Whether you need to fit pavers together or trim up a patio, it could very well require cutting concrete with a saw. It’s a physically demanding job, but it can be manageable if you choose the correct tools and practice key techniques.

If you’re embarking on a concrete project, here’s how to set yourself up for success with cutting concrete.

What Tools Do You Need for Cutting Concrete?

To cut concrete, people commonly use a handheld circular saw and diamond-bit blade, but you can also use:

• A table saw, which makes it easier for beginners to make straight or mitered cuts;
• An angle grinder, for small and detailed projects like thin veneer and pavers; and
• A chainsaw for larger projects.

Some saws are classified as wet saws, which require a water source. They are great for helping to keep dust down, especially indoors where there is less ventilation. The downside is that they are less maneuverable. Whichever saw you use, you will also need a diamond-bit blade.

What Type of Saw Blades Do You Need for Cutting Concrete?

Diamond-tipped blades are required for cutting concrete. Choose a blade hardness that matches the material you’re cutting.

“If it’s relatively soft, coarse concrete such as that [is] found in wall block, you want a blade that won’t wear down quickly,” says Jeremy Martin of Willow Gates Landscaping. “If you’re cutting hard, dense concrete with a finer aggregate such as concrete pavers or some natural stone, you need a blade that will wear down faster to expose fresh diamonds to continue cutting.”

How To Cut Concrete

If you are concrete saw-cutting concrete:

• Prep the area by clearing it of debris, especially metals that could get caught in the blade.
• Adjust the saw for the desired depth of the cut.
• Mark the lines you want to cut using chalk, a marker, paint or a grease pen. “Make sure to mark these spots completely and clearly to prevent missing them when concrete dust goes everywhere,” says Brandon Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration.
• Put on safety gear, including eye and ear protection. Wear a respirator to prevent inhaling dust. A protective suit can also help you avoid getting covered in dust and debris.
• If you’re making wet cuts, keep a consistent water supply running, preventing the saw blade from overheating, binding or warping. For dry cutting, let the blade cool down every 30 to 45 seconds.
• Before placing the blade on the concrete, let it get up to speed, then lower it onto the surface slowly to prevent it from binding.
• As you cut, keep your blade squared up with the line of your mark.
• Once you’ve finished your cut line, release the trigger and let the blade spin down inside the cut before removing it from the cutting area.
• Clean up the dust. “Vacuums are best for cleaning up concrete dust because they prevent spreading and aeration caused by brooms while sweeping,” says Walker.

Also, whenever possible, bring the saw to the work area rather than carrying the product to the saw, says Martin. “Paving and wall materials are heavy, and it’s physically demanding to move them to the saw and back to where they will be installed.”

Cutting Different Types of Concrete

If you’re cutting a curve, Martin recommends forming your line using pex, hose or fiberglass tent poles. “When cutting wall block, a handheld saw may not cut the whole way through a block,” says Martin. “In this situation, mark the block, then cut as far as the saw blade will reach. Then flip the block, and cut the remainder.”

Dos and Don’ts for Cutting Concrete

When cutting concrete, always:

• Wear safety gear, including hearing, eye and respiratory protection.
• Check the condition of your blade.
• Choose the correct type of blade for the concrete you are cutting.
• Clean up wet slurry before it dries. If it dries, removing it could cause damage to surfaces.
• Actively control dust.

“Unless it’s a very shortcut, dust control is essential,” says Martin. “Cutting generates a lot of dust, some of which is harmful respirable crystalline silica.”

Most saws have a built-in water attachment that will control the dust by wetting it, and some have built-in vacuums like those from IQ Power. Another option is a central dust collector such as those offered by Dust Killer Tools.

“Using a vacuum for dust control will result in a much cleaner job site, without a huge cloud of dust drifting over the work area, neighboring homes and cars,” says Martin.

Some mistakes to avoid include:

• Using a wet blade without using water, which will damage it.
• Cutting concrete in confined spaces without proper ventilation.
• Using dull blades, which will lower the quality of the cut.
• Forcing the blade. If it isn’t cutting properly, instead make multiple shallower passes.
• Cutting through objects embedded in the concrete, like rebar and electrical wires.
• Pulling the saw out of the cut before the blade has spun down.

“Poor planning is also a common issue when dealing with slab cutting,” says Walker. “Measure everything until you are positive that it’s right, then triple check again. You can only make the cut once, and with concrete it isn’t easy to fix mistakes.”

When to Hire a Pro

If you are unsure of your ability, or if it feels dangerous, then call a pro. You might also hire a pro if you have to do major cuts or are unsure about crossing over plumbing and electrical lines.

“Saving money by doing things the DIY way is great, but not if it comes at the cost of an insurance claim for water damage when you cut through a pipe, or a blackout when you slice the electrical line,” says Walker.

FAQs

How long do diamond blades last for cutting concrete?

They can last anywhere from about 10 hours to 100 hours, depending on the manufacturer, technique, surface material and torque of the saw. “If doing a significant amount of cutting, spend at least $100 to $175 on a good blade,” says Martin. “They are well worth the investment!”

Is cutting concrete difficult?

Yes. “Not only is it physically tasking work, which involves heavy equipment and materials, but it is also dirty and dangerous too,” says Walker.

Can you rent tools for cutting concrete?

Yes. You can rent concrete saw-cutting tools from most home improvement box stores, as well as tool rental companies. “The rental cost may vary from $50 to $1,000 depending on your project size and the number of tools, you may require,” says licensed contractor Jay Sanders.

How long does it take to cut concrete?

How long it takes to cut concrete depends on the length and depth of the cut, the quality of the saw and your experience level. “Smaller projects can be accomplished within a few minutes, whereas larger ones might require several hours,” says Sanders. “If you cut through a 4-inch thick concrete slab, using a professional-grade saw, it may demand approximately 45 minutes to one hour.”

Should you wear a mask when cutting concrete?

Yes, definitely. You should wear, at minimum, an N95 respirator mask, plus use other dust control methods such as water or a vacuum.

“Silica dust is a real danger, and it should be feared just as much as people do with mold or asbestos because it can cause serious health problems when not respected,” says Walker.

