When we moved in, our home had a coat closet near the front door that we never used. Over the years, it just started to fill with a bunch of junk, and I knew I could make something more functional in that space. I wanted to make a drop zone for all my kids’ stuff. I needed three cubbies, one for each kid. I also wanted a deep bench and space under each cubby to put a large basket for each kid’s shoes and other items.

(You can watch the first part of the project here, on Kyle’s Instagram account.)

I started by removing the door and then demoed the existing wall to open the entire closet space up from the floor to the ceiling.

Once I had the closet opened up, I removed the existing flooring and installed new flooring to match what was in the rest of the house.

At that point, I had a blank slate to work with. I couldn’t really make a plan until the full space was opened up and accessible. After gathering the measurements, I designed the actual build and came up with a cut list of all the pieces I would need to complete the assembly. To cut costs on materials and make the project more budget-friendly, I used big sheets of 4x8ft MDF. I used cutlistoptimizer.com to plan all the cuts. I like that website because it plots all the cuts on the materials you have on hand to minimize waste as well as the number of cuts needed. You can even put in scrap piece sizes to see what you can get out of those smaller leftover scraps. I ended up needing two big sheets of MDF ($45 each) to make all the cuts.

I also picked up a half sheet of red oak plywood to make the bench top ($50 at my local lumber yard).

Once I made all the cuts, I was ready to assemble the unit. I made it in two parts. The lower box/bench base had an open bottom and two dividers to make the three cubbies. I placed that in the space first, then I used leftover underlayment to create a template to cut the red oak into a benchtop. Once I placed the bench top on the lower box/cabinet, I added an extra 1-inch wide strip of material to the bottom lip of the bench overhang, which made the bench appear to be 1.5” thick. I used edge banding to cover the raw plywood edge and make the bench look like a solid slab of wood, much like butcher block. I stained the bench top with “Dark Walnut” Watco Danish Oil ($13), which sealed and stained the wood to give it a darker appearance.

I installed MDF side panels to create the illusion of a full cabinet, then I used a panel of faux shiplap ($28) for the back of the cubbies, and then I installed MDF dividers to create three individual cubbies.

Next, I mounted a large upper box on the wall above the three cubbies to make an upper storage area. This was just extra open space for additional storage. Finally, I installed a piece of MDF at the top of the unit to close the gap between the ceiling. I thought about making this panel hinged to allow access to the space, but I figured since it was so high up, it would be impractical and I just sealed it up. I used PVC base cap molding ($15) to create a picture frame box molding detail to make the top of the cabinet more aesthetic. I also installed a piece of crown molding I got from my local lumber yard ($10) across the top of the cabinet to cover the seam along the ceiling.

Once the cabinet was fully built, I trimmed all the seams, faces, and edges with various MDF trim pieces (about $50).

Since this was all constructed with raw MDF, it needed to be primed before painting to ensure even coverage and good paint adhesion. I used KILZ brand all-purpose primer ($24) to prime the entire cabinet. Anything that was going to get painted, got primed first.

After the primer cured, I lightly sanded everything with a 150 grit sanding sponge ($9) to give me a nice smooth finish to paint on.

I used Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel paint ($45) in a satin finish. I like this particular paint for all cabinetry projects because it levels out very nicely, leaving no brush strokes for a spray-quality finish.

I used a combination of a Zibra angle brush ($14), a Zibra triangle trim and corner brush ($10), and a 4-inch high-density foam roller, which can be purchased in a kit ($15) that comes with the foam roller, the roller handle, and the paint tray.

When it comes to painting cabinets, the goal is thin, even coats of paint, and it is important to follow the directions on the paint can to ensure proper dry and recoat times. I did three coats of paint, letting each coat dry for 24 hours before doing the next coat. I also sanded with a 220 grit sanding sponge ($9) between coats to make sure everything stayed nice and smooth.

Once the paint was dry, I installed three backpack hooks ($6 each) and three water bottle hooks ($3 each). I also purchased three wicker baskets that fit in each lower cubby ($35 each) and four fabric storage boxes for the upper storage area ($10 each).

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A post shared by Kyle Ortiz (@kyledidit)

The entire project took about six days, and I am so happy with the results. It is so much more functional than the coat closet, and it’s the perfect space for my kids to drop all their stuff as they go in and out to various activities.

For videos and more details about this project, visit my Instagram.

How I Built My Custom Drop Zone

1. Plan and Measure
   1. Measure the opened space and design the drop zone.
   2. Use Cutlistoptimizer.com to plan cuts for MDF sheets and minimize waste.
2. Cut Materials
   1. Cut MDF sheets into required sizes using a miter saw.
   2. Cut red oak plywood for the bench top.
3. Assemble the Base Unit
   1. Construct the lower box with an open bottom and two dividers for three cubbies.
   2. Place the lower box in the space.
   3. Use underlayment to create a template and cut the red oak for the bench top.
   4. Add a 1-inch wide strip to the bottom lip of the bench for a thicker appearance.
   5. Use edge banding to cover raw edges and stain the bench with Danish oil.
4. Build the Upper Storage
   1. Install MDF side panels to simulate a full cabinet.
   2. Use faux shiplap for the back of the cubbies.
   3. Install MDF dividers to create individual cubbies.
   4. Mount a large upper box on the wall for extra storage.
   5. Install an MDF piece at the top to close the gap to the ceiling.
   6. Add picture frame box molding and crown molding for aesthetics.
5. Trim and Finish
   1. Trim all seams, faces, and edges with various MDF trim pieces.
   2. Prime the entire unit with KILZ all-purpose primer.
   3. Sand everything lightly with a 150 grit sanding sponge.
6. Paint
   1. Use Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel paint in a satin finish.
   2. Apply thin, even coats, sanding with a 220 grit sanding sponge between coats.
   3. Allow each coat to dry for 24 hours.
7. Install Accessories
   1. Install three backpack hooks and three water bottle hooks.
   2. Place wicker baskets in each lower cubby.
   3. Add fabric storage boxes to the upper storage area.

