Dishwashers are game changers in the kitchen. They speed up cleanup and mostly automate an otherwise time-consuming chore. But they’re also prone to some of the same plumbing issues as your sink and other drains. If your dishwasher’s air gap is spewing water, it’s time for some plumbing repairs.

What causes a dishwasher air gap clog?

An air gap prevents dirty dishwater from backflowing into fresh water lines. But ground-up food and grease can build up inside the air gap and form a clog over time.

Why do I need to get my dishwasher air gap clog repaired?

This clog can cause water to shoot out of the air gap, making a mess over your counters and potentially flooding the area under your sink.

You’ll need to fix this problem sooner rather than later or else what started as a simple clog could end up being a lot of water damage. If water squirts out the air gap’s vent holes or you notice a foul smell coming from it, it’s time to clean it. Fortunately, this repair is easy and doesn’t require a specialist or fancy tools. All you need is a bottle brush and some household disinfecting cleaner.

How to Fix a Dishwasher Air Gap That’s Spewing Water

• Yank the cover off the dishwasher air gap and remove the snap-in or screw-on diverter.
• Remove any loose food particles.
• Soak the bottle brush in household cleaner and plunge it up and down into the air gap.
• This should clear the clog, but sometimes the backup is further down. If you still have a water leak after cleaning the air gap, clean the drain line where it meets the garbage disposer or drain wye (aka “Y”).
• Once the clog is cleared, wipe everything down and then reassemble the air gap vent.

You’ve solved your problem and saved yourself the headache of repairing water damage and deep cleaning your kitchen after running your dishwasher.

Twice in the last month, a contractor knocked on my door offering discounted services because they were “in the neighborhood” on another project, but insisted I sign up immediately. When I asked to think it over, both quickly left without providing a business card. I realize now that these were both likely home repair scams attempting to target unsuspecting homeowners.

Ahead, find tips from law enforcement and consumer protection professionals on how to avoid falling victim to these often persuasive scammers.

What Is a Home Repair Scam?

Home repair scams can take various forms but generally result in homeowners paying for repairs or services that are never started, left unfinished or, done poorly. The contractor’s intent is to intentionally defraud a homeowner for financial gain. “These issues are frustrating for consumers as often money is wasted, or the home can be left in a chaotic state,” says Layla R. D’Emilia, the Massachusetts Undersecretary of the Office of Consumer Affairs and Business Regulation.

Popular Home Repair Scams

Most home repair scams begin right on your doorstep, as it is a popular technique to go door to door.

Fast and cheap post-disaster repairs

After a natural disaster, watch out for contractors who show up to your house promising low-cost repairs done quickly. While tempting, these are often out-of-state or unlicensed workers who simply take a down payment and disappear.

Door-to-door “free” inspection scam

This home repair scam often starts when a contractor unexpectedly knocks on your door, offering a free home inspection. During the inspection, they “discover” an urgent issue and ask for upfront payment to quickly make repairs. The work is often poorly done or left incomplete.

Bait and switch

This home repair scam begins with an extremely low estimate designed to lure the homeowner. Once hired, “unforeseen issues” arise, significantly increasing the cost, often to the amount of the original highest bidder.

To avoid this one, I always try to obtain three estimates and choose the one in the middle, no matter how tempting the low estimate may be.

Signs a Contractor Is Scamming You

Like the two gentlemen that knocked on my door, pressured sales tactics is a classic sign you’re being scammed. You should never have to sign up or pay for something “right now” or else lose your chance. Other signs you’re being scammed include:

• A contractor demands full payment before work begins.
• You’ll get a discount because the contractor has leftover materials from another job.
• A contractor refuses to draw up a contract.
• Payment methods will only be cash or through an on-line payment app.
• A contractor asks you to pull permits with your municipality.

Tips to Avoid Contractor Scams

Jennifer Gundersen, Chief of Police for the town of South Hadley, Massachusetts, recommends asking neighbors and friends for contractor recommendations to avoid falling victim to home repair scams.

Other ways to protect yourself include:

• Ask for and check professional references
• Verify contractors are licensed, bonded and insured
• Require a detailed, written estimate with a clear payment schedule and work timeline
• Avoid door-to-door contractors
• Never sign something or make a payment under pressure
• Never make a large down payment before work has begun

What to Do If You Think You’re Being Scammed

“If you think you are the victim of a contractor scam, contact your local police department right away,” Gundersen says. She recommends taking a photo of the license plates of any worker vehicles so you can provide this information to the police if necessary. “You should [also] file a complaint against the contractor with your state’s relevant agency, such as consumer affairs or the attorney general,” D’Emilia says.

Other resources include your state’s Office of Consumer Affairs or Attorney General. Both can help you lodge formal complaints or take legal action.

About the Expert

• Jennifer Gundersen is the Chief of Police for the town of South Hadley, Massachusetts. She has been in this role since 2019 and began her law enforcement career in 1994.
• Layla R. D’Emilia is the Undersecretary of the Office of Consumer Affairs and Business Regulation in the state of Massachusetts. She was appointed to this position in 2023 and oversees the office and its five affiliated agencies.

Sources

New York State Department of Financial Services “Beware of Home Repair Scams”

Is it me, or is dropping liquids and foods on a carpet or rug one of the most nerve-wracking experiences? You know you have to act quickly to prevent the stain from setting in, but the panic also causes you to forget where your cleaning supplies are.

Good news: The Hoover Clean Slate and I are here to calm your nerves and save your carpet, rugs and upholstery. As a loving dog dad to an adorable but messy pup, I’ve had to pull this cleaner out several times to get our rugs and carpets clean. Since it’s a portable cleaner, I can use it in any room or to clean my car seats.