About the Experts

• Brandon Walker is Superintendent at ASAP Restoration in Tempe, Arizona. He has more than 20 years of experience in the industry, doing everything from running his own company and ASAP teams to all of the odd-jobs in between.
• Jeremy Martin is owner of Willow Gates Landscaping in Mohnton, Pennsylvania, which he founded in 2005. He shares his passion for the industry by teaching installer courses for retaining walls, concrete pavers, permeable pavers and advance hardscape projects, plus speaking at industry events.
• Jay Sanders is a licensed contractor based in Baltimore. He owns Maryland Contractor and Castle Dream Construction, and has been working in construction for more than a decade.

Recalls are never fun. As a consumer, whenever a recall is announced, it’s vital to check to see if any of the products you own are on the list. If they are, it’s important to follow the steps laid out by the manufacturer to return, repair, or replace them and keep you and your family safe. On June 5, Kawasaki Motors USA announced a recall of certain engines in their lawn and garden equipment.

Kawasaki Motors USA has recalled over 68,500 engines in the United States and a further 900 in Canada due to the fact that these engines are prone to dangerous overheating. Read on as we explain which engines have been recalled, why, and what to do if you own one.

• Bad Boy Mowers
• BigDog
• Bobcat
• Cub Cadet
• Hustler
• John Deere
• Kubota

If you purchased any equipment on this list between April 2021 and December 2023, it’s likely included in the recall.

If you’re a coffee lover, you probably make your own at home some days. And whether you’re using a french press, a pour-over set up or something else, you’ll be left with coffee grounds. If you’re in a hurry, it may be tempting to dump them in the sink and let the garbage disposal handle it, but can you safely put coffee grounds down a garbage disposal? Or is that a recipe for a plumbing disaster?

This is absolutely not a plumbing question that you want to learn the answer to the hard way. So, we spoke to Destry Thompson and Jessie Cannizzaro, both experienced plumbers, to answer this question for you; read on to see what they had to say.

Can You Put Coffee Grounds Down a Garbage Disposal?

“The question isn’t ‘can you put coffee grounds down a garbage disposal’ but rather ‘should you put them down the disposal,'” Cannizzaro jokes. She explains that fats-be they from meats, dairy, cooking oil, or something else can coat your pipes. These coatings get thick and build up into large deposits. When coffee grounds go down the drain, they can get stuck in these fat deposits. This is the beginning of the problem.

Thompson adds that “coffee grounds don’t dissolve in water, so they can block up your plumbing. This might make your garbage disposal work less effectively and could lead to big problems later on.”  These trapped grounds are laying the groundwork for a major plumbing issue down the road.

Will Coffee Grounds Clog My Sink?

Coffee grounds are small, so it seems like they shouldn’t create clogs. But that’s an incorrect assumption. Thompson explains that “when coffee grounds go down the drain, they mix with other stuff like grease and soap scum, creating a big lump that eventually blocks the drain.”

Unlike with hair clogs down your bathtub, snaking your drain often isn’t enough to clear these clogs. Cannizzaro says that the snake will often bore through the fat deposits, creating a bit of a hole that water can drain through. But when you retract it, the loosened pieces will often get pulled back in and keep the sink gummed up. You may have shifted the clog enough to temporarily speed up your drain, but it’s still there— and the problem will quickly return.

Will Coffee Grounds Make My Sink Smell?

If you’re a coffee lover, you might think that the lingering smell in your drain is a pleasant idea. After all, who doesn’t love waking up to the comforting scent of coffee in the kitchen? But in this instance, you’d be wrong. Thompson cautions, “As [coffee grounds] build up in the pipes, they can trap other food bits and gunk…which can quickly create bad smells in your sink.”

Cannizzaro agrees; she stresses that the way the grounds get trapped in fat deposits is a perfect setup for them to catch other food particles. And the longer this goes on, the worse the clog will be, and the more trapped debris will rot. Soon, you’ll have a very smelly and expensive problem on your hands. As mentioned above, snakes aren’t enough to clear these clogs; you’ll most likely have to call in the professionals.

So there you have it; just because coffee grounds will fit down a drain does not mean they belong down there. Save yourself the hassle-and the money-and compost your used grounds or throw them away. Keep them far away from your drains!

About the Experts

• Jessie Cannizzaro is a plumber and the owner of Milestone Plumbing.
• Destry Thompson is a plumber and General Manager with John Stevenson Plumbing.

With a long, hot summer just around the corner, most of us are planning our next cool escape. Traditional in-ground pools remain in demand among homeowners with deep pockets and flexibility to wait months for permits and construction. The Bestway Steel Pro Max Round Above Ground Pool Set is just as fun but significantly more affordable, durable and easier to assemble. Instead of taking months to build, the Bestway pool can be installed, filled and ready to enjoy in hours.

Owning a swimming pool has always been a dream of mine. The idea of filling the pool with oversized floats, lounging in the sun and staying cool in my backyard makes this hyper-enthusiastic pool reviewer feel giddy. We have access to community pools and the beach, but we found ourselves still wanting a pool. Swimming at any hour just a few steps from my home without the crowds or entrance fees spoke to me.

Unlike traditional pools and in-ground hot tubs, installing an above-ground pool is way more relaxed. And that’s precisely what you should be: Way more relaxed. Pop on a tutorial, stake out a flat area in your backyard and order a few pool accessories. It’s pool time.

Here’s my first-hand experience and whether or not I think you should buy the Bestway above-ground pool, too.

What is the Bestway Above-Ground Pool?

The Bestway pool set is appealing because it combines a fixed-in-place, above-ground pool with a temporary, removable swimming pool. The pool is 14 feet long, 33 inches deep and can hold 2,700 gallons of water. This pool features a sturdy steel frame and puncture-resistant liner with an appealing prismatic stone pattern on the inside liner. The liner is made of heavy-duty PVC and polyester 3-ply walls for extra durability. According to the manufacturer, the liner is 15 percent more tear-proof and 83 percent more puncture-proof than standard PVC liners.

Bestway Above-Ground Pool Features

The Bestway Steel Pro Max Pool Set has a cartridge filter, pump and ground fault circuit interrupter, a safety feature that will shut off the pump if water gets into the electric current. This model also includes a flow control drain valve for easy draining. You’ll need to purchase a ladder and solar cover separately. (A solar cover helps heat your pool using solar energy, keeping it ready to use when you want it. It also helps cut energy costs and reduces evaporation.)