Final touches

• Inspect the entire unit for any necessary touch-ups or adjustments.

This custom drop zone is a great way to make a functional and organized space for your kids’ items.

Tools Required:

• Stud finder
• Level
• Tape measure
• Miter saw
• Nail gun
• Sandpaper
• Paintbrush or roller
• Screwdriver
• Drill

Materials Required:

• • 4×8 ft MDF sheets (2)
  • Half sheet of red oak plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Primer (KILZ brand)
  • Paint (Behr Urethane Alkyd Enamel, satin finish)
  • Nails
  • Edge banding
  • Danish oil (Dark Walnut)
  • Faux shiplap panel
  • PVC base cap molding
  • Crown molding
  • Backpack hooks (3)
  • Water bottle hooks (3)
  • Wicker baskets (3)
  • Fabric storage boxes (4)
  • MDF trim pieces

Have you ever noticed that there are two holes where your screen door’s pneumatic closer attaches to the door itself? It’s not a mistake someone made at the manufacturing plant. Those holes are there for winter and summer adjustments, and they’ll keep your storm door from banging shut or remaining open when you lower or raise the glass panel for the season.

Adjusting your door for the winter

As the mercury starts to drop, it’s time to close the glass panel on your storm door. When you do that, be sure to place the connecting pin in the front hole of the closer tube (closest to the door bracket). This increases the closing pressure on the door in the last few inches of travel to ensure that the door latch snaps into the catch. If you don’t adjust the pin, the door won’t shut all the way and you’ll have a drafty house, not to mention a higher heating bill.

Adjusting your storm door for summer

When the screens are down and the glass is up, place the connecting pin in the rear hole of the closer tube (farthest from the door bracket). Now, instead of slamming shut, the door will slow down as it nears the door catch.

Adjusting the closer

Efflorescence is a white material that appears on brick as a powdery mass of mineral. Efflorescence occurs when moisture moves through concrete or other masonry. The moisture picks up minerals, carries them to the surface of the masonry and leaves them behind in the form of tiny crystals on the surface as the moisture evaporates. The minerals themselves do no harm. You can simply brush them away.

Is Efflorescence Bad For Brick?

A small amount of efflorescence is common. But if the amount of efflorescence on your chimney is excessive, it may cause concern.

Some efflorescence could be caused by rainfall soaking into the brick. But more likely—and more serious—the problem is moisture in warm air from inside the house condensing on the chimney’s interior during cold weather. Or, even more alarming, your flue liner is cracked or broken and moist combustion gases from your furnace and water heater are leaking out onto the cold brick and condensing. This is a bad condition that will cause rapid brick-and-mortar deterioration.

What To Do If You See Efflorescence

We recommend that you have your chimney inspected by a licensed heating contractor or certified chimney sweep before the heating season begins this year. Either one will tell you whether you must install a new chimney flue or liner or point to any other moisture source that may be causing the excessive efflorescence.

Who Built It Better? This month, At Home with Family Handyman is ready to answer that question with a fun new competition series where DIYers go head-to-head to show off their DIY skills. Who Built It Better? premiers Saturday, September 7, at 8 p.m. ET, with fresh episodes streaming weekly, completely free, and exclusively on At Home with Family Handyman.

In Who Built It Better?, we dive into the world of DIY home projects, where two builders take on the same project but with their own unique approaches. Whether it’s crafting a custom bookshelf, building a backyard deck, or creating a stylish piece of furniture, these talented builders will showcase their skills, creativity, and problem-solving abilities in a head-to-head battle.

Each episode will guide viewers through a series of projects, offering expert insights and highlighting the pros and cons of each method. Contestants are judged on budget, quality, ease of build and, most importantly, the fun factor. The suspense builds as we analyze the results, comparing craftsmanship, efficiency, and overall design to determine the ultimate winner of the competition.

The first episode of the series is all about backyards. And the clash of creativity kicks off with an epic battle of two firepits.

In one corner, we have “From the Ground Up,” who starts from scratch—clearing the land, laying down a concrete foundation, and building a custom brick firepit, topped with stylish flat stones. It’s a labor of love with the whole family pitching in!

In the other corner, “Patio Pit Stop” takes on the ultimate time challenge: building a firepit in just 30 minutes! Using a pre-existing stone patio, matching stones, and a pre-made metal ring, he speeds through the process, proving that quick can still mean quality.

Both firepits are perfect for any backyard, but which method will reign supreme? Watch the sparks fly as these DIYers battle it out. Which one will inspire your next project? You decide!

And that’s just the beginning!

After that, you’ll see DIYers from across the country compete in building outdoor benches, garden sheds and cornhole boards. Together, it’s four projects and four showdowns that will inspire you to transform your own backyard into the family fun zone.

In the episodes that follow we’ll show you builders tackling amazing woodworking projects, bathroom makeovers, storage solutions and more.

Of course, Who Built It Better? is more than just a competition show; it’s an inspiration for DIY enthusiasts, offering valuable tips and ideas for your own home projects. Don’t miss a single episode of this engaging series. Tune in every Saturday at 8 p.m. ET on At Home with Family Handyman and find out, Who Built It Better?

At Home with Family Handyman is streaming now on Samsung TV Plus, The Roku Channel, DIRECTV, Sling FreeStream, fuboTV, XUMOPlay, Plex, and the Family Handyman app, available on iOS, Apple TV, Android, AndroidTV, FireTV and Roku devices. And if you don’t see your preferred streaming option on the list, additional streaming platforms will be available soon. 