In this Hoover Clean Slate review, I’ll discuss my experience with this carpet cleaner, its special features, who it’s for and other opinions from professional cleaners. We’ll also compare the portable versions of Hoover and Bissell carpet cleaners.

What is the Hoover Clean Slate?

The Hoover Clean Slate is a portable carpet, rug and upholstery spot cleaner that removes stains. Like traditional carpet cleaners, it uses a combination of cleaning solution, scrubbing and suction to remove messes. It has the added benefit of being lightweight and able to be taken from room to room or even in the car.

Before we continue, keep in mind that this is a spot cleaner. In other words, it is meant to clean food, beverage or pet urine stains, not the entire carpet.

The Hoover Clean Slate Plus, the model we tested and reviewed, comes with three attachments—your traditional scrubber, a seven-inch WidePath tool for larger spills and a TightSpot attachment for corners and hard-to-reach areas. The 40-ounce tank is large enough to clean multiple stains, depending on their size and severity, and you’ll get a small bottle of Oxy carpet solution.

Hoover is well-known in the cleaning industry and has long been synonymous with vacuum cleaners. The famous brand has recently expanded into spot cleaners with its Clean Slate product line, which includes several models and bundles.

Hoover Clean Slate Features

Portable

The Hoover Clean Slate weighs under 10 pounds when empty, so it’s easy for most able-bodied adults and even children to carry up and down stairs or out to the car when needed, similar to a handheld vacuum. I will say the only annoying part about carrying this is the tube. It sometimes gets in the way or drags on the floor if it’s not wrapped around the cleaner, but it doesn’t make it any heavier.

In terms of storage, it’s a pretty compact unit. It’s only 14 inches deep, 10.5 inches wide and 13 inches tall, so it should fit in most closets or cleaning cupboards with no issue.

The 15-foot cord also means you don’t have to find an outlet right next to the stain. You can plug it in on the other side of the room, turn it on and get to cleaning. The tube is four and a half feet long, so you have plenty of room to maneuver it without moving the main unit.

Attachments

The Hoover Clean Slate has three attachments: a traditional vacuum nozzle with bristles, a seven-inch WidePath tool for larger spills and a TightSpot attachment for harder-to-reach areas.

All three attachments do exactly what they’re supposed to do. The traditional nozzle is the one I’ve used the most since I (knock on wood) haven’t had a spill large enough to warrant using the WidePath tool. I’ve still used it as part of my testing for this review, and it works just as fine as the regular nozzle.

The TightSpot tool has a special place in my heart because there are few things I hate more than being unable to get to a stain. This is a great tool to use in between couch cushions or around baseboards, which typically don’t get very clean with standard cleaning attachments.

My only complaint about the attachments is there’s nowhere to store them on the Hoover Clean Slate. Right now, I have them in a closet next to the cleaner, and I have to carry them when needed. It would’ve been nice if there was a storage component on the unit similar to what you see on vacuum cleaners.

Spray, Scrub, Suction

Once the Hoover Clean Slate is plugged in and turned on (the power button is right on top of the tank), you’ll hear the suction start. But let’s forget about suctioning and talk about spraying first. There’s a gray trigger on the hose that you can press to spray water (mixed with a cleaning solution) on the stain. Of course, the benefit of this is that you get to apply the soapy water directly to the stain.

Each attachment has bristles on its underside, which allow you to scrub the solution directly into the stain. It’s exactly like hand-scrubbing soap into a carpet but with more force and surface area.

The next step? Time to vacuum. Well, not really, but it’s essentially the same concept. Run the hose over the stain until it disappears. And it will happen. I’ll be honest: this isn’t the type of machine that works in one swipe, at least not for my stains. It took about six seconds of back-and-forth scrubbing/suctioning on most of the stains I tested this on. Yours might be shorter or longer. Anyway, six seconds is a short amount of time, so I got a big return on my financial and time investment.

Hose Rinse Tool

In several episodes of “The Simpsons,” Marge Simpson cleans her cleaning products (there’s an episode where she irons her trash bag before putting it in the bin). I kind of wish this fictional character could see the Hoover Clean Slate, the appliance that cleans itself.

The Hose Rinse Tool can be used after emptying the removable tank of dirty water (another feature I love) and replacing it with clean water. After attaching the Hose Rinse Tool, you can press it to flush clean water through the system to flush out any odor-causing bacteria that might be stuck within the unit. I can’t say enough good things about this feature. This should, in theory, keep the machine clean and running well for a long time since it gets rid of bacteria and other small particles.

I only say “in theory” because I’ve only had this cleaner for two months, so it’s too early to tell if this will make any difference in how long this cleaner lasts. There are some Amazon reviews saying it doesn’t have much longevity.

How We Tested It

Allow me to introduce you to Brodie: My partner’s seven-year-old fur child and my best friend.

Brodie is adorable, food-motivated, stubborn and one messy puppy. This one loves getting under the house and into the mud and just laying there, possibly rolling around in it if he’s feeling spicy. Brodie also has two younger but larger dog cousins who also love getting messy and climbing all over our furniture.

To be honest, we’ve actually replaced most of our carpet in favor of laminate flooring, but we still have a couch, bed and rugs (plus two rooms where we haven’t put the new floor in, yet) that don’t take well to dirty fur and paws. In fact, two days before I submitted this story, one of the aforementioned dog cousins got the rug under our bed fairly dirty.

Filling the tank is pretty standard. It even has markings telling you how much water and concentrate to put in for small and large areas (depending on how much you’re cleaning). The “small area” was enough to do about a quarter of an eight-by-ten rug. Oh, did I mention the rug is white? Yeah, this would be fun, especially because I had let the stain sit for about two days before getting to it.

After spraying the entire area, I got to scrubbing it before scrubbing/suctioning. This took about six seconds of work before I saw stains disappear.