Setup is easy thanks to the company’s tool-free FrameLink system. The manufacturer recommends assembling the pool with two to three people, so you’ll want to call some friends over to assist.

How I Tested It

As a first-time pool owner, I tested the Bestway Steel Pro Max over several weeks, focusing on assembly and durability. I reached out to pool experts and joined Facebook groups focused on above-ground pools, where people could ask questions about setup and discuss water quality.

Testing the Bestway pool began with assembly. Our yard has a flat, mulched area that was the perfect spot for an above-ground pool. It’s close to a power source for the pump and filter. I started by leveling the ground with a laser level, then added a 4-inch layer of masonry sand. Mortar (or masonry sand) is best because it’s screened well to prevent pebbles from poking holes in the liner. Play sand is too fine, and construction sand has small pebbles. The sand base will compress with the weight of the water, providing a solid foundation that can support the pool’s weight. It also acts as a barrier between the pool and the ground, protecting the liner from rocks, roots and other sharp objects.

Next, I laid out the liner and organized the pool frame’s supports and corners to prevent mix-ups during assembly. Ground prep and assembling the frame and liner took about three hours with a three-person crew, starting with unboxing, removing the packaging, organizing parts, ground leveling and assembly. I placed 4-inch-thick pavers under each leg, making sure the pavers were level to the ground.

A level base with less than a 2-inch difference is crucial to preventing collapse or stressing the pool walls. According to pool expert Randy Huckstadt, “Unlevel pool supports are not meant to have the additional weight put on them by an unlevel above-ground pool and can bend and collapse. Once you have a good base, you can set up the support system, install the liner and begin filling.”

After assembling the frame and liner, I filled the pool with one to two inches of water, then gently smoothed any wrinkles on the liner, starting from the center to the wall and working clockwise to the outside. While the pool filled with water, I connected the filter and pump to the pool.

It took about six hours to fill the pool using a garden hose. I only filled the pool during the daytime, as filling the pool at night is not recommended. Cold air can shrink the liner, while the water makes the liner stretch.

Pro tip: You can save money filling your pool by calling your water company and letting them know you’re doing so. They will eliminate the sewage charge from the extra water use, which is often the most expensive part of the water bill. I estimate this will save me about $100 on my water bill.

The cartridge filter that came with the pool didn’t seem to keep up and needed to be cleaned daily. You can tell when the filter plugs up because the return flow will drop almost nothing. I plan to update the filter to a sand filter. John Uhle, pool expert and founding partner at Discount Salt Pool, explains how to select the appropriate filter for your pool, “The filter should be able to process the entire pool volume every five hours and have a reservoir large enough to trap and hold dirt effectively.”

“If you want to enhance the filtration quality further, consider using filter balls, which provide superior filtration and hold onto small dirt particles more effectively. Achieving the best possible filtration often requires sand filters with high pump capacities relative to their tank size, which benefit greatly from using filter balls,” Uhle explains.

Pros

• Durable steel frame
• Fast DIY tool-free setup
• Extremely affordable
• Puncture-resistant liner
• Cartridge filter and pump included
• Takes up little storage space
• Great for kids and pets

Cons

• Doesn’t come with a pool ladder or accessories
• Plastic pump included is a bit weak

FAQ

Can a Bestway pool stay up all year?

Pools with galvanized steel walls can withstand winter conditions without damage. However, the Bestway has a steel frame and flexible lining, which can’t withstand freezing temperatures without damage. Soft-sided pools generally don’t fare well through winter and must be drained and disassembled.

According to Uhle, “When temperatures fall to 50 degrees Fahrenheit or lower, you should dismantle your soft-sided above-ground pool to prevent damage. Snow, ice, frost and cold temperatures can damage any soft-sided pool, regardless of the brand. Leaving these pools up during the winter can lead to mold, brittleness, significant liner tears and warping of the frame, which will ruin the pool and void the manufacturer’s warranty.”

If you live in a warm climate and regularly clean and maintain your Bestway pool, you can leave it up all year round. However, Rafi Friedman, CEO at Coastal Luxury Outdoors, says it’s best to take it down if you aren’t using it for extended periods, especially if you live where it freezes regularly.

How often should you change the water in a Bestway pool?

If the water chemistry is correct and the pump and filter do their job, the water you fill your pool with will last for the entire swimming season.

“A small amount of water may evaporate during hot summers or splash out during active swimming, so you may have to add a small amount of water during the season. However, if you have no structural and equipment integrity issues, no leaks and use the pool cover when not in use, this natural water loss will be minimized,” explains Uhle.

There are situations when it’s time to change the pool water. “Chronic issues with algae, water clarity or keeping the water balanced are good indicators that it may be time to drain the pool,” explains Alicia Toedter, education leader with Leslie’s Pools, a leading pool care retailer in the U.S.

Does a Bestway pool need chlorine?

Every pool needs a way to keep the water clean and sanitary. The most popular sanitizer for outdoor pools is chlorine, effective against algae, bacteria and other harmful organisms.

“A daily low-level dose of chlorine and a weekly shock treatment will help you maintain a Free Available Chlorine level between 1–4 parts per million (ppm), essential to prevent waterborne illnesses and keep the pool water clean and clear,” says Toedter. “Chlorine can be added in various forms, such as liquid chlorine, chlorine tablets or granular chlorine, depending on your preference and pool type. Many above-ground pool owners prefer using chlorine tablets in a floating chlorinator for daily sanitization and granular shock once a week.”

Looking for alternative sanitizers? Consider mineral, ozone or UV systems, which can reduce chlorine usage. “Chlorine is still required as a primary sanitizer. Other sanitizers for those looking to avoid chlorine include bromine and biguanide,” says Toedter. “Saltwater pools are another alternative, although they’re still technically ‘chlorine’ pools—they use electrolysis to convert salt into chlorine.”

How often should you change the water in a Bestway pool?

With proper maintenance, including regular cleaning, filtration, chemical balancing and sanitization, the same water can be used for several seasons.

“We generally recommend partially draining and refilling the pool every 2–3 years to maintain good water quality and keep the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) level within the recommended range,” says Toedter. “Issues with high Calcium Hardness or Cyanuric Acid levels may also warrant draining to maintain proper balance. Chronic issues with algae, water clarity or keeping the water balanced are good indicators that it may be time to drain the pool.”