Car insurance rates are more than 22% higher now than they were a year ago. That means if you were paying $150 a month, you’re now up to $183, and you’re not alone. In fact, most of us are paying so much more for car insurance that it’s currently one of the biggest drivers of inflation.

“Even wage increases won’t prevent many people from feeling the squeeze on their budgets,” says Maya Afilalo, Senior Editor and Analyst for AutoInsurance.com.

Here’s why rates have gone up so much, and some tips from our experts on how to lower your bill without jeopardizing your peace of mind.

Why Are Car Insurance Rates Going Up?

Insurance companies are paying out more in claims, which means they have to charge higher premiums to stay profitable. But it’s a bit more complex than that, and here’s why.

Accidents Are On the Rise

There are more accidents than there were a few years ago, and many are more severe, in part because we’re driving bigger vehicles, and road rage and reckless driving are on the rise. “Distracted driving has also driven accident rates to new highs,” says Ezra Peterson, Senior Director of Insurance at Way.com. “More accidents, plus more expensive accidents, means higher premiums.”

Severe Weather Events Are Growing

Due to the climate crises, the frequency of catastrophic weather events has increased, leading to more vehicle damage from floods, hail, fire and other natural disasters, says Afilalo.

Parts and Repair Labor Have Spiked

The price of repairs, auto parts and new and used vehicles have all risen during the last few years. Some of this was due to pandemic-related supply chain issues, plus a vehicle shortage. “While supply chain issues have mostly receded, the increased cost of parts and labor translates directly into higher repair costs,” says Peterson.

Car Technology Has Advanced

Today’s cars have more tech, like integrated safety devices, parking sensors and crumple zones. What was once a fender bender fixable with a little body work can now cost thousands of dollars in electronics and specialized labor to repair, says Peterson. This has caused the average payout to rise 82% over the past decade.

Medical Expenses Are Rising

Rising healthcare costs means higher payouts. It’s also becoming more common for medical expenses to breach policy limits, which translates to higher administrative rates from lengthy court processes.

Carrying Costs Are Expanding

The time from the opening of the claim to its closing has stretched, partly due to staffing limitations on the claims side and labor shortages on the repair side, says Peterson. “Claim files are taking longer, which has its ancillary costs in rental and substitute auto coverages, storage fees, etc.”

Factors That Impact Car Insurance Rates

Some factors insurance companies take into account when determining your premium include:

Driving Profile

This includes your age, years of driving experience, driving violations, previous insurance claims and, often, credit score. Factors like being a teenager or having a DUI significantly increase rates.

Location

Drivers in urban areas often have higher premiums due to higher accident and theft rates. Areas prone to severe weather and uninsured drivers also have elevated rates, says Afilalo.

Coverage Choices

Lower deductibles and higher coverage limits mean higher rates, but they also mean more financial protection if you do have an accident. “Balancing these choices depends on your financial situation and how much risk you’re willing to assume,” says Afilalo.

Vehicle Choices

Your choice of vehicle directly affects your premium, though the old wive’s tale that red cars cost more is a fallacy, says Peterson. What does matter is the cost of repair, along with accident statistics. “A vehicle with specialized systems, rare trim packages, high theft rates, and electric vehicles will likely be more to insure than a typical sedan, all due to loss probability and cost to repair,” he says.

Tips to Lower My Car Insurance Rate

• Shop around for new providers.
• Increase your deductible.
• Opt into a usage-based insurance program or telematics discount.
• Bundle home and auto policies with the same provider.
• Drop non-required coverages.
• Lower liability limits.

FAQ

What is an average car insurance rate?

Car insurance premiums vary widely because there are so many factors, but the national average is currently hovering around $2,000 to $2,500 for full coverage.

How can I compare car insurance rates?

You can get quotes directly from insurance companies. Afilabo recommends getting at least three quotes, from both major national providers and smaller regional ones. Or, you can a work with an independent insurance agency, which will do the legwork of getting multiple quotes for you.

Is car insurance legally required?

Yes, liability auto insurance, which covers damages to other vehicles if you cause an accident, is mandatory in every state except for New Hampshire. Bodily injury liability, which pays for the injuries of others if you cause an accident, is also required in every state except for Florida and New Jersey. Beyond that, in most states coverage to repair your vehicle and medical expenses is not a legal requirement, but often a wise idea, say Afilalo and Peterson.

About the Experts

• Maya Afilalo is Senior Editor and Analyst for AutoInsurance.com. She has more than 10 years of experience in research and communications, helping customers sort through auto insurance information.
• Ezra Peterson is Senior Director of Insurance at Way.com. He has more than 20 years of experience in the insurance industry.

Sources

• AP News: “Surging auto insurance rates squeeze drivers, fuel inflation“

A gazebo can instantly transform your backyard scene and boost your resale value. Plus, they offer practical advantages, like additional shade and shelter from the rain. From barbecues to birthday parties, the right gazebo provides a designated, covered area for gatherings.

If you’ve shopped for gazebos, you know there are endless options when it comes to materials, shape and size. Generally, if you want a more permanent fixture, you should go with a metal or wooden gazebo. If you want something more portable and can move from one spot in the yard to another, a soft-top gazebo might be the way to go (they’re also typically more affordable).

We selected this Sunjoy Hardtop Octagon Gazebo to install as a permanent fixture in our backyard. Below is our full review of the Sunjoy Gazebo, from delivery and assembly to product details and more.

What is a Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo?

Sunjoy is an outdoor furniture and gazebo brand founded in 2001. For over 20 years, the brand has manufactured high-quality outdoor products designed to last for years. They offer free delivery on all orders and a 30-day return window from the original delivery date. Sunjoy makes a variety of gazebo styles, including hard-top, soft-top, pop-up, wall-mounted and more. Sunjoy also offers gazebos in various materials, including metal, wood and aluminum.

The Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo we installed in our backyard is made of metal, specifically steel for the roof and galvanized pipe for the legs. It is octagonal and features a double-tiered top for ventilation and wind resistance. The entire structure sports an aesthetic matte black finish. It’s perfect for expanding your entertainment area outside and is a permanent structure if you anchor the legs.

Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo Product Features

Here’s a look at some of the standout features, good and bad, you can expect if you choose to purchase this Sunjoy gazebo.

Materials

The Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo features all-steel construction. Specifically, the roof is made of steel, while the legs are made of galvanized pipe. Sunjoy offers similar hard-top gazebos with metal roofs and wooden legs if you want a gazebo that will blend in on top of a deck or other wooden structure.

The steel structure is very sturdy and weather-resistant. The gazebo we tested has faced Midwestern winds, storms and heat, and it still looks as good as new. Anchoring the gazebo legs in the ground helps keep it in place during severe weather, too.

Size

The hard-top octagon gazebo has a diameter of about 15 feet, and its legs measure about 6-1/2 feet tall and 4-1/2 feet apart. The entire structure stands about 11 feet tall and weighs over 500 pounds. It can withstand 50 MPH winds and over 4,000 pounds of snow. Talk about sturdy! Underneath the gazebo, you can easily fit a standard-size picnic table or a few lounge chairs.

Design

The gazebo’s two-tiered roof allows airflow while shielding off weather by protecting what’s underneath it from UV rays and allowing wind to pass through the top. The built-in dual rails let you easily hang mosquito netting or curtains, and the ceiling hook lets you hang suspended lighting. The durable matte black coating is made to withstand sun, rain and snow while providing a modern look.

How We Tested It

The Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo was delivered to our house via semi-truck. It was a pallet delivery, which the drivers dropped in the front yard. We did not have the option of getting it delivered to the backyard, where we wanted it. I recommend contacting Sunjoy’s customer support team if you order a large, heavy gazebo and want it delivered to a designated area. They might be able to accommodate you. I did not do that, and the delivery weighed over 500 pounds, so I could not move the pallet alone.

I did not anticipate the size and weight of the item, because when I was shopping for a gazebo, I originally had selected a smaller, lighter gazebo from Sunjoy. However, I was sent the larger octagon gazebo instead. After realizing the size of the gazebo, I knew I’d need help moving and assembling it.

The instructions recommended a team of five people, which I did not have available. So, I used Thumbtack to find a construction pro to move, assemble and anchor the gazebo in the backyard. Living in the Midwest, I needed to anchor the gazebo, especially since I was having it installed during storm season. I didn’t want to risk strong winds damaging the gazebo or its surroundings.

I took many bids from different construction pros for the project. In my area, the most affordable rate was $1,750 for the entire job. However, the cheaper rate came at an additional, unexpected cost. The job was done poorly—concrete was thrown onto the fence and left in the yard, and the concrete used to anchor the gazebo’s posts was laid inconsistently and far above the grass.

That said, the gazebo was moved and assembled quickly, looks level, and is very sturdy. If you have the means, I’d recommend hiring vetted pros to assemble and anchor your hard-top gazebo.

Additionally, because the gazebo I was sent was larger than I expected, it did not fit on our patio. So, we had to assemble it adjacent to the patio in a grassy area. We haven’t entirely decided how to use that space, but we plan to either extend the patio or install some other kind of outdoor flooring and make that an outdoor dining area.

While the installation process was a headache, the product is fantastic. It’s a large, sturdy gazebo that has already held up against numerous storms. The dimensions are true to those listed in the product description, and the matte black finish looks sleek and high quality. If you’re serious about revamping your outdoor space, Sunjoy consistently produces gazebos of excellent quality.

FAQ

How do you anchor a Sunjoy gazebo to concrete?

Sunjoy gazebos already have holes in their feet so that you can secure them to a concrete surface with a bolt. I opted to pour new concrete around the legs to keep them in place, since I assembled the structure on grass.

What is the lifespan of a gazebo?

Most metal gazebos are resistant to rust thanks to galvanization and/or a weather-resistant coating, and can withstand severe weather. If properly secured, they can last up to 15 years.

What Others Have to Say

The Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo has a five-star rating, and reviewers also include pictures of assembled gazebos. Reviewers note the overall quality of the materials, how carefully parts were packaged for delivery and the speedy delivery times. It took reviewers six hours to a day and a half to fully assemble the gazebo, and all reviewers used at least two people and equipment for assembly. Buyers also commented on the scarce instructions, including very few words but many pictures. Reviewers also recommend using a screw gun with metric sockets to put together the parts.

Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo vs. Sunjoy Outdoor Softtop Gazebo

If you want an octagonal gazebo but are on a tighter budget, consider this Outdoor Softop Gazebo. It has the same shape as the Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo but retails for a fraction of the price. It’s also 11 by 13 feet, so it’s a bit smaller than the 15-by-15-foot gazebo we tested. The Outdoor Softtop Gazebo has high customer ratings and the same durable structure as the hardtop one. It includes a ventilated top, ceiling hook, and mesh netting to keep bugs out.

Sunjoy sells a variety of soft-top gazebos. While metal gazebos are more durable, longer-lasting and weather-resistant, soft-top gazebos also have perks. They are usually easier to assemble and move and are often less permanent. Additionally, soft-top gazebos typically cost much less than their hard-top counterparts.

Final Verdict

If you’re looking for a top-notch, hard-top gazebo, then Sunjoy is a great place to start shopping. Sunjoy’s vast inventory and commitment to crafting high-quality gazebos puts it ahead of the competition. While you may have to consider hiring professional assembly—depending on the size and type of gazebo you buy and how you want it installed—you can count on Sunjoy to deliver on quality. If opting for a hard-top gazebo over a soft-top gazebo, we recommend anchoring it securely to keep it in place.