I had also conducted another test in one of the rooms that’s still carpeted—spilling coffee. For what it’s worth, this was a very strong and dark coffee that was intentionally spilled on the carpet and allowed to rest for four days. I did nothing to the stain and even avoided stepping on it when I walked into the room.

This took less effort than the dog stains.

Pros

• Portable
• Powerful enough to remove set-in stains
• Hose Rinsing Tool to flush the system with clean water
• Three attachments
• Lightweight
• Compact
• Long cord and tube
• Clear markings

Cons

• No attachment storage on the main cleaning unit

FAQ

How long does the Hoover clean slate run?

The Hoover Clean Slate is plugged into a wall outlet, so in theory, it can run until you run out of clean water. Some customer reviewers note that the motor isn’t powerful enough to last more than 10-15 minutes, but we never ran ours that long.

How to empty the Hoover Clean Slate?

To empty the Hoover Clean Slate, you simply have to press the button on top of the tank, take it out, remove the lid and empty it into a tub or sink. Be sure to clean it and let it air dry before putting it back on the machine.

What other reviewers/experts had to say

Josh Miller, a professional cleaner and CEO of Clean Carpets, has used the Hoover Clean Slate and recommends it to homeowners looking for a powerful spot cleaner. “What really impressed me was this product’s impressive suction power and excellent spot-cleaning capability,” Miller says. “This will come in very handy for those toughest stains or just small areas, making it one of our most versatile cleaning artillery.”

As of this writing, the Hoover Clean Slate had a 4.4 average customer rating on Amazon, with close to 8,000 reviews. “I tried it out on this old dirty ottoman that I had purchased at the thrift store. I cleaned the top portion, and I have to say it already looks brand new,” writes 5-star Amazon reviewer Alma Estrella.

On the other hand, some say it doesn’t last very long. “I loved this product while it was working, then the hose broke due to regular usage within a year of my purchase. I purchased a new one, and the suction only works for a minute at a time. I’m moving on to another brand,” says Amazon reviewer Lisa Ingrassia.

Hoover Clean Slate vs Bissell Little Green Pro

While I have used the Hoover Clean Slate, I haven’t used the Bissell Little Green Pro—but my partner has in her previous apartment and home. She says she liked the machine and only stopped using it because she upgraded to a full-sized carpet cleaner. (Check out our recommendations for the best Bissell carpet cleaner).

“I used it after Brodie made a mess on the rug or carpet, and it was good,” she says. She recommends it to anyone looking for a spot treatment cleaner. “My only complaint is it would sometimes get clogged with pet hair,” she adds, “so you’ll need to clean out the system to make sure it continues to work.”

The Bissell (13 pounds empty) is heavier than the Hoover (9.4 pounds empty) but has a longer power cord and hose (22 feet and five feet, respectively) than the Clean Slate (15 feet and four and a half feet, respectively).

Clean Slate has a 40-ounce container, and the Bissel has a 96-ounce clean water tank. So the Bissell definitely is the choice for people who are either cleaning large surfaces, such as a minivan or sectional sofa or have a lot of pets or kids (or you could try the Bissell Revolution HydroSteam). The Hoover Clean Slate, on the other hand, works for people with smaller areas and less frequent messes.

Check out our full Bissell Little Green review for our full thoughts.

Final Verdict

The Hoover Clean Slate is a powerful, portable and versatile spot cleaner that excels in cleaning up new and set-in stains on rugs, carpets, upholstery and sofas. The 40-ounce tank is a good amount for couples or small families with a small amount of carpeting and rugs. The attachments work well, though I wish there were a way to store them on the tank, and it’s easy to empty. The hose rinse attachment is a nice touch for people who want to flush their cleaner of odor-causing bacteria.

Where to Buy the Hoover Clean Slate

The Hoover Clean Slate Plus, the model we tested and reviewed, currently retails for around $125 on Amazon. It’s also available at The Home Depot and Walmart.

Understanding how to read a tape measure is crucial for any home or professional project. Tracking multiple measurements and keeping the equipment in top-performance shape can often be a challenge. Luckily, the Milwaukee laser measure addresses both of those issues right out of the box.

Our product testing team evaluated the device on functionality, ease of use, accuracy, and who the tool will benefit the most–and the results may surprise you.

While the Milwaukee laser measure contains some nice features, such as a large, two-inch readout with a high-contrast display (which makes it easy to read and operate), some of the testing notes mentioned a few challenges while using the device. We dive deep into the Milwaukee laser measure to see how it stacks up to its competitors and help you decide if it’s the best laser tape measure for you.

What is the Milwaukee Laser Measure?

After unboxing the Milwaukee laser measure, our testers immediately felt that it was durable. The device is a digital alternative to a standard tape measure. Its red and black impact-resistant casing protects the backlit color read-out screen, and a few simple buttons operate all of the device’s features, one of which is its ability to store up to 30 measurement data points.

The Milwaukee laser measure uses a red laser beam to measure between objects or points with an accuracy level within 1/16 of an inch. The tool also offers measurement recording and the ability to perform functions like calculating total distance, area, and volume, allowing you to put down the pencil for a minute and let the tool do the hard work for you.

Milwaukee Laser Measure Features

Digital tape measures are available in several forms. While some are no more complex to use than simply pointing and shooting, others have additional functions to help you calculate multiple distances, volumes, and areas. New users can often benefit from reading the instructions for their device or following the helpful hints contained in a digital tape measure guide.

The Milwaukee laser measure is one of the latter devices. The tool is useful for determining distances and saving the information for later reference or for calculating the length of irregular surfaces containing several data and measuring points, the total surface area of an object or room, or the volume of a space.

