Those big screwheads in the threshold of a newer entry door aren’t just decorative; they raise or lower a narrow strip set in the threshold. So try this hack if you’ve noticed a draft under the door.

Adjust the Exterior Door Threshold

On a sunny day, turn off the lights and close nearby curtains. Lie down and look for daylight under the door. A sliver of light sneaking in at both corners of the door is normal. But if you see light between the threshold and the door, grab your screwdriver to begin how to replace a door threshold. Raise the threshold where light enters by turning the nearest screws counterclockwise.

Set a straightedge (such as a framing square) on the threshold and adjust the other screws to make sure the adjustable strip is straight. Close the door and check for light. Readjust the threshold until you’ve eliminated the light. But don’t raise the threshold so high that it presses too hard against the weatherstripping on the door. A too-tight fit will wear out the weatherstripping quickly.

If your car is overheating, smoking or otherwise running rough, it might be because your coolant temperature sensor has gone bad. Even though this can be a serious enough problem to cause engine failure, it won’t always throw a check engine light, so it’s important to know what signs to look out for.

From diagnosis to fixing the problem, here’s what to know about coolant temperature sensor replacement.

What Does the Coolant Temperature Sensor Do?

A car’s engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) monitors the coolant temperature. It then sends that information to the engine control module (ECM) or powertrain control module (PCM) so the computer can control the cooling fan, air-to-fuel ratio and spark timing.

Where Is the Coolant Temperature Sensor Located?

It depends on your vehicle’s make and model, but commonly the coolant temperature sensor is located near the thermostat housing, which is often toward the top of the engine by the intake manifold and cylinder heads. If it’s not there, it could be in a cylinder head integrated into the thermostat housing.

“Alternatively, the coolant temperature sensor can occasionally be found mounted on or very near the water pump housing on the engine as well,” says Paul Knoll, an automotive expert with American Muscle.

How To Tell If the Coolant Temperature Sensor Is Bad

Signs that your coolant temperature sensor may be bad include:

• The engine overheating or running too cool
• Erratic temperature gauge readings
• An illuminated check engine light or other temperature-related warning light on the dash
• The electric cooling fan constantly running, or never running
• Poor fuel efficiency
• A roughly running engine

If a failing sensor causes the computer to think the engine is running too cold, it might add too much fuel, causing the engine to crank excessively when starting, says Duane “Doc” Watson, a technical trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket. “With the fuel running so rich, you might smell fuel, see black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, or feel the engine running rough or shaking when stopped at a light,” he says.

To confirm if you need a coolant temperature sensor replacement, you can test it using a voltmeter or try Bosch’s VET 100 Circuit Analysis Tool 3920, which plugs into the sensor’s socket and is then paired with a diagnostic scan tool to help validate the wiring connections and accuracy of the sensor.

“You can also use a scan tool to see the temp signal and compare that to a laser temp gun aimed right at the coolant temp sensor,” says Chris “Moose” Pyle, a master certified technician with JustAnswer.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor?

Again, it depends on your vehicle’s make and model. Most sensors cost between $15 and $50. If you pay a mechanic to install it, labor usually takes 1 to 2.5 hours, which might end up costing between $150 and $400.

“There will also be some coolant lost during the procedure,” says Pyle. “So you may need a gallon of coolant as well which is about $15.”

How To Replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor Yourself

Allow the engine to cool completely to avoid injury.

• Locate the sensor and use compressed air to remove any debris. If other vehicle parts are blocking access to the sensor, you may also have to remove them.
• Drain coolant from the radiator as necessary. “If the coolant is in good health, then save it in a clean container so you can reuse it,” says Pyle.
• Carefully unplug the electrical connection and then remove the sensor. Consult a workshop or service manual for tools needed, such as a socket wrench, open-end wrench, pliers or screwdriver.
• Install the new sensor. If it doesn’t come with sealant already on the threads, apply a thin coat of RTV sealant or add or replace the o-rings. Be sure to only tighten it to the torque specs for your model and engine, as per the owner’s manual recommendations. “Typically, it’ll be somewhere around 15 to 18-inch pounds,” says Watson.
• Reconnect the electrical connector. If you choose, you may use a small amount of di-electric grease on the connector terminals to help keep water off of the pins, which would otherwise result in electrical resistance.
• Add coolant.
• Start the engine and check for coolant leaks around the sensor. Also, run the engine with the coolant camp off for a little while to work out any air pockets in the cooling system, says Pyle. “Use the correct coolant upon refill and make sure it is mixed correctly, especially for cold northern states,” he says.