Where to Buy the Sunjoy Outdoor Hardtop Gazebo

To shop the model we tested, head over to Sunjoy. The 15-foot octagon gazebo retails for $3,240. You can also shop for other Sunjoy hard-top models on Amazon.

When I first laid eyes on a track saw, I thought, “I have a table saw. I have a straightedge to guide my circular saw. Why would I spend $500 (or more) on one of these contraptions?” I was sure it was another tool gimmick for suckers. Then I talked to track saw owners, from cabinetmakers and flooring installers to trim carpenters and remodelers. Every single one of them told me that buying a track saw was a smart move. Now I own one, too.

A track saw is similar to your framing saw—the way a Porsche is similar to a dump truck. It’s engineered to be smooth and precise rather than rugged, and you’ll feel the difference the first time you pull the trigger.

You push, the blade plunges

Unlike your circular saw, this has no clumsy blade guard to fight. On the DeWalt and Festool, a riving knife follows the blade, reducing kickback and blade-pinching

Precision guidance system

Unlike a straightedge, the rail won’t let the saw veer off course. Adjustment knobs fine-tune the fit between the saw’s shoe and the track, so there’s zero slop.

Accurate adjustments

All three models feature easy-to-read scales, solid depth stops, and front and rear bevel locks. Forget the ballpark settings on your circular saw; with a track saw, what you set is what you get.

No-slip track

Those sticky rubber strips on the bottom of the track don’t slip; there’s no need to waste time clamping down the track in most situations—even when trimming doors. Cutting clampless is scary initially, but you’ll learn to trust the sticky strips. For those rare times when you need them, get clamps that lock into the track.

Dust collection that really works

The shroud on a track saw doesn’t just enclose the blade; it also creates an effective dust trap. Add a vacuum hose and you can do things you wouldn’t dream of with any other saw.

Video: How to Cut Straight With a Circular Saw

Exact track alignment

Just align the track with your marks and you’re ready to cut. The plastic edge shows you precisely where the blade will cut. No test cuts, no double checking, no guesswork. Again and again, track saw owners told me, “I’ve never screwed up a cut with this saw.”

Nice for tight spaces

A track saw can make big cuts in a small space. If you had to, you could slice up a full sheet of plywood in an 8 x 10 foot room. Unlike with a table saw, there’s no need for infeed or outfeed space. A track saw is also a space saver in your truck or van.

Easy to move

A track saw does most of what a table saw does, but moving between job sites is much easier because it fits under your arm. Safer, too: Carrying a track saw, you’re less likely to bang up door casings or wreck your back. Plus, you can call Mom while you load up your truck.

Cut long miters

With a miter saw, a table saw or even a panel saw, the length and angle of the cut are limited. Not so with a track saw. You’ll get an accurate miter no matter how long or how steep the angle.

There is one downside, however. Unlike those other saws, a track saw doesn’t have a built-in miter gauge, so setting up miter cuts can be slow. If you do lots of long miters, you might want to spend $50 to $100 on a miter gauge that locks onto the track.

Saw cut comparison

I made test cuts with track saws and a top-of-the-line cabinet saw. Whether the material was solid wood, plywood or MDF, the track saw cuts were just as smooth as the table saw cuts.

To test for tear-out, I added a circular saw to the contest and cut melamine. The track saws did the best, producing almost perfect cuts, with only a few tiny chips on the top of the waste piece. The table saw left tiny chips on the face-down side. The circular saw did just what you’d expect.

A finished cut the first time

To avoid wrestling heavy sheets across a table saw, many of us perform a two-act play: We rough-cut with a circular saw, then make finish cuts on a table saw. With a track saw, you can skip the second act. The first cuts will be your final cuts—every bit as straight, smooth and accurate as you’ll get on a table saw.

Connect the tracks, cut for miles

The ends of the tracks are dead square, so you can lock them together for super-straight, super-long cuts. (I heard from a gym-floor installer who lays up to 100 ft. of track for a single cut!) The connectors cost about $17 each. One connector is good, but two is better. Most rails fall into one of two general categories: long enough for a 4-ft. cut (about $100) or long enough for an 8-ft. cut (about $200).

FAQ

Is my table saw obsolete?

Nope. If you get a track saw, your table saw may get some long vacations, but it won’t go into retirement. Cutting small parts with a track saw is clumsy, and cutting much deeper than 2 in. is impossible with most models. And when it comes to identical repeat cuts—ripping wide boards into cabinet stock, for example—a track saw is a slow, sorry substitute for a table saw.

For landowners looking for side-by-side utility vehicles to help tackle larger jobs, comfort is just as important as reliability when the weather takes a turn for the worst. Polaris RANGER keeps you working through harsh conditions, while Polaris XPEDITION extends your trail riding season. 

Polaris is renowned for its robust and high-performing side-by-side (SxS). Its latest NorthStar lineup is no exception—delivering all-weather comfort so you can extend your riding season and work smarter, not harder. 

With fully enclosed cabs that seal out dust, water, and other elements, Polaris NorthStar vehicles offer a comfortable working environment year-round. They deliver fast-acting heating and air conditioning to keep you warm in the winter and cool on hot summer days. 

Versatility for Every User 

Polaris NorthStar vehicles are the ultimate companion for a wide range of users—from large property owners and ranchers to farmers, hunters, campers, and more.  

Polaris XPEDITION delivers elevated performance and all-weather comfort, with the capability to take on tough backcountry and technical terrain.  