The tool is equipped with a 150-foot measuring capacity using a red laser, which, according to our tests, works better indoors than out. It features a two-inch, high-contrast, color viewing and read-out screen; a two-position auto-detecting lever; a side-shot button for versatility; and a mounting screw-hole to mount it onto a tripod.

How We Tested It

Our product testing team ran the Milwaukee laser measure through its paces (in the team’s Milwaukee office, ironically). Overall, they determined that the tool was worthy of consideration, with a few concerns. Setting up the device was simple and only required the installation of a pair of AA batteries that Milwaukee included in the package. Our tester then had to follow the instructions to figure out how to switch from metric to standard readings and back. We expected this function to be a simple click. However, it turned out that more than a single step was involved.

Using the device, our tester determined that it’s at least as accurate as the company’s claim of being almost spot-on with a plus or minus of 1/16th of an inch. The tester liked the two measuring activation buttons, one on the top and one on the side, which made using the device in tight spaces a snap. The two-position auto-detecting lever also made awkward measurements a breeze. A note from the tester also reveals that the high-contrast viewing screen works flawlessly in almost any light.

However, the notes went on to explain that working the added functions, including adding up multiple measurements, finding square area totals, and calculating volumes, required several steps that weren’t intuitive. In fact, the tester reported having to consult the directions several times, noting that, for those who might use the tool every day, the steps would become second nature. However, casual, infrequent users may find remembering all of the steps to be tiresome.

Pros

• Compact, durable, simple construction
• Two AA batteries are included
• Protective case included
• Two measuring activation buttons for ease of use
• Read-out screen is bright and easy to read

Cons

• Red laser has limited range and accuracy in direct sunlight, according to our tests
• Functions aren’t as intuitive as some models
• Switching between metric and standard measurements not as easy as expected
• Doesn’t feature a bubble level

FAQ

How to reset Milwaukee laser measure?

According to the instruction sheet from Milwaukee, you may need to reset your laser measure tool if a measuring error occurs. To do so, simply press the ‘Clear/Power’ button to cancel the last measurement and toggle off the device. Press the ‘Laser/OK’ button to turn the device back on in a reset condition.

Why is my Milwaukee laser measure blinking?

Milwaukee builds a low-battery indicator into its laser measure. When the battery symbol on the screen begins to blink or flash, turn off the tool, replace the batteries, and reinstall the battery door. The blinking will stop when you turn the device back on. Milwaukee mentions in the user manual that only alkaline batteries should be used and removed if the tool is out of use for an extended period.

What Other Reviewers and Experts Had to Say

Our tester reported that the Milwaukee laser measure’s red laser light was limited to measuring only several feet or not at all in some cases when working with the tool in direct sunlight. However, that’s not unusual among red-light laser tools.

In general, there are two laser colors available for use in laser tools, such as measures and levels, including green and red. Technology.org reports that red lasers appear dimmer to the human eye than green ones do, especially in sunlight. However, even green lasers often require the use of a laser detector in very bright conditions.

That said, we didn’t hold the red-laser fact against Milwaukee for this tool. While green laser tools have dropped in price recently, they’re still more for use in professional settings and carry significantly higher price tags. The Milwaukee Laser Measure is geared more toward professionals who’ll use it indoors or for DIYers who plan to use it around the home.

Consumer reviewers appear to be happy with their purchase of the Milwaukee laser measure. Eighty-two percent of Home Depot reviewers recommend the product, which earns 4.1 out of five stars on the platform.

Negative reviews often mirror our tester’s findings that the tool doesn’t work well in sunlight, and a few reviewers note that it could be easier to operate for the price Milwaukee charges. However, positive reviews are also common, like this one from buyer CrazyCajun on The Home Depot’s site: ” I have tested it against my tape time and time again, and it has been on every single time…” Many other reviewers are also impressed with the tool’s small size and ability to perform multiple functions.

Milwaukee Laser Measure vs Bosch Laser Measure

Among numerous laser measuring tools we tested, we also got our hands on the Bosch laser measure and compared it side-by-side against the Milwaukee version. While the two are quite different in terms of functionality, both have excellent features that make either a solid addition to your DIY tool collection.

The Bosch Blaze 100-foot laser measure costs less than half of the Milwaukee laser measure. However, it doesn’t provide several of the additional functions that the Milwaukee one does. Where the Milwaukee laser measure is a full-function measuring, storing, and calculating device, the Blaze is designed more for simple measuring tasks.

Both devices feature a compact design, user-friendly buttons, and easy-to-read displays. Both also operate using red lasers, giving them a limited-use status for the outdoors. However, that’s pretty much where the similarities end. The Bosch, while capable of rounding up or down to the nearest measurement, can’t calculate areas or volumes.

For pros and DIYers who are willing to spend the extra money to have their measuring tool perform calculations for them, the Milwaukee Laser Measure is the way to go. However, if simple, fast, and accurate measuring is all you need, save some cash and choose the Blaze.

Final Verdict

Overall, we found the Milwaukee laser measure to be worth its somewhat elevated price tag. It took some time for our tester to sort through the instructions to realize the tool’s potential. However, once that was achieved, the reporting was mostly positive, despite the fact that it’s not very effective for use outdoors.

Our testing team liked the tool’s compact design and its ability to perform in tight or awkward spaces. The display screen was more than adequate for viewing, and the two-position activation buttons made the device even more versatile.

For those who work outdoors, the Milwaukee laser measure may be a little underperforming due to the red laser (it may be worth shelling out for a green laser tool in that case). However, DIYers and professionals who work primarily indoors can truly get some stuff done with the help of this tool.

Where to Buy the Milwaukee Laser Measure

The Milwaukee Laser Measure retails for around $100, depending on where you buy it. Ready to get measuring? Purchase yours at The Home Depot, Walmart or Ace Hardware.