“Just keep in mind that draining can damage a vinyl liner pool. To avoid this, you can drain and refill one foot of water at a time to keep the pool filled, and the liner stretched and covered while you dilute the existing water with fresh replacement water,” Toedter adds. “But you should only completely drain a vinyl liner pool if you intend to replace the liner or the water is unsalvageable. Otherwise, the liner can pucker, wrinkle and crack while there’s no water in the pool may even tear when you try to add water back in.”

If the water chemistry is correct and a pump and filter do their job, the water you fill your pool with will last for the entire swimming season. However, a small amount of water may evaporate during hot summers or splash out during active swimming, so you may have to add a small amount of water during the season. However, if you have no structural and equipment integrity issues, no leaks and use the pool cover when not in use, this natural water loss will be minimized.

How does Bestway compare to Intex?

Compared to a soft-sided Intex pool, the Bestway has a protective and strong liner. Intex uses a three-ply PVC type of wall, while Bestway has a three-layer wall made of polyester sandwiched between two PVC layers.

Both pool brands typically do not require any special tools for assembly. They are easily set up and run, but the Intex pools have well-laid instructions, unlike Bestway, which lacks straightforward guidelines. I ended up watching a couple of tutorials to troubleshoot the assembly of the Bestway Steel Pro Max.

The pump included with an Intex pool is often not strong enough, and the quality of the pump with the Bestway Steel Pro Max can also be disappointing at times. Both pools are easy to set up, robust and a great value.

What Others Have to Say

Reviewers hail the Bestway as the best soft-sided above-ground pool under $500. Between positive remarks about the pool’s durability, ease of installation and water depth, it’s easy to see why it amassed 2,400 positive ratings on Amazon.

Bernice Begil, a five-star reviewer, calls this pool the best buy of the summer. “The pool was an easy set up, sturdy and great quality. The size is true and the pool liner is thick. Best buy of the summer!”

“Easy setup. Product was as advertised. Doesn’t come with a ladder but can easily find those. Don’t be a fool, get this pool,” writes Amazon reviewer Kristina.

Amazon reviewer Becky purchased the Bestway pool for her sister’s children and has not been disappointed. “The site setup and prep was the most time consuming but putting the pool up and getting it ready to use is very simple and easy! The hours of use by my niece and nephews and the endless laughter and smiles, makes this pool absolutely worthwhile!”

Final Verdict

If you’re in the market for an affordable. durable above-ground pool, look no further. The Bestway Steel Pro Max offers easy, no-tool installation and superb durability (it stood up to my 35-lb, water-loving dog, my twins and all their pool accessories). The water depth is impressive for a pool under $500. I recommend the Bestway pool for its sturdiness, overall appearance and price point (under $300). However, I recommend upgrading the cartridge filter to a more robust sand filter.

Where to Buy the Bestway Above-Ground Pool

The Bestway is available on Amazon and retails for under $300. With similar pools costing over $500, it’s well worth the price for an above-ground pool that will last summer after summer. Snag one before the weather cools down, and enjoy summer vibes right in your own backyard!

Dirt is like thousands of little blades that cut carpet fibers. Walking across a dirty carpet, you grind sharp dirt particles against the yarn, making tiny nicks in the fibers. All that fuzz mixed in with the dirt in your vacuum cleaner bags is your beautiful carpet headed out the door one bag at a time.

When dirt scratches the fibers, it dulls the carpet’s sheen, which is why high-traffic areas appear duller than the rest of the carpet. Over time, grinding dirt wears away the fibers, too, matting them down and making them stain more easily. Follow these tips on how to clean and disinfect carpet to keep yours as dirt-free as possible.

Banish Dirt

Vacuum often

To protect your carpet, vacuum entrance areas and high-traffic areas twice a week and the rest of the carpeting at least weekly. (Before you do that, use a carpet rake to break up the gunk so your vacuum can finish the job perfectly.) Oily soils attract oily soils, and frequent vacuuming will reduce soil buildup.

Start with a clean bag or filter

A dirty bag, dirt cup or filter can cut a vacuum’s suction power in half. The main reason bagless vacuums stop working is that the filters aren’t changed often enough. Replace or wash (if possible) the filters on bagless vacuums every three months. Replace vacuum bags when they’re three-quarters full.

Vacuum at the right speed

Vacuum slowly enough to get out as much dirt as possible. Make one quick pass over low-traffic areas and two slow passes over high-traffic areas. Two slow passes remove ground-in dirt more effectively than several fast passes.

Use walk-off mats

Use walk-off mats inside and out to keep dirt off the carpeting. Coarse-textured mats outside your doors remove soil and will make carpet cleaning easier down the line. Water-absorbent mats inside the doorway keep wet shoes off of the carpeting.

Use a Pro Wisely

Most carpet manufacturers recommend professional hot water extraction as the primary cleaning method for synthetic carpets. Although it’s often referred to as “steam” cleaning, there’s no steam involved. The carpet is pretreated with a detergent solution, and then a very hot rinse solution is forced into it and vacuumed out under high pressure. When done correctly, this process cleans deep and doesn’t leave behind a soap residue.

A rented or purchased carpet-cleaning machine will remove the surface dirt. But deep cleaning to remove allergens, dust and greasy residues requires the specialized equipment and training of a pro.

The best strategy is to use our DIY how-to-clean carpet cleaning tips most of the time and hire a professional every 12 to 18 months.

Don’t take bids over the phone

Quality pros will provide references, an in-home inspection and a written estimate based on the square footage, type and condition of the carpeting rather than the number of rooms cleaned, and a written guarantee of their work.

Beware of “discount” carpet cleaners

Discount pros depend on making volume sales rather than establishing ongoing client relationships. They typically spray soap on your carpet, suck up the water and are gone in 30 minutes. These services leave behind a soap residue that will actually attract dirt to your carpet. Those “three rooms for 50 bucks” offers also get them into your house so they can sell you high-priced add-ons like spot removal and deodorizers—services that quality pros include for free.

You get what you pay for

Quality pros charge according to the type of carpeting, the services you need and the job size. The entire process can take one to three hours.