RANGER NorthStar lineup of powerful UTVs makes it easy to get big jobs done fast no matter the season. Complete fall cleanup easier using the vehicle’s high-capacity box. Pull stumps with its robust winch. Transport equipment and larger supplies with its impressive towing capacity. RANGER delivers the capability you need to reach hard-to-access areas, enabling you to effortlessly maintain every corner of your land. In winter, the machine’s heated cab makes plowing a breeze, allowing you to keep your property clear and accessible. 

Both RANGER and Polaris XPEDITION NorthStar vehicles offer a wide selection of customizable accessories, including snowplows for winter upkeep and cargo racks for extra storage. Choose the right ones for you to find a perfect fit for your purpose and weather conditions. 

Do More with RANGER NorthStar 

Polaris has long led the industry in vehicles that are reliable, versatile, tough, and capable. More than 20 years ago, Polaris revolutionized the utility SxS market with the introduction of the RANGER line, a rugged workhorse to help you get more done. Polaris continues to innovate and evolve RANGER, enhancing comfort, convenience, and ease of use. The NorthStar lineup offers the most premium features to keep owners working in comfort.  

RANGER XP 1000 NorthStar offers a perfect blend of versatility and capability for property owners who need a vehicle that can handle various tasks, while also providing a comfortable ride. With a 2,500-lb. towing capacity, 1,000-lb. box capacity, 4,500-lb. winch, Pro Shield cab system, and heating and air conditioning—it can handle tough jobs in any weather. 

RANGER XD 1500 NorthStar is the most refined and premium of lineup, perfect for large property owners who demand the best. With an impressive 3,500-lb. towing capacity, 1,500-lb. box capacity, and 6,000-lb. winch, it’s up for any challenge. The powerhouse vehicle offers advanced features, including available heated seats and an HVAC system with five air–flow settings for faster, more efficient heating and cooling. With a superior design, RANGER XD 1500 NorthStar is a top choice for those who need a vehicle that can handle heavy-duty tasks with ease. 

Extend Trail 

Riding Season with Polaris XPEDITION 

When the work is done, NorthStar vehicles ease you off the beaten path. Polaris XPEDITION is a high-performance sport SxS that will take you, your family and friends, and your gear deep into the backcountry in comfort and style.  

For hunters, Polaris XPEDITION makes transporting gear to remote deer stands or duck blinds effortless. Its powerful 114 HP ProStar 1000 Gen 2 engine with a 12.5-gallon fuel tank lets you extend your adventures farther. In winter, Polaris XPEDITION is the perfect companion for reaching the best ice-fishing spots. In any season, quick acceleration and 14” of ground clearance allow you to take on rough backcountry terrain. 

Premium Features for Maximum Enjoyment 

Polaris NorthStar vehicles are not just about utility, they also offer premium fit, finish, and comfort. The available RIDE COMMAND infotainment touchscreen with off-road GPS mapping helps you stay on track, even in areas without cell service. This advanced system provides real-time information and control at your fingertips, enhancing your overall experience and helping you efficiently manage your projects. Paired with the premium JBL audio system that offers immersive sound, these vehicles are perfect for enjoying music while riding for work or play.  

Polaris NorthStar vehicles are designed to meet the diverse needs of their users, providing comfort, versatility, and premium features in all seasons and weather conditions. Whether you’re tackling tough jobs around your property, embarking on hunting trips, or exploring the backcountry, Polaris NorthStar vehicles are your reliable partner for every adventure.

For about 6,000 years, builders have been using ceramic tile outdoors—on buildings, walkways, and even streets. Not only does tile offer a range of colors and designs unmatched by any other material, it’s also amazingly tough. In places like Italy and Mexico, you can find exterior tile in good condition despite centuries of wear and tear.

You won’t find much ancient tile outdoors in cooler climates, though. Tile can take generations of foot traffic, but water that freezes or expands in or under tiles can turn a gorgeous patio into a crumbling mess.

That’s why tile hasn’t been used widely outdoors in cold climates: It was just too risky. Over the last several decades, however—as tile setting and materials have improved—that risk has diminished.

Six keys to successful outdoor tile setting

1. Use high-quality materials only. Expensive patio tiles won’t necessarily outlast moderately priced tile, but with thin-set, grout, sealer and caulk, you get what you pay for.
2. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Even the best setting materials won’t perform as promised unless you mix and use them as instructed.
3. Apply tile only to a stable, well-drained slab. A slab with places for puddles or ever-growing cracks is no place for tile.
4. Allow the tile to expand and contract without cracking by placing expansion joints no more than 16 ft. apart and anywhere the tile meets a vertical surface like steps or the house’s foundation.
5. Don’t give water places to enter or hide. That means densely packed and sealed grout joints, caulked expansion joints and no empty pockets in the thin-set.
6. Don’t delay maintenance. If grout cracks or a tile comes loose, replace it before a small problem becomes a big one.

Level the slab

Screed floor leveler over low areas using a 2×4. Check the entire slab for low spots by laying a straight 10-ft. 2×4 on edge; any areas where the gap between the slab and the 2×4 is wider than 1/8 in. must be filled.

Important: Nothing should cover isolation joints or fill expansion joints except caulk. If you get any floor leveler or isolation membrane in the joint, scrape it off with a putty knife after it hardens. Here are the best patio flooring ideas.

Apply crack isolation membrane

Comb the isolation membrane material over the slab with the notched edge of the trowel and then flatten it out with the trowel’s straight edge. When combing, hold the trowel consistently at about a 45-degree angle. That way, the notches will evenly distribute the pasty material, giving you a flat, consistent membrane.

Set the patio tiles in thin-set mortar

Squish patio tiles into thin-set mortar adhesive applied with a 3/4-in. U-notch (rounded-notch) trowel. Twist the tiles back and forth slightly as you force them down. Your goal is complete coverage—that is, the space between the tiles and the membrane below should be completely filled with thin-set (no cavities to hold water and cause trouble). To allow enough space for grout, remove the thin set that wells up between the tiles or into expansion joints with a pencil or screwdriver. Clean thin-set off the surface of tiles with a damp sponge.