When Justin Timberlake said, “What goes around comes back around,” he probably wasn’t thinking about trends. But hey, I am. And it’s true what they say: Trends always have a way of making a resurgence—but usually with a twist. If you grew up in the ’90s or early 2000s, it’s likely that your dining room or kitchen featured some shade of red paint.

And that (now updated) red is making a comeback in a big way. Behr’s 2025 color of the year is a ruby red with an equally punchy name: Rumors. The rich, sophisticated tone evokes luxury and elegance while still channeling the bright energy of the ’90s.

What is the Behr 2025 Color of the Year?

The Behr 2025 Color of the Year is Rumors, a red that “encourages people to embrace color like never before,” says Erika Woelfel, Vice President of Color and Creative Services at Behr Paint Company.

“Rumors is a modern take on a timeless red that creates an energetic appeal to make a lasting statement in a stunning way,” Woelfel explains.

Rumors is a surprisingly versatile shade for both interior and exterior surfaces. Use it to create a statement front door, immerse kitchen cabinets in color, or make a bedroom more dramatic. Not sure where to use Rumors? Woelfel recommends starting small and painting a piece of furniture with the red to really get a sense of the color.

Gold and brass details play nicely with this red hue, as well as Behr’s 2024 Color of the Year, Cracked Pepper.

Where to Buy It

Behr’s 2025 Color of the Year, Rumors, is available exclusively at The Home Depot. It’s available in five sheens, four sizes and both interior and exterior paint types. So, what are you waiting for?

Buying new tires can be overwhelming. The choices are mind-boggling, and the different ratings and various tire tread designs are confusing. Tires are expensive—period. But I can give you some tips on how to pick the right tires for your vehicle. And we’ll warn you away from the most common tire-buying mistakes. When you’re done reading, you’ll still have to drop some dough on new tires. But you’ll be less intimidated by the process and more confident about picking the right tires for your vehicle.

Set Your Priorities

The most common mistake tire buyers make is to choose tires based solely on price. Here’s a better way to approach the tire-buying process. Start by ranking the following tire features in order of importance to you: traction, tread wear, noise, handling/ride comfort and warranty. Shop for tires based on your top three priorities. However, if you’re on a really tight budget, you may have to settle for your top priority and ditch the rest.

The U.S. Department of Transportation mandates tire testing to arrive at traction, temperature and tread wear ratings. Other tire features, such as appearance and warranty, are personal preferences.

Ranking your priorities is a great first step if you’re buying a set of four tires. But if you’re buying only two tires, it’s a whole new ballgame. In that case, you must buy two new tires that match the “keeper” tires. Buy new tires with a tread design that’s as close as possible to that of the two old tires. Match the traction ratings as well. Mismatching new and old tires can cause uneven braking and instability in turns.

Once you pick out the two new tires, make sure the dealer mounts them on the rear of the vehicle (even if it’s front-wheel drive). New rubber on the rear greatly reduces the likelihood of rear-end fishtailing during acceleration and hard stops.

The Best Strategies for Buying Tires

It’s always a good idea to check objective data on different tire brands before you buy. One good site to check is Tire Rack. Tire Rack conducts its own tests and posts the results online. And it posts actual customer tire reviews. You can read it all by clicking the “Tire Reviews” tab at the left side of the home page. It’s free, and you don’t have to register to get that information. Of course, Tire Rack would like to sell you your next set of tires. But even if you don’t get yours from the site, it’s a great place to do your research.

Buying online can save money. But there are some downsides to consider. First, shipping can take up to a week. Next, you’ll have to ensure an adult is home to sign for the tires (the driver won’t leave them without a signature or with a kid). Then, you’ll have to pack the tires into your vehicle and pay a local shop to mount them.

So here’s an online shopping tip: Try to find an seller that has arrangements with a local shop near you. That way the shop will accept the shipment and mount the tires for a set fee.

If you don’t want the hassle of buying tires online or you need them right away, shop at a local tire store. We prefer tire stores over warehouse clubs because the sales clerks know more about tires. Tell the salesperson your top priorities and your budget.

Next, pick out two or three tires that match your criteria. Then, ask the sales clerk to quote you “out-the-door” prices for each selection (cost of tires plus all taxes, lifetime mounting and balancing, tire pressure sensor rebuilding charges, and tire disposal costs). Most salespeople include the road hazard warranty cost in the out-the-door price. If you don’t want the warranty, say so upfront.

Replacing or adding a driveway to your home? The first step is finding a reputable contractor to do the job. The residential asphalt industry has more than its share of fly-by-nights. The only advice I can offer is to find one with references from homeowners who are still satisfied with their driveways after a decade or so. Assuming you find a good contractor, the rest should take care of itself.

The materials and techniques described here for a quality driveway are pretty simple. Discuss them with your potential contractor before signing on the dotted line, and then stay home to keep an eye on the actual installation to make sure you’re getting what you paid for.

Secrets of a Long-Lasting Driveway

Proper amount of slope

One of the main design objectives for a durable asphalt driveway is to provide enough slope for draining water off and away from the driveway. Water should never pond on the surface or next to the driveway where it will seep underneath to weaken the soil or cause frost heaving.

Well-compacted granular base

The main component of a long-lasting driveway is the underlying granular base. It must have the right thickness and composition. Base materials vary by region and can be crushed stone or “conbit” (recycled concrete and asphalt—it’s crushed and reused).

Crushed coarse materials like these have jagged surfaces, so they’ll compact and lock together in a tough, settle-resistant matrix. A binder like cement dust may be added to hold it all together. Coarse materials also drain water from under the driveway so ice won’t form and crack the asphalt surface.

