces.

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Build the shadow box

Put together the large shadow box frame exactly like the smaller boxes. Join the shadow box top and bottom (G) with the sides (H) using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails with at least four nails joining each corner. Ensure it is constructed square by measuring corner to corner diagonally.

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TMB Studio

Build and attach the front frame

Build the front frame out of the four mitered frame pieces (J). Nail and glue the corners to create a front picture frame with flat 45-degree angles. It is imperative that this frame is constructed square. Cut test miters and measure corner to corner diagonally when assembling to ensure it comes out that way.

Lay the completed and square front frame on the completed shadow box. Use wood glue and 18ga. brad nails to join the front frame pieces (J) to the shadow box, nailing at least every nine inches. Use the square front frame as a guide to ensure there is a uniform 1/4-in. overhang over the shadow box all the way around the frame.

TMB Studio, Family Handyman
TMB Studio, Family Handyman

Build and attach the cleat support box

Using brad nails, glue and screws, build a “U” shaped three-sided box out of the cleat support top (K) and cleat support sides (L). Attach one of the frame cleats (M) flush to the back edge of the cleat support top(K) and sides (L).

Center the cleat support box on the frame. Use wood glue and pocket hole screws to attach the cleat support box to the backside of the shadow box top (G) and top frame piece (J).

TMB Studio, Family Handyman
TMB Studio, Family Handyman

Fill, paint, stain, and polyurethane

Once everything has been assembled, fill all nail holes on the finished boxes and frame with natural-colored/maple wood filler, allow it to dry, sand back and touch up the stain.

Instead of sanding away the raised wood filler with fine-grit sandpaper, which may also remove some of the stain, wet a cotton paint rag and wipe away the filler. The moisture in the rag will make the filler pliable again and allow you to feather it back for a smooth and seamless surface.

Paint the wall cleats (E) the same color as the wall so they are inconspicuous.

Once the stain has fully dried, seal the wood with two coats of polyurethane, allowing the recommended time to dry between coats. Before applying the second coat, lightly sand back the raised grain with 320-grit sandpaper. Be sure to just knock down the grain, not to sand too hard to reach the stain layers and ruin your finish.

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TMB Studio

Hang the outer frame

Having built all the living wall elements, begin the installation process with the outer frame.

• Determine the height at which you’d like to hang the living wall frame, and use a stud finder to mark the studs and the overall unit’s centerline at that location.
• Center the second frame cleat (M) on the center line with the bottom of the cleat level and 3-3/8 inches lower than the predetermined height. Secure the frame cleat (M) into at least two studs.
• Hang the frame so that the frame cleat (M) inside the cleat support box marries to the frame cleat (M) on the wall.
• Check that the unit is level. If the cleat is hung level, the frame should end up level.
• Once you’ve got the frame level and where you’d like it, crawl underneath the unit and secure the shadow box bottom (G) to the marked studs on the wall in at least two locations using two-inch angle brackets. This will permanently lock the living wall frame in place.

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Install the boxes

Now that the outer frame is installed on the wall, you can begin installing the boxes starting by placing the lowest row of boxes.

• To leave 1/2-in. gap between the frame and boxes, sit the lower boxes on a 3/4-in. piece of wood to serve as a spacer. Remember, the shadow box is recessed 1/4-inch. Therefor, placing the boxes on a 3/4-in. piece of wood will leave the 1/2-in. reveal you want.
• Slide the wall cleat (E) into position inside its box and screw it to the wall hitting at least one stud. If you can’t find a stud where your cleat needs to be positioned, mark its placement, pre-drill and install drywall anchors to hold it in place. Repeat for all boxes in this row.
• Move on to the middle row of boxes. Rest the middle row of boxes on top of the first row so they are flush on top of each other from side to side. Continue to leave the 1/2-in. gap between the boxes and the frame. Follow the same method for installing the wall cleats (E) to the wall and repeat for each box in the second row.
• Follow the same process with the top row of boxes as you did with the first two. Again, ensure a 1/2-in. gap between the frame and the sides and top of the top row of boxes. Repeat the wall cleat (E) hanging process. All nine boxes should now be installed and hung securely on the wall.

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Install the watering system

After populating the wall with plants, I followed the manufacturer’s recommendations and installed the Kollea Battery-Operated Watering System. I chose this system because it has a programmable watering schedule feature and a remote control that allows for easy watering. This system requires downward water siphoning using gravity to flow to the plants. In order to feed the water drip system, I created a water tank using a square plastic flowerpot, which I sat on top of the shadow box top (G), behind the top frame piece (J).

Identify which boxes will require watering in order to determine the path of the watering tub. To promote water flow via gravity pull, ensure the tube flows in a progressive downward direction. Using a 3/8-in. drill bit, drill holes from planter to planter, starting at the top near the water tank and working your way down to the lowest planter box.  Connect the drip system tube from top to bottom using the three-way or two-way plastic couplers included in the drip system kit.  Test the water flow before adding your plants.

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TMB Studio

Install rope light

Based on how long your rope light is, determine where you want rope placement to start and end. This will be somewhat determined by the outlet you use to power them. If you go with a battery-powered rope light, this will create more flexibility, but you’ll have to determine how and where to mount the battery pack.

Secure the rope light in place with the included plastic clips and double-sided tape to the back of the frame pieces (J).

TMB Studio
TMB Studio

FAQs

Can I use any type of plant in my living wall?

No, not all plants are suitable for a living wall. When selecting plants for your living wall, try to group the plants by the amount of light exposure and required watering schedule they require that works with the placement of your unit.

With my living wall, can I place my plants directly into the wood boxes?

You can, but there are risks. Planting directly into your wood boxes will expose the wood to excess moisture, which could develop water stains on the outside of the box and, over time, rot the wood. If you want to plant directly into the wood planter box, line it with a 3-mil plastic liner and then a weed barrier. Remember that if you do this, the plants may develop root rot if you’re overwatering your plants.