Grout the tiles

Push the grout diagonally across the tiles, holding the grout float at a 45-degree angle. Use a hard rubber float, not one with soft foam backing. Work the grout back and forth in all four directions to pack the joints densely. Then, hold the float at nearly 90 degrees to the tile surface and scrape excess grout off the tile. Remove grout residue with a damp (not dripping-wet) sponge, rinsing it frequently.

Some home centers carry everything you’ll need for this project. But for the best materials and advice, visit a few tile specialty stores, preferably pro-level suppliers.

The tile you choose must be made from dense material—porous tiles will absorb water and crumble as that water freezes. The tile you buy may be called “frost-free,” “vitreous,” “impervious” or “freeze-thaw stable,” but whatever the label, make sure it’s warranted by the manufacturer to withstand freezing.

Chances are, you’ll need floor leveler, a powder that you mix with water and spread over low spots in the slab. Sometimes called SLC (self-leveling compound), floor leveler is sold under a variety of brand names; just be sure the one you buy is recommended for outdoor use.

An isolation membrane is an elastic barrier that separates the tile from the slab. That way, when the slab cracks—as all slabs eventually do—the tiles can “float” above the cracks without cracking themselves. This protection is limited, of course: Cracks that widen 1/8 in. or so will likely “telegraph” into the tiles above. Isolation membranes are available as sheets of rubbery fabric that get sandwiched between two layers of thin-set or as pasty trowel-on mixtures, which are easier to apply.

Latex additives make today’s thin–set mortar adhesives so much better than their predecessors. “Modified” materials—as in “latex modified” or “polymer modified”— are less likely to absorb water and more elastic, so they can better withstand movement caused by temperature change or by pockets of ice under the tile. Still, all modified thin-sets are not the same; use one that meets all specifications for outdoor use (the label includes this information).

The same goes for sanded grout; look for an exterior-grade grout. Ask the tile store for recommendations if you’re not sure. (The grout may require mixing with a latex liquid instead of water.)

Silicone grout sealer penetrates the grout, making it more resistant to both staining and water absorption.

Choosing the best caulk, for filling expansion joints, is sometimes a compromise between durability and appearance. Urethane caulk, which holds up to foot traffic best, may not be available in a color that matches your grout. Siliconized latex and acrylic latex are often available in more colors and in sanded versions to match the texture of the grout.

A sound old slab

An existing concrete patio or walkway can be tiled as long as water drains off it and any cracks in it are stable and level (one side of the crack shouldn’t be higher than the other). Cracks normally widen and narrow slightly with the seasons, but if they’re getting wider year by year, don’t tile over them.

If the concrete has sunk to the level of the surrounding soil, you’ll have to do some grading. Water must not pool on the tiles. So the slab’s surface has to be made flat.

To prepare an existing slab, scrub it clean with a stiff broom and water. Remove any oil or grease stains with a degreaser. If the concrete has a smooth-troweled surface, rent a pressure washer with at least 4,000 psi to clean the slab and roughen its surface. Muriatic acid will also clean and roughen concrete. Finally, fill cracks with caulk (one that’s intended for use on masonry) and holes with vinyl or latex patching compound (available at home centers).

A perfect new slab

Pouring a concrete slab is a major project in itself and we won’t explain how to do it here. Whether you do it yourself or hire a contractor, here are the requirements for a lasting, tile-ready slab:

• Patio slabs are typically 3-1/2 in. thick and reinforced with steel mesh (if anything). But because strength and crack resistance are so important for this project, we recommend a slab 5 to 6 in. thick, reinforced with a 2-ft. x 2-ft. grid of 1/2-in. rebar.
• For good surface drainage, the slab should slope 1/4 in. per running foot. A 16-ft. long slab, for example, would be 4 in. lower on one end than the other.
• Place isolation or control joints in the slab where they’ll coincide with expansion joints in the tile (more on that below).
• If you hire a contractor to pour the slab, make sure curing compounds aren’t used. Curing compounds increase the strength of concrete by slowing the curing process, but they also prevent tile-setting materials from bonding well to the slab.
• The slab should have a broomed finish, not a smooth-troweled surface.
• Concrete shrinks and gains strength for weeks after it’s poured. Wait at least four weeks before setting tile on a new slab. And any concrete, new or old, should stay dry for at least three days before you begin tile work.

Exterior ceramic tile details

A new slab should have at least 6-in. of compacted fill and a minimum 5-in. of concrete with rebar, with expansion joints.

Seal expansion joints

Seal expansion joints with caulk after cleaning them out well (vacuuming them is a quick, thorough method). To make a neat joint, mask the tile along both sides and smooth the caulk with a rounded putty knife. You can round the blade of a plastic putty knife using a utility knife and sandpaper.

Whether you’re setting tile on an old or new slab, you must include expansion joints. An expansion joint is a strip of flexible material—in this case, caulk—that lets tile expand and contract with changes in temperature. Here’s where to put expansion joints:

• Anywhere tile meets a vertical surface like steps or the foundation of your house.
• Over any isolation or control joints in the concrete. Isolation joints are strips of compressible material (isolation strip) in the slab. Control joints are shallow grooves in the concrete.
• Your patio must have expansion joints at least every 16 ft. (measuring in both directions). For example: A 16 x 16-ft. patio would need expansion joints only along steps or a foundation. A 16 x 20-ft. patio would need one dividing the 20-ft. length. The patio shown here (about 20 x 20 ft.) needed two intersecting joints.