Proper asphalt thickness

Once your old driveway has been torn out, you and the contractor should closely examine the existing base (the fill under the asphalt surface) and possibly remove or add material. Digging into the exposed base will tell you its type and thickness. Recommended thicknesses are 8 inches of base over clay soils or 4 inches over well-drained sandy soils. If your base is inadequate, it must be upgraded. Low bids may signal that a contractor isn’t prepared to install a good base. Ask the contractor about these details before you sign up.

Good asphalt compaction

Mechanical compaction of the base, subbase and asphalt is crucial for a long-lasting driveway. Ideally, the base should sit for about a week so that natural settling will augment the mechanical compaction. When compacting subbases, contractors will use heavy rollers (or even the tires of the earth-moving equipment) for large areas and plate compactors for smaller areas.

But when rolling out asphalt, heavy compacting equipment is needed. Select a contractor who has 1- to 3-ton rollers for compacting the asphalt itself. Edges are raked and formed to 45-degree angles, then packed with a hand tamper.

In most areas of the country, there are two options for the asphalt itself. The difference is the size of the aggregate (gravel filler) used. The most common mix for residential driveways has finer (1/2 inch or smaller) aggregate and thus forms a smoother surface. Coarser (3/4 inch or smaller) aggregate mixes are stronger but have a rougher finish.

Parking lots and roads are usually a coarser mix. Coarser mixes are also recommended for driveways with heavier traffic, such as RVs, large trucks and tractors. Both mixes cost about the same.

In most parts of the country, the asphalt laid over a properly prepared aggregate base should be 2 to 3 in. thick. If you opt for a 3-in. thick surface, you can use the coarse asphalt mix for a 2-inch thick bottom layer for strength and a 1-inch thick layer of the finer mix on the surface for a better appearance.

Most electric motors in our homes are sealed by the manufacturer, which means they don’t need oil or maintenance. But, every once in a while, you might come across one that is designed to be oiled, such as certain furnaces and pumps or older power tools like bench grinders. When you do find one of those, it’s important to know how to oil an electric motor correctly.

You can often tell if an electric motor is designed to be oiled if it has oil ports near the motor shaft above the bearings. If you find such a beast, don’t ignore it. “Regular maintenance can extend the lifespan of your electric motors,” says Shlomo Cherniak, owner of Cherniak Home Services. “Therefore, always check your devices’ manuals for specific oiling instructions and intervals.”

Here’s how to oil an electric motor and which oil to use.

How to Oil an Electric Motor

• Before you service any electric motor, first turn off the appliance and unplug it if possible (especially if the owner’s manual instructs to do so).
• Locate the oil ports and wipe them clean. “For something like a furnace or other parts of an HVAC system, look for oil ports, typically near the motor shaft,” says Melanie Powers, president at Goodberlet Home Services.
• Apply the oil. Typically, a few drops are all that are needed for small household motors.
• Wipe off excess oil to prevent it from collecting dust, and avoid over-oiling since that can clog the motor.
• Repeat annually (or as needed).

What Kind of Oil Do You Use for Electric Motors?

Most household electric motors call for a non-detergent all-in-one SAW 20 electric motor oil. But some motors might require various other kinds of grease specifically formulated for that machine, so refer to the appliance manual to find the correct oil.

“For example, hair trimmers with electric motors use a different viscosity lubricant than an electric garbage disposal motor does,” says Brandon Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration. “If you try to use one in place of the other, you will cause a burn-out of the motor, or worse.”

“The most common pitfall [to oiling an electric motor] is using the wrong type of oil,” says Cherniak. “Avoid automotive oils, as they are usually too thin and contain detergents that can damage the motor.” Be sure not to use automotive oil on electric motors, as it can dissolve insulation and fry the motor.

FAQ

Why do you have to use a specialized oil for electric motors?

Powers says it’s important to use the correct oil for electric motors to prevent buildup and because electric motors generate high heat temperatures, so you want an oil that can perform under such conditions.

Using the correct specialized oil also prolongs the life of the motor by reducing friction on the bearings, thus preventing wear. “Using oils with the wrong viscosity will cause the parts to abrade each other, and this friction contact causes heat, which then further degrades the oil and causes a runaway cycle,” says Walker.

Do all electric motors need oil?

No, not all electric motors need oil. Many electric motors have sealed bearings and are designed to be maintenance-free.

“For bearings that are intended to operate in contact with one another, then you likely won’t need oil at all,” says Walker. “For the kinds that do require it, then it must be a specialized formulation.”

Where are the most common electric motors around the house that need oil?

Most modern-day electric motors are sealed and don’t need to be oiled. But, depending on the make, model and age, some household electric motors that may need to be oiled include:

• HVAC systems
• Electric pumps
• Ceiling and other fans
• Older appliances
• Electric heaters
• Exhaust fan motors
• Refrigerators
• Trash compactors
• Washing machines
• Sewing machines
• Power tools, such as bench grinders

“Keep a log of which devices need oiling and record the dates when you last serviced them to keep up with them consistently,” says Cherniak.

About the Experts

• Melanie Powers is president at Goodberlet Home Services, a female-owned plumbing, construction, electrical and HVAC repair company, serving parts of Illinois and Indiana since 1982.
• Shlomo Cherniak owns Cherniak Home Services, a handyman service serving the Baltimore area for more than 10 years, offering services from installing kitchen cabinets to fixing leaky faucets and hanging pictures.
• Brandon Walker is a superintendent at ASAP Restoration in Tempe, Arizona. He has been in the construction industry for more than 20 years, starting as a teenager and working his way up to running his own company.