DIY Right

Carpet pros do a more thorough job than you can, but hiring a pro is expensive. The next-best approach is to alternate between DIY and professional cleanings. DIY “steam” cleaning machines can be effective if you understand how to use them and take the time to clean your carpet carefully.

You can rent a steam cleaner from a grocery store or home center. If you pick the machine up late in the day, many stores will charge you a half-day rate and let you keep the machine until the next morning. The detergent cost is additional. Typically, you should use a tablespoon or less per gallon of water.

If you prefer to buy a steam-cleaning machine, plan to spend $60 to $300 or more. The pricier models have more powerful water jets and suction; some even have a heating element to keep the water hot. The reviews on these machines are mixed, and some are prone to breakdowns. Do online research (type “carpet cleaning machines” into your browser) before buying.

Most rental machines weigh more, hold more water and come with a wider wand than purchased models, making them useful for larger, high-traffic areas. Purchased models are usually smaller, more portable and easier to store. They’re good for spot cleaning and are easier to drag up and down stairs.

Clean the carpet before it becomes really dirty

How often your carpet needs cleaning depends on the kind of carpet traffic you have (think kids and pets). Clean the carpet when the color starts looking dull. If you wait until the carpet is filthy, cleaning it will be much more difficult, take much longer and cost more.

Vacuum well before and after cleaning

Vacuum beforehand to remove large particles of soil. Vacuum again after you clean and the carpet is completely dry to pick up soil that wicks to the surface during drying.

Pretreat stains and high-traffic areas

Mix a drop of detergent with hot water in a spray bottle and lightly mist the dirtiest areas. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes before starting the general cleaning. Learn how to get wax out of your carpet.

Remove or elevate furniture

If your furniture is too heavy to move, put aluminum foil squares, wood blocks or plastic film under and around the legs of all furniture to prevent rust from metal casters or stains from paint and finishes from transferring to damp carpet.

Don’t overwet the carpet

DIY machines put a lot of moisture into the carpet, and most don’t have strong enough suction to extract it thoroughly. Make only one pass with the soap and water solution. Make one pass with the neutralizing rinse solution. Then, make two or three drying passes with the water off.

Let it dry thoroughly

Wet carpets are perfect environments for mold and mildew. After you clean your carpets, open the windows, use fans and a dehumidifier, or put the AC on a moderate setting (72 to 78 degrees) to remove excess moisture from the air. Don’t replace the furniture or walk on the carpet until it’s completely dry. This can take up to 12 hours, though six to eight hours is typical.

Clean Stains Right Away

Don’t dig or scoop food spills

Digging or scooping can work the stain into the carpet. If there are solids on top of the stain, use a spoon or dull knife to carefully scrape the food toward the middle of the spill and into a white towel, then treat the stain.

Use a shop vacuum on wet spills

Keep vacuuming until no more liquid can be removed. If the spill was a colored liquid, treat it like a stain after vacuuming.

Act quickly

If you get to a stain immediately, there’s a 99 percent chance you can remove it. The longer a stain reacts chemically with the carpeting, the harder it is to remove.

Try water first

Eighty percent of stains can be removed using plain tap water. To remove a stain, press a clean, dry, white cloth over the stain to absorb the spill. Repeat until the spill is absorbed. Then, gently work water into the stain with a damp white towel and blot until the stain is gone. Change out the cleaning cloths when necessary. For a particularly stubborn spot, go to the online “spot solver” resource at The Carpet and Rug Institute (the carpet manufacturers’ trade organization) to find your stain and a suggested solution. Use a fan to dry the area if it’s very wet.

Blot—don’t rub or scrub

Scrubbing a stain will damage the fibers and create a fuzzy area. Always blot from the outer edge toward the center of the stain to avoid spreading the spot and creating a larger problem.

Be patient

Work water gently into the spill and then blot with a dry cloth. Repeat until the stain is gone and all the water has been absorbed. If you’re patient, you’ll almost always be able to remove the stain.

On tough spots, try vinegar or club soda

If water alone doesn’t remove a stain, try a white vinegar and water solution (equal amounts) or club soda before trying stronger commercial cleaning products.

Test commercial products first

Some products can cause the carpet to get dirty faster or damage the carpet’s color and texture. For a list of carpet manufacturer-approved spot and stain cleaners, go online to The Carpet and Rug Institute. Test carpet-cleaning products on an inconspicuous area before using.

A powerful spring thunderstorm rolled through Texas earlier this week, bringing eighty-mile-per-hour winds that toppled trees and knocked out power to hundreds of thousands of people, including me. Luckily, I have an emergency generator (I am an electrician, after all). So, after a few hours of nervously watching my computer’s power bar dwindle and thinking about the food in my fridge, I rolled the generator out of the garage and fired it up.

I’m glad I did. For two long days, that generator came through like a champ. No spoiled food! Over the years, I’ve used generators both at home and at work, and I’ve learned how to keep them running — often through trial and error. But you don’t have to be an electrician like me to keep your generator in tip-top shape. Below, check out how to maintain your emergency generator so it’s ready to go after a storm or natural disaster.

Read the Manual

“Instructions? Who needs ’em?” I can’t tell you how many electricians I know who do things by instinct. It’s almost a matter of pride. But when it comes to generator maintenance, I do not recommend following that lead. Generators take fuel (such as gasoline or propane) and turn it into electricity, and the internal workings have many moving parts. So, take some time to read the manual. It’ll lay out maintenance details and timing requirements specific to your generator.

Run It Periodically

Don’t wait for an emergency to know if your generator works. Start it up once a month or so and run it for about 30 minutes. Once it’s running, plug in an appliance (a portable space heater is easy) to ensure it handles a load. Something with an inrush current (aka starting current), like a fridge or an air conditioner, is also a good choice. Not only will this “exercise” the generator, but it’ll alert you to problems now, reducing your stress when an actual emergency happens.

Generators emit carbon monoxide, just like car exhaust. Whether testing or running your generator, keep it at least 20 feet from your home and never place it near open windows or doors.

Use the Right Fuel

Today’s gasoline often contains ethanol, which is fine for your car engine but not great for a generator, especially in large amounts. Keep the ethanol content of your gasoline under 10% to keep it from gumming up the carburetor, and never use E85. Your best option is regular unleaded gasoline. No matter what, avoid using old, stale gas. Swap out your stored gasoline every few months.