Typically, expansion joints placed 12 ft. apart or less must be at least 3/8 in. wide; joints 12 to 16 ft. apart, 1/2 in. wide. But if you live, say, on the Canadian Prairie, where summer highs and winter lows can differ by more than 100 degrees, add 1/8 in. of width to your expansion joints. NOTE: Also widen expansion joints (or space them closer together) if you plan to use dark-colored tile, which becomes hotter when exposed to sunlight.

Plan the tile design

Design and build the patio as an extension of the interior rooms in adjoins.

Layout planning—determining in detail how to position the tiles—is one of the most important (and neglected) parts of any tile project. It’s a good idea to use graph paper to design and redesign the layout. Here are a few things that make planning for exterior tile different from most interior jobs:

• Even if the caulk you use to cover the expansion joints closely matches the grout, the expansion joints will be noticeable—in part, because they’re usually wider than grout joints. This isn’t a problem unless the joint interferes with a symmetrical pattern. Often, the solution to this problem is to create a “dummy” expansion joint to restore symmetry. Just leave a space as wide as a true expansion joint between the tiles and fill it with caulk.
• If you’re pouring a new slab, choose the tiles and layout first. That way, you can size the slab to eliminate (or at least minimize) cutting tiles and place expansion joints where they’ll work with, rather than against, your design.
• If glass doors or large windows will overlook the patio, it will be more like an extension of your home’s interior than an entirely separate space. So as you design your patio, be sure to keep adjacent rooms and colors in mind.
• Try to choose tiles that are available in a ”bullnosed“ version. The rounded edges will nicely finish off the edges of your patio.

Attention all Jeep lovers: Delsey Paris launched a new collection of Jeep luggage. From rolling duffle bags to backpacks, the luggage line is water-resistant, sustainable and designed for the outdoors.

The famous luggage brand isn’t the first to partner with Jeep. Not long ago, Merrell and Jeep collaborated on a special-edition hiking boot. Jeep’s signature elements, like the seven-slot grille and Willys star, are featured on the luggage. Even the suitcases’ interior lining features a printed topography map. The luggage line’s bold hues are also a nod to the Jeep brand.

Because we like to get our hands on all things outdoors, we knew we had to snag some products from the new luggage line for ourselves. We secured multiple bags: a backpack and two luggage pieces, to be exact. Here’s how the pieces arrived in person.

What is the Jeep Collection from Delsey Paris?

The Jeep Collection features hard-sided luggage in four core styles: carry-ons, standard spinners and trunks. They’re designed to be bold and rugged with off-road, dual-density traction wheels, convenient handles and shock-absorbing corner protectors.

The line also has duffle bags and backpacks. The duffles are available in three rolling styles and various sizes. Each includes trail-tested wheels and water-repellent material. Six backpack styles feature comfortable designs, laptop sleeves, water bottle pockets and reflective straps.

We Put the Luggage to the Test

I used the hard-shell luggage pieces from the Delsey Paris x Jeep line on a road trip across multiple states. The large spinner trunk is huge and has enough space to hold everything you’d typically need for a few weeks of travel. It weighs about 11 pounds and measures 14-1/2 by 16-1/4 by 31-1/2 inches. Its volume is approximately 121 liters. Meanwhile, the medium expandable spinner is less than nine pounds and measures 11-1/4 by 17-1/4 by 26-3/4 inches. Its volume is about 85 liters.

Both spinners checked the boxes for my luggage must-have features: easy-glide wheels and a telescopic handle, a durable outer shell, and top and side handles for easy grabbing. The large trunk spinner has a TSA-approved lock at the top for added security and two additional handles on the front.

Because the luggage is designed with Jeep durability, it seemed only right to use it for a road trip. So, I packed up and loaded up my Subaru (not a Jeep, unfortunately). The luggage stacked nicely in my trunk and held its shape despite other things being packed in on top. While unloading, I dropped the smaller suitcase, which remained free of dents and scratches.

I have yet to take the pieces through the TSA, but I’m confident they’d hold up. The construction of the suitcases is not unlike that of Calpak luggage, which I own multiples of and have used for years on various trips and flights. Additionally, Delsey Paris offers two- and three-year limited worldwide warranties, depending on which products you purchase.

Both suitcases are expandable and have various interior pockets for organizing. They also have tie-down straps and a mesh divider to help hold contents in place during travel. I liked that I could zip away my shoes to keep them off of my clothes and that I could separate my clothes and toiletries on each side of the suitcase. When it came time to open the suitcases and unpack, the contents were neatly in place. The suitcases’ wheels are also designed with extra traction for rugged landscapes, and I had no problem hauling them across gravel and grass.

Our Favorite Delsey Paris x Jeep Products

If you’re an over-packer looking for a large, easy-to-haul trunk, the large expandable spinner trunk is our top pick. It’s available in four colors: chili pepper red, elm green, black and warm sand. The Jeep logo is at the top, and the famous Jeep grille design is at the center. All four colors are accented with bright orange wheels and telescopic handles. The ABS/PC shell protects against the elements.

The multi-purpose laptop backpack is a convenient size for an everyday bag. It comes in elm green, bright orange, peacoat navy and black. The top pocket has the Jeep logo, and the bottom pocket has a star, a nod to the brand’s military heritage. The durable recycled polyester makes transitioning from class to an outdoor adventure a breeze.

The medium expandable spinner offers plenty of space for weekend trips. It has an expandable zipper, tie-down straps, pockets and a mesh divider. It comes in classic colors like avocado green and beige, as well as peacoat navy and black. It doesn’t have a built-in lock system, but it does have interlocking zippers suitable for a combination lock.

Where to Buy the Delsey Paris x Jeep Luggage

You can shop the Jeep luggage line at Delsey Paris. The large expandable spinner trunk retails for $300, while the medium expandable spinner is $240. The backpacks range in price from $60 to $90, and rolling duffle bags are between $120 to $180 (depending on the size you select).