While brick is a long-lasting, low-maintenance building material, it is not indestructible. Over time, weather and exposure can break bricks down. “Many people think of masonry as timeless and permanent,” Ray Wysack from Batchelder and Collins says. This leads to the misconception that you only have to keep the brick clean.” The reality is that bricks must be regularly inspected for deterioration or damage. A common issue to look for is spalling, which occurs when a brick disintegrates and crumbles apart.

During an annual inspection, I discovered my chimney had a few spalling bricks. After remedying the underlying moisture issue, I was able to promptly repair it following the steps in this article.

Read on to learn how to identify spalling bricks, how to prevent it from happening and how to repair it if it does. Also, find tips from seasoned masonry pros — Wysack and Hind Domanowski from Priddy Chimney Solutions — on how to deal with spalling bricks.

What Is Spalling Brick?

Spalling is a type of brick deterioration where the surface flakes off and reveals a rough, uneven layer. It can have a powdery, dusty texture or have missing chunks of brick if the problem progresses. “To the touch, a spalled brick will feel brittle and crumbly,” Domanowski says.

What Causes Spalling Brick?

“Spalling occurs when the masonry structure has absorbed a significant amount of moisture, usually because the brick has deteriorated or mortar joints have been damaged,” Domanowski says. In colder climates, this moisture freezes and expands, fracturing the brick over and over until the brick disintegrates.

Spalling happens in milder climates, too, as prolonged exposure to moisture softens brick and leads to deterioration. “Freeze-thaw cycles exacerbate spalling but are not necessary for the condition to occur,” Wysack says.

If you have a single spalled brick, this is likely a soft brick that was unintentionally installed. However, several or many failing bricks indicate a water intrusion problem. This was the case with my chimney.

Occasionally, spalling can also be the result of cleaning with a high pressure washer, salt exposure or incorrect mortar installation.

Is Spalling Brick Dangerous?

Yes. Spalling brick is not structurally sound and can lead to collapse if the problem is widespread.

“We recommend that spalling brick be addressed as soon as possible to help prevent a ‘domino effect’ where the compromised brick allows further moisture intrusion into the structure, thereby degrading adjacent bricks,” Domanowski says.

How To Prevent Spalling Brick

The first line of defense to prevent spalling brick is an annual masonry inspection to identify any developing issues. “Catching minor issues early can help avoid thousands of dollars in repairs,” Domanowski says.

In addition, follow these prevention methods:

• Provide proper drainage, weep holes and coping for brick retaining walls.
• Use a low-pressure setting when power washing.
• Regularly apply a breathable masonry sealant. “These slow moisture absorption and hinder the formation of mold and mildew,” Domanowski says.
• Install a rain cap on your chimney.
• Direct gutter downspouts away from brick foundations or walls to ensure proper drainage.
• Prevent moss and climbing plants from taking root on brick surfaces. “Vegetation will erode your masonry,” Domanowski says.

How To Replace Spalling Brick

While replacing a few spalled bricks is a manageable DIY project, the challenge lies in blending the new work with the old. “Matching the mortar as well as the brick will be difficult,” Wysack says. “There is a steep learning curve to do a job that blends well.”

For visible repairs on the front of your home, Wysack recommends hiring an experienced pro.

1. Remove existing mortar and brick

Use a hand chisel and a hammer, or a demolition hammer with a chisel bit to carefully remove vertical mortar joints. Cut horizontal mortar joints using a cut-off saw with a diamond blade. Always wear a respirator mask and goggles when cutting mortar as silica dust is hazardous.

Once the mortar is removed, pull the damaged brick away and discard. Use a leaf blower or vacuum to thoroughly remove dust and dirt from the opening.

2. Replace mortar and brick

Mix mortar following product directions. Use a trowel to place a small amount of mortar on the bottom of the opening. Lay the new brick onto the mortar. Use your trowel to move the brick until you attain consistent joints and face depth with neighboring bricks.

3. Finish the mortar joint

Use a grout bag to add mortar to the remaining joints. “This allows you to insert the mortar into the back of the brick and avoid having it stain the face,” Wysack says.

Let the mortar set slightly, then with a masonry slicker (narrow hand tool), press the mortar into the surrounding mortar joints. “If the mortar is not compressed before tooling it will not be nearly as strong or resilient,” Wysack says.

4. Tool the mortar

Test the mortar’s dryness by pressing it with your finger. If your finger stays clean, Wysack says it’s ready to be tooled. Use a jointing tool to smooth the mortar to match the existing tooling pattern. Wait a few minutes, then scrape away any excess mortar, taking care not to smear any on the brick face.

5. Let the mortar cure, then clean the brick

After a day, the mortar will be cured. Any mortar on the brick face can be cleaned without disturbing the repair.

FAQ

Is spalling brick covered by insurance?

No, spalling brick caused by weather, aging or poor home maintenance practices will not be covered by homeowner insurance.

Can you render over spalling bricks?

Yes, you can render over spalling bricks, but it’s not recommended. “Rendering or ‘parging’ over spalled brick runs the risk of trapping moisture in the bricks,” Domanowski says. “This leads the rendered layer and underlying brick to crack, exactly the outcome most would want to avoid.”

Render also cannot be removed, so total replacement is necessary in the event of failure. A better idea is to replace damaged bricks instead.

About the Experts

• Hind Domanowski leads the Priddy Chimney Solutions‘ sweep and masonry teams. With over 17 years of experience, she has a vast knowledge of the available masonry types and designs in the mid-Atlantic region, as well as a keen sense of how best to rescue troubled structures.
• Ray Wysack works in Outside Sales for Batchelder and Collins, a masonry, hardscape and veneer distributor in Virginia. Before this position, he was a mason for 15 years, specializing in repair and restoration.