Propane doesn’t age like gasoline does, so if your generator is propane or dual-fuel like mine, it’s fine to keep a full propane tank on hand, ready to go.

Add a Fuel Stabilizer

Gasoline breaks down over time, and the resulting gummy deposits can clog and corrode your generator. Fuel stabilizers keep gas fresh by removing water, preventing separation and cleaning the fuel system. Generator manufacturers recommend adding fuel stabilizers every time you fill the tank. Always add the stabilizer to the gas can, not directly to the generator, and run the generator for a few minutes after filling to distribute the stabilizer.

Change the Oil

Oil lubricates the moving parts inside the generator, dissipating heat. Just like your car, if you don’t change the oil in your generator, you’ll eventually regret it. Many generator manufacturers, including mine, recommend changing the oil after the first 25 hours or the first month. After the initial break-in period, switch to every 6 months or 50-hour increments (or as recommended). If you’re operating it in dusty or dirty conditions or under heavy load, change the oil once a month, no matter the hours.

Start the generator and let it run to warm up the oil. Turn it off and allow it to cool slightly. To prevent an accidental start, disconnect the battery and the spark plug boot, which is the rubber cap covering the spark plug. Place a pan under the drain plug and drain the old oil. Dispose of it in an environmentally safe manner, replace the plug and fill it with fresh oil. Check the oil every time you use the generator.

Clean the Air Filter

Clogged air filters restrict airflow into the engine, reducing the performance, efficiency and life of your generator. Clean the air filter every 6 months or 50 hours to remove contaminants and improve airflow. The foam air filter is soaked in oil, so while it’s not hard to clean, it is a little messy. Wear gloves to protect your hands.

Locate the air filter compartment and remove the filter. Submerge the filter in warm, soapy water (dish soap works great) and gently squeeze— don’t wring. Once clean, refill the bowl with water and squeeze the filter to rinse. Pat dry, then air dry thoroughly.

Before putting the filter back, you have to re-oil it. Place a small amount of clean engine oil in a container and dip it in the filter. Squeeze to distribute and remove excess oil. (Too much oil will smoke when you start up the generator.) Replace the air filter after 300 hours or follow your manufacturer’s directions.

Clean the Spark Arrestor

Spark arrestors are screens that keep flammable debris from your generator’s exhaust from flying out and starting a fire. Depending on your model, the spark arrestor could be held in place by screws or a clamp, and you may have to remove a panel on the back to access it.

Let your generator cool down completely before cleaning the spark arrestor. Unscrew or unclamp the arrestor and pull it out, then scrub it with a wire brush to remove carbon deposits. Do this every 100 hours or 6 months of regular use. If you notice it’s damaged, replace it.

Check the Spark Plug

A spark plug ignites the air and fuel mixture that runs your generator, and it needs to be clean and in good condition for best performance. To inspect it, remove the spark plug boot when the engine is cool. Wipe off the area around the plug so debris can’t fall inside once you remove it from the generator.

Use an appropriately sized spark plug wrench, which might be included with your generator, or a deep socket to remove the plug. Clean the spark plug with rubbing alcohol or a commercial plug cleaner and a brush. Then, check the gap between the electrodes using a special tool called a feeler gauge or gap tool. Your generator manual will tell you what the gap should be (mine is 0.024 – 0.032 inch).

If you notice pitting or corrosion, or if the ceramic insulator is cracked, replace the spark plug. Otherwise, clean it every 6 months and replace it every year.

Store It Correctly

Before putting your generator away in the shed or garage, allow it to cool down for at least 30 minutes. If you’re using propane to fuel your generator, close and disconnect the tank. Wipe the generator down with a cloth to remove dust, dirt and debris, paying attention to the air vents. Cover the generator with a breathable cover to keep out dust, keep moisture down and prevent rust and corrosion.

If you are storing your generator for an extended period of time, drain the fuel tank and carburetor float bowl. Locate the drain screw at the bottom of the float bowl, and have a container ready to catch the fuel. To drain the tank, you’ll need a manual siphon. Always transfer gas into an approved container. Run the generator until it stops to use up any residual gas. Follow your manual for specific instructions.

Charge the Battery

If you know your generator will be sitting for a while, charge the battery about once a month overnight. Check to see if your generator comes with a 12-volt charging cable, and plug it into a wall receptacle. You can also put it on a trickle charger. My generator charges itself once it gets going, but not all generators do, so once again, read your manual!

FAQs

How long can a generator last if it is well-maintained?

It depends. High-end generators will likely last longer than budget ones, and a continuously running generator will wear out faster than one used after the occasional blackout. A good rule of thumb for a well-maintained portable generator is about 2,000 to 3,000 hours.

How long can a home run off of a generator?

It depends. Theoretically, a generator will run your home for as long as it keeps working. If you have to run your generator continuously, say, for weeks after a major hurricane, shut it down periodically to perform routine maintenance, as indicated in the manual.

The benefits of inflating car and truck tires with nitrogen gas is trending, but the technology isn’t necessarily new. Since the 1980s, the FAA has mandated nitrogen be used in aircraft tires. Nitrogen is also commonly used in race cars and heavy-duty mining equipment. But is it worth the extra $20-plus for putting it in your personal vehicle? Here’s how to decide.

What Are the Green Caps on Tires For?

Green caps on tire valve stems signify that the tire is filled with nitrogen instead of regular air.

Nitrogen vs. Ordinary Air-Filled Tires Pros and Cons

Nitrogen-Filled Tires

Pros:

• Less moisture buildup
• More stable tire pressure (less affected by temperature changes)
• Less pressure loss over time

Cons

• More expensive
• Not always readily available
• Marginal benefits for everyday drivers

Ordinary Air- Filled Tires

Pros

• Less expensive
• Widely available

Cons

• Pressure fluctuations
• Moisture collection, which can corrode tire beads and harm tire pressure sensors
• Potentially more frequent filling

Nitrogen vs. Ordinary Air-Filled Tires: Which Is Better?

It depends. Nitrogen has benefits, but “for most everyday driving, air is all that is needed,” says Paul Knoll of AmericanMuscle. “However, if the driver seeks more consistent tire pressure and potentially longer tire life with fewer maintenance intervals, nitrogen would be beneficial.”

Family Handyman master technician Bob Lacivita agrees. “It can’t hurt your tires,” he says. “For most drivers, regular compressed air is fine. However, if you live in climates where there are large temperature differences, do a lot of highway driving in warm conditions, or can get nitrogen for a few dollars at local tire store, it would be a good idea.”

Either way, get a good tire pressure gauge and check the tire pressure regularly.

FAQs

How long does nitrogen last in tires?

Several months, on average. Tires filled with nitrogen tend to maintain their pressure longer than those filled with ordinary air.

How much does it cost to refill nitrogen tires?

It ranges from around $5 to $10 per tire. Knoll says some service centers also offer unlimited refills for a one-time cost.

Where do you get nitrogen for tires?

Nitrogen for tires is available at many tire shops and automotive service centers.

Is it okay to mix nitrogen and air in tires?

Yes. It won’t do any harm to mix nitrogen with regular air in your tires, though that may degrade or eliminate the benefits of the nitrogen.

About the Experts

• Bob Lacivita was an award-winning General Motors master technician for 27 years and has been an ASE master technician since 1978. For 25 years, he also worked as an automotive technical educator and administrator. Today he writes about DIY car repairs and vehicle maintenance for Family Handyman, Reader’s Digest and other outlets.
• Paul Knoll is a dedicated car and truck enthusiast with a lifelong passion for vehicles and sharing his knowledge with the automotive community. He has worked his way up at AmericanMuscle.com for more than a decade and is currently marketing director.

@clean.by.kelcee

Pine Sol hack #clean #cleantok #cleaningmotivation #pinesol #repellent #hack #flies #asmr #asmrcleaning

♬ original sound – Clean By Kelcee

Flies are a nuisance when enjoying outdoor spaces for a barbecue, birthday party or eating dinner al fresco. With warmer weather ahead, learn how to keep the flies away with this popular Pine-Sol hack making the rounds on TikTok.

What is the Pine-Sol Hack for Keeping Flies Away?

Mix Pine-Sol and water in a bucket using a 50:50 ratio. Pour the mixture onto your concrete patio and scrub with a long-handled brush. Work in sections until the entire patio has been scrubbed. With this Pine-Sol hack, there’s no need to rinse — just let the patio dry, replace the furniture, and enjoy a fly-free day.

If you don’t want to treat your entire patio, Katie Femia from The Homespun Hydrangea suggests spot-treating outdoor furniture instead. “Clean outdoor tables and chairs with Pine-Sol and a soft cloth prior to use,” she says. Janet Thaeler from Clean Freak and Germaphobe suggests spraying and wiping a diluted mix of one part Pine-Sol and two parts water onto window sills, doors or other problem areas.

Does Pine-Sol Really Keep Flies Away?

Yes, Pine-Sol can keep flies away from your deck. “Products that contain natural oils like pine oil can repel flies,” chemistry professor Bill Carroll says. Despite Pine-Sol no longer containing actual pine oil, “it does contain limonene, which is a component of pine oil” Carroll says.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), limonene is a registered ingredient in 15 different insect repellent and pesticide products. It helps give Pine-Sol its distinct smell, and appears to be the active ingredient working to repel flies.

“Flies love many scents, but pine, lemon, and lavender are not included in that list,” Femia says. She suggests trying Pine Sol formulas that contain lavender and lemon oils for even better results.

In addition to repelling flies with its smell, Thaeler points out that using Pine-Sol to clean floors (like in this hack), also removes any spills or crumbs that could attract flies in the first place.

Is This Pine-Sol Hack Safe?

Yes, using Pine-Sol to keep flies away is safe.

According to the Pine-Sol product page, it is biodegradable and safe for use around pets. However, Thaeler suggests waiting until treated areas have dried before letting children or pets near to be safe. “Like any cleaner, avoid direct contact with your skin, eyes or mouth,” she says. Never spray directly on food or tableware.

When diluting for this Pine-Sol hack, only mix Pine-Sol with water. Do not combine with other chemicals or cleaning products, as this could create toxic gasses. Also, avoid using Pine-Sol on a wood deck with unsealed, oiled or aged wood.

About the Experts

• Bill Carroll, Ph.D., is an adjunct professor of chemistry at Indiana University. The former vice president of industry issues for Occidental Chemical Corporation, he’s currently principal of Carroll Applied Science in Dallas, Texas.
• Katie Femia is an author, gardening expert and creator of The Homespun Hydrangea, a lifestyle blog offering recipes, DIY tutorials and product reviews.
• Janet Thaeler is an expert cleaner at Clean Freak and Germaphobe, a popular website and YouTube channel devoted to home-cleaning tips, hacks and organizing. She has operated the site since 2018 and has over 240,000 subscribers.

Sources

• United States Environmental Protection Agency: Registered Eligibility Decision (RED) Fact Sheet: Limonene (1994)
• The Clorox Company, Pine-Sol official product page: Cleaner Safety (2024)

The spotlight for the “bug of the summer” has certainly been on spotted lanternflies and cicadas over the last few years. Now, it’s time to prepare for Joro spiders! According to a CBS report, the northeast U.S. is bracing for an invasion of the large, flying spider.

Experts have been warning of the incoming invasion of the Joro spider since 2022, and the New Jersey Pest Control said in early 2024 that they would be “hard to miss” as they make their way into more states. Females have a leg span of up to 4 inches and are known for their vibrant yellow and grey bodies.

The giant Joro spiders, sometimes called “parachuting spiders,” are set apart from other spiders through their ability to fly, a trait uncommon among spiders. These arachnids use a technique known as “ballooning,” where they release silk threads into the air, allowing them to be carried by the wind.

Ahead, learn all there is to know about Joro spiders.

What Is an Invasive Species?

The Joro spider is an invasive species, aka an organism that is not indigenous to a particular area and is likely to cause economic and environmental harm to the new area.

Native to East Asian countries such as Japan, Korea, Taiwan and China, Joro spiders are thought to have arrived in the United States through cargo ships and personal travel, according to USA Today. Since then, they have spread across Georgia, Tennessee and into the Carolinas, with sightings in Maryland, and as far west as Oklahoma, according to a study by Clemson University.

With the seasons transitioning from spring to summer, the spiders are expected to reproduce and spread to other states.

How To Identify Joro Spiders?

Joro spiders are easily identified by their larger size and distinctive yellow and grey color pattern.

Due to their size, they may be intimidating in appearance, but they likely won’t arrive in numbers large enough to threaten any native species valuable to the environment. They build large webs between power lines, easy to spot in the morning when speckled with dew, on top of traffic lights, poles along busy roads, and even above gas pumps. While females are brightly colored (they have yellow and gray abdomens), males are brown.

How Big Are Joro Spiders?

Some Joro spiders can measure as large as eight inches in length, so these summer visitors will be fairly easy to spot in and around your property.

Joro spiders have a body about four inches long and legs that span six to eight inches, around the size of the human hand. The females can grow to an inch long and 2 to 3 inches across with their legs outstretched.

Are Joro Spiders Dangerous?

The size of a Joro spider can be startling, but the real nuisance might be the large webs that people could walk into by mistake! Joro spiders are considered timid creatures (their bite is comparable to the sting of a bee). Because of their small mouth parts, they are usually not a safety concern for humans, who they will not bite unless provoked.

They will eat virtually any creature they can snare on their web, but they are not a threat to agriculture. Dr. Daniel Kiefer, PhD Entomologist and Technical Manager at American Pest says, “Spiders get a bad reputation, but they are actually beneficial to controlling other insects in your yard. Joro spider venom is reserved for their prey, which humans and pets are most certainly not.”

You need not worry about the Joro spiders getting inside your home. They want to build their webs and do their circus-like flying outside. “Our technicians use special dewebbing brushes to clear visible webs on the outside of your home, which will be the most effective way to keep them from accidentally getting inside. Flying is dramatic, but, like in Charlotte’s Web, it’s mainly for the Joro spiders to get from one area to another.”

About the Expert

• Dr. Daniel Kiefer, PhD, is an entomologist and technical manager at American Pest

Sources

• MDPI: “How Urban-Tolerant Are They? Testing Prey–Capture Behavior of Introduced Jorō Spiders (Trichonephila clavata) Next to Busy Roads
• CBS: “Joro spiders are an invasive species known for parachuting through the air. Here’s why you shouldn’t fear them.”
• USA Today: “Joro spiders, giant, venomous flying arachnids, are here to stay, pest experts say”
• Clemson.edu: “Clemson scientist: Study shows Joro spiders ‘here to stay,’ spreading fast”
• National Geographic: “Invasive Species”

When fate dealt me a one-two punch one afternoon, a ladder stabilizer saved my life. I was rebuilding soffits and fascias three stories up on my 40-foot, fully extended ladder. As I juggled tools and lumber, rising winds began buffeting the ladder. It wiggled and jiggled but withstood the gusts, thanks to the stabilizer. Then, in a Keystone cop-like maneuver, my partner accidentally banged a 1×10 across the bottom of the ladder. It shuddered even more but stayed put. Without the stabilizer, that ladder and I would have slid off the gable wall and crashed to the ground.

What Are Ladder Stabilizers?

Ladder stabilizers mount on extension ladders and are essential for working around windows, eaves and high walls when painting, siding or doing any exterior repair work.

Also called a “stand-off,” a ladder stabilizer has wide tubular arms and non-skid rubber pads that grip a house wall, increasing both a ladder’s stability and your “reach” working aloft. Stabilizers mount on all types of extension ladders, allowing them to straddle wide windows or “standoff” farther from a house to reach deep eaves while providing a rock-steady workstation. We’ll show you how a stabilizer can extend your ladder’s capabilities and how to use it to work faster and more safely.

When to Use Ladder Stabilizers

Although ladders are the No. 1 tool for helping you work up high, their narrow, 16- to 20-in. stance sometimes limits their ability to position you properly and safely for tackling these tricky tasks:

• Accessing all sides of a wide window. With a stabilizer, you position the ladder only once to efficiently reach all areas around the window.

• Painting the rake board of a wide overhang. A stabilizer allows you to see and reach the work from a more comfortable position.

• Working around a deep soffit to hang a gutter. If the ladder rests against the house, you have to bend back too far to work on the fascia. If it leans against the fascia, the ladder interferes with placing the gutter.

Renting scaffolding can solve most access problems. But you’ll save a lot of money and setup time by renting or buying a ladder stabilizer instead.

Be aware of overhead power lines. You could be electrocuted if you touch them with your ladder or stabilizer.

Types of Ladder Stabilizers

Stabilizers can be divided into two groups: fixed-depth and adjustable. Before renting or buying either type, verify that it’s intended for use with your aluminum or fiberglass ladder.

Fixed depth ladder stabilizers

To install a fixed-depth stabilizer, slide it over your ladder’s rungs and lock it in position with the safety clip. A typical model spans about 45 inches and holds the ladder 10 inches away from the house wall. It has a load capacity of 300 lbs. and is sold at home centers.

Adjustable ladder stabilizers

Adjustable stabilizers are the most versatile. Attach this type to your ladder’s side rails with U-bolts. It, too, has a 300 lb. load capacity and quickly converts from variable widths of 49 inches to 65 inches (at a 12-inch depth) to a narrower width of 48 inches (but at a 29-inch depth). You can get one at a rental center or from home centers and large hardware stores.

Ladder Stabilizer Safety

Apply this ironclad rule: When installing a stabilizer, position it so it will be between the house and the ladder. Be sure to also follow these other rules:

• Don’t use the type of stabilizers shown here on most folding (also called “articulated”) ladders. Use only the manufacturer’s recommended stabilizer for the model and duty rating of folding ladders.
• If necessary, enlist a helper to raise the ladder (with stabilizer) into position, especially around power lines and trees.
• Don’t stand on the stabilizer.
• Stabilizers aren’t load-rated to carry the additional weight of ladder jacks and walk planks hung from the ladders. Also, don’t use the stabilizer arms to support planks.
• Working aloft using old joint compound buckets to carry tools and materials is wonderfully efficient. For maximum safety, limit the weight of the filled bucket so the total load (including your weight) doesn’t exceed the capacity of either the ladder or the stabilizer. Tie a rope to the bucket, climb the ladder, haul the bucket up and tie it to the ladder rails, not the arms of the stabilizer. Stabilizers can give you an increased sense of security aloft, but know your limits! Avoid a mistake caused by overconfidence—like overreaching to get an additional 6 in. closer to a spot—that could lead to tragedy.