While you’re at it, Knoll also recommends replacing the thermostat if it’s easily accessible, as those often fail around the same time.

Common Mistakes With Coolant Temperature Sensor Replacement

• Over-torquing/tightening the new sensor, which can damage the threads, the part and the intake manifold. “Coolant temperature sensors are designed with a tapered thread, which means the more you screw them in, the tighter they become on a plastic intake, which is what most manufacturers use today,” says Watson.
• Cross-threading the sensor, which can create coolant leaks.
• Forgetting to apply the sealant to the threads.
• Using the incorrect sensor. “I recommend an OEM part instead of a cheap aftermarket one,” says Pyle. “The OEM part is less likely to be a bad new part or fail prematurely.”
• Using the wrong coolant for your car. “Coolants with different chemical makeups don’t mix well,” says Watson. Again, check the owner’s manual for specifications.

Another common pitfall is installing a dissimilar metal, such as a brass sensor into an aluminum intake manifold, which can create electrolysis and cause corrosion in the engine. “If this happens and you attempt to remove the corroded sensor by breaking it loose, you risk breaking the sensor off inside the manifold, leading to another lengthy, costly repair to remove the stuck threads,” says Watson.

FAQs

Is it okay to drive with a bad coolant temperature sensor?

Not usually, because it can lead to your engine overheating. If you see a red warning light or your car is overheating, do not continue to drive. “That turns a $50 part into a possible $5,000 repair,” says Pyle.

If the engine is not overheating, it is probably safe to keep driving for a day or two, but try to get it into a shop as soon as possible. “If you’re noticing a harder start, smelling excessive fuel or experiencing your car running rough while at a stoplight, the situation might be less dire,” says Watson. “However, remember your car will be using a great deal more fuel in this state, which over time can damage your catalytic converter.”

Is it hard to replace the coolant temperature sensor?

It depends on where the sensor is located. If it’s easy to get to, “Replacing a coolant temperature sensor is generally considered a relatively straightforward job for someone with basic mechanical skills and the right tools,” says Knoll.

About the Experts

• Chris “Moose” Pyle is a master certified technician with 20-plus years of automotive experience. He specializes in gas and diesel engines, transmissions, steering, suspension, brakes and electrical diagnostics. He has also worked as an expert for JustAnswer.com since 2006.
• Duane “Doc” Watson is a technical trainer at Bosch Mobility Aftermarket. He has more than 45 years of experience in automotive repair, has trained thousands of technicians and earned many industry awards, including Chevrolet Technician of the Year and Buick Service Master of the Year.
• Paul Knoll is a dedicated car and truck enthusiast with a lifelong passion for vehicles and sharing his knowledge with the automotive community. He has worked his way up at AmericanMuscle.com and AmericanTrucks.com for more than a decade, and is currently marketing director.

My husband and I closed on our first home earlier this year. The real estate market was incredibly competitive, but we managed to find a place with all of our must-haves—a quiet neighborhood, big backyard, finished basement—and one feature that we weren’t necessarily looking for: An in-ground pool.  

As new pool owners, we were surprised by how much work maintaining a pool requires: monitoring chemical levels, skimming, and vacuuming. We wanted to enjoy our pool, not add another half-dozen tasks to our to-do list! Needless to say, when an opportunity arose to test the Wybot C1 Robotic Pool Cleaner, I jumped at the chance. Less time cleaning and more time lounging poolside? Yes, please! 

What is the Wybot C1 Robotic Pool Cleaner? 

The Wybot C1 Robotic Pool Cleaner is an automatic pool vacuum. Like other automatic pool vacuums, this machine sucks up leaves, insects, and other debris to help keep your pool pristine, as well as cleans your waterline. This sleek robot is powered by a rechargeable lithium-ion battery that lasts up to 150 minutes. 

This compact machine measures 14 inches by 13 inches, so it’ll fit right alongside the rest of your pool gear in your shed or garage. It also has a carrying handle, so you can easily lower it into your pool and fish it out when it has finished its cleaning cycle. Weighing just under 23 pounds, the Wybot C1 feels substantial but light enough for most family members to use. 

In a world where robotic pool cleaners can cost well over a thousand dollars, the Wybot C1 Cordless Robotic Pool Cleaner, at a moderate $400, is a budget-friendly option for pool owners.  

Wybot C1 Pool Cleaner Product Features 

The Wybot C1 Pool Cleaner comes with a charger, optional attachments to help it tackle slippery surfaces and a plastic hook that can be attached to your pool pole. It is also equipped with a water pump motor, which achieves a maximum filtration rate of 2642 GPH (gallons per hour) and dual PVC brushes, which help it grip cement, vinyl, tile or fiberglass surfaces. 

Users must download the free Wybot app to indicate their pool shape, slope, and material and select cleaning modes (floor, walls, or both) and paths. After setting up their preferred cleaning cycle, you’re ready to lower the Wybot into the water and watch him get to work (which, admittedly, is very entertaining). 

The filter basket is easy to remove and clean, requiring just a quick rinse from the garden hose after service. The basket features a fine mesh, so it traps small debris and insects. 

How We Tested It 

I tested the Wybot a few weeks after my pool had been initially opened and cleaned by a local pool cleaning company. Our pool is bordered by our lawn and surrounded by trees and shrubs—a good amount of leaves, grass clippings, and debris had collected on the bottom when I got around to testing the machine.  

The Wybot took about two hours to fully charge and ultimately lasted about two hours, but was able to fully clean the walls and floor in that time. My pool is moderately sized: 14 feet by 28 feet, with a sloped bottom—folks with larger pools will likely need to opt for cleaning the walls or floors at a time, not both.  

Using the Wybot for the first time was a little confusing as the English translation in both the user manual and the app was, at times, a bit unclear. At the time of this review, the app was rated a concerning 2 stars, and for good reason. I found that whenever I made changes in the app, for example, selecting a different cleaning mode, it would crash and close. The app also offers fairly limited functionality: it does not display basic information about your robot, like battery life or how long the cleaning cycle is. You are unable to review your cleaning history or see a completed cleaning map like you can with a traditional vacuum robot.  

After a few tries, I was able to select my preferred cleaning mode and put the Wybot to work. It slowly sinks to the bottom and then begins to methodically clean in its signature N, star or grid pattern. The Wybot scoots around the pool at a fairly rapid pace, occasionally using its water pump motor to rise to the surface and change direction.  

My pool has a vinyl liner, so the machine had no problem climbing to clean the walls and waterline. However, the liner has creased in a few places, and the Wybot struggled to clean debris from those areas. Instead of stairs, we have two pool ladders, which the Wybot had some difficulty navigating—one day it even managed to lodge itself between the ladder and the wall and needed to be rescued. 

Despite these setbacks, I was very impressed with Wybot’s work overall: It managed to clean both my pool’s walls and floor in just two hours.  

Pros 

• Cordless—no wires or hoses to get tangled or dislodged 
• Strong suction 
• Short charging time 
• Features mapping technology 
• Easy-to-clean filter basket 
• Able to climb steps, walls and waterline 
• Quiet when cleaning underwater 
• Two-year warranty, 30-day return period 
• Fun to watch (my guests loved to watch it work!) 

  Cons 

• App regularly crashes during use 
• Some difficulty navigating ladders 
• No cleaning history in the app 

FAQ 

Can you leave Wybot pool cleaner in the pool all the time? 

No, the Wybot C1, like other automatic pool cleaners should be removed from the pool after each cleaning cycle. After cleaning, you should let the Wybot drain, rinse and replace the filter basket and store it in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. 

What pool shapes and materials is the Wybot suitable for?  

The Wybot C1 can be used in rectangle, oval, or irregularly shaped in-ground swimming pools. The machine can be used on pools made of PVC and gunite. For slippery materials, like tiles, mosaics or fiberglass, users should add the included “floating parts” accessories to the machine. 

What Other Reviewers Had to Say 

Other reviewers had similar experiences to my own, they are impressed with how easy it is to use and how well it cleans but are frustrated with the low quality of the app.  

Gina R., who left a five-star review on Amazon, praises its ability to vacuum small debris, “It’s the tiny debris that I had a hard time getting out of my pool, though, and the Wybot pool cleaner does an excellent job of getting the sand and small bugs vacuumed up! … [T]he filter basket has a very good quality fine mesh that captures and holds the tiny debris it has vacuumed. I’m very happy with this item!” 

Another five-star review came from Kevin F. who praises Wybot’s performance, “I am extremely impressed with this product. We have ordered [others] before including a more expensive [model]. Neither of them worked as advertised. The Wybot has been amazing. It climbs the wall when others do not even though they are supposed to. It cleans very well with great suction power. I am beyond happy with its performance.” 

Ahmad R. ultimately returned the Wybot after a frustrating experience with the app and left a one-star review, “The actual cleaner itself was a nice piece of engineering, and did navigate around the pool as advertised. But the app that controls the cleaner is a piece of garbage. It worked once, and then never again.” 

Final Verdict 

The Wybot C1 Robotic Pool Cleaner is an essential piece of pool equipment. After using it for a few weeks, I can’t imagine cleaning the pool any other way. It cleans the floor, walls and waterline effectively, and is so quiet and unobtrusive that we’ll have it working while we’re swimming in the pool. While I did find the app to be frustrating at times, ultimately I was able to connect to the machine, set up my cleaning cycles and launch it without any major hiccups. Because the app is a bit finicky, I wouldn’t recommend the Wybot for people who aren’t tech-savvy. Though the interface is fairly straightforward, the slow connection speeds and instability will likely frustrate those users. 

I’ve been impressed with Wybot’s work so far, and I’m confident it’ll continue to keep my pool crystal clear this summer. If you’re looking for a moderately priced cordless pool vacuum, you’re sure to be happy with the Wybot C1 pool cleaner.  

Where to Purchase the Wybot C1 Pool Cleaner

The Wybot C1 Pool Cleaner is available on Amazon, the Wybot website and Walmart for around $400.

Under every drain in your house, there’s a trap, known as the p-trap, that holds water and prevents sewer gas from flowing up into the air you breathe. But if you have an abandoned shower in a spare bathroom or a floor drain in the basement that never gets used, the water in the trap can eventually evaporate. That lets in stinky—or even dangerous—sewer gases. So, how do you keep the water in the p-trap from evaporating and the air from filling with sulfuric odor?

Cooking oil. It’s a little trick we’ve learned over the years at Family Handyman by chatting with plumbers and homeowners.

How To Get Rid of Smelly Drains

For starters, if the water in your p-trap has evaporated, pour a bucket of water down the drain to refill the trap. Then add the oil, about a teaspoon for each inch of the pipe’s diameter.

The floating oil forms a seal over the water and prevents evaporation—without raising your cholesterol.

In my home, we get our water from a deep well, and—as is often the case with well water—it’s hard. Ever since I learned how to install a water softener from a local plumber, we’ve had a welcome respite from the problems hard water causes around the house.

What is hard water, you ask? Well, in the simplest terms, it’s water with a high mineral content, but there’s a more precise definition. According to Kelly Russum, a plumber who serves California’s Coachella Valley, water analysts measure hardness in GPG (grains per gallon), where one grain is 64.8 mg. of calcium. “Soft water has GPG lower than 1, and hard water is considered when GPG is 7 or more.” In other words, a gallon of hard water contains half a gram of minerals — usually more.

Water with a high mineral content causes all sorts of problems, including:

• Mineral stains on bathroom fixtures, faucets and other appliances;
• Sediment buildup in water heater tanks;
• Blockages in faucets and plumbing pipes;
• Dry hair, itchy skin