During my 50-plus year career as a General Motors and ASE Master Technician, vocational educator and vehicle owner, I have repaired or replaced countless heating, air conditioning, and ventilation systems’ (HVAC) blower motors, blower motor resistors, resistor modules, fan cages, relays, switches, controllers, control modules and sensors.

One of the easiest, most common (and usually the simplest to diagnose) heater blower repairs was replacing the blower motor resister module. Ahead, information from experienced ASE Master automotive technicians will help you get your blower motor working at all speeds.

How Does a Car Heater Fan Work?

Voltage powers the car heater fan blower motor, but the current drives motor speed. In a simple heater fan circuit, the power (voltage) is fed from the junction block, or ignition switch, which is connected to the battery, then through a fuse, to the dashboard multi-speed fan switch. The speed fan switch then directs the voltage to the resistor module.

Depending on the amount of air you want coming from the ducts, usually there are four speeds to choose from. The resistor module raises or lowers the current being sent to the blower motor, and the air starts to flow as a soft breeze (low speed) or driving wind (high speed).

Air passing over the heater core warms up your car on frigid mornings. Conversely, air going through the AC evaporator coil on blazing summer days cools down your vehicle’s interior.

Why Is My Car Heater Fan Only Working on One Speed?

ASE Master Technician and certified automotive technology instructor Bill Kirkpatrick recommends “always check the fuses first,” but said, “the most likely cause would be a defective resistor in the blower motor circuit.” Kirkpatrick added that “a defective [fan speed] switch or related wiring could cause only one speed,” though this is less likely.

Most car manufacturers use different rated resistors that allows you to run the blower motor at different speeds in series (or daisy chained) like old-fashioned Christmas tree lights, which means that when one of the bulbs burns out, none of the other bulbs will light.

When one or more of these resistors burn out (like the Christmas lights), you’re usually left with only one heater blower motor speed—high. That’s because higher current that powers high blower motor speed is usually supplied through a separate leg of the blower motor fan circuit and a heavy-duty relay.

What is a blower motor resistor module?

Resistors are just that: they resist the flow of electrons. “Depending on the blower motor fan speed switch position, the blower motor resistor module uses internal resistors that increase or decrease the amount of current (flow of electrons) to the blower motor,” says Joe Simes, ASE and Toyota Master Technician.

On older vehicles, blower motor resistor modules used different diameters and lengths of coiled wire as resistors to adjust current flow. Newer vehicle resistor modules use transistors to control current flow. Simes added, “Transistors allow for several different fan speeds, but the concept is exactly the same.

Consequently, Simes noted, “Modern/automatic car climate control systems having digital displays may have the blower resistors (transistors) integrated into the blower switch.” He recommends leaving this fix to the pros.

How To Fix a Blower Motor Module

Purchase a new resistor module at the auto parts store. The resistor module is easy to fix, and most are inexpensive to replace. However, depending on your vehicle, cost can vary greatly, from $25 to over $250.

Blower motor modules are usually installed in the heater ductwork, usually under the dash or under the hood and near the blower motor. It’s placed in the ductwork near the fan for a reason: the fan’s air moving across the resistor helps keep it cool. Traditionally held in place by two or three small screws, or spring retaining clip, look for a square-shaped or rectangular component having a wiring harness containing several wires connected to it.

Replacing the blower motor resistor module

• Locate the module (refer to a service manual to locate yours if necessary).
• Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.
• Carefully inspect and disconnect the wiring harness.
  • Simes notes, “Check that the wiring close. Many (defective blower motor resistor modules) will have burned up wiring to the resistor. Some resistors come with (a) new wiring (harness) and should be installed exactly the way the manufacturer recommends.”
• Remove the module’s mounting screws or release the spring retaining clip.
• Slide the module out of the duct.
• Check the ducts to see if there is anything blocking air from flowing over the resistor.
• Clean wire harness terminals if corroded, and clean away the old mounting gasket (if there is one).
• Reverse the procedure to install the module.
• Reconnect the battery cable.
• Test fan operation and your car heater blower motor will be back in business.

PRO TIPS:

• Depending on the working space around the blower motor resistor module, it may be easier to remove and install the new module with the wire harness attached.
• Now would be the perfect time to replace the cabin air filter.

FAQ

What causes a blower motor resistor module to go bad?

Blower motor resistor modules are electrical devices—and on some vehicles are constantly on—and they can, and do, simply fail.

Kirkpatrick says “improper air flow across this resistor” from dirt or debris in the heater duct, a missing resistor module mounting gasket, damaged heater blower motor fan cage or “a (shorted) blower motor drawing too many amps would also cause premature resistor failure.”

If the blower motor resistor module shows corrosion or the wire harness shows signs of damage, discoloration or melting from a blower motor drawing too much current (Amps), it may be time to replace the blower motor or see the pros to diagnose the problem.

Even if you have a heavy-duty, fused, Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM), the current draw of a bad heater blower motor will exceed the DVOMs usual 10-amp fused protection limit. DVOMs are a great tool to keep in your toolbox when doing electrical work in your home or car. There are dozens to choose from, from heavy-duty type.

About The Experts

• Bill Kirkpatrick has spent over 50 years in the auto repair industry and vocational education. He is an ASE and Volkswagen Master Technician, was a shop owner, and dealership service manager. Bill retired as a Pennsylvania Department of Education (PDE) certified automotive technology and small engine instructor and is also a PennDOT certified emissions and safety inspection instructor and inspector.
• Joe Simes has over 20 years of experience as an ASE and Toyota Master Technician. Joe is a PennDOT certified emissions and safety inspection instructor and inspector, and PDE certified automotive technology instructor at North Montco Technical Career Center in Lansdale, PA.

Resources

• General Motors, Product Service Training Manual: Specialized Electronics Training (Series Circuits pp 2-1 to 2-7, Transistors pp 7-1 to 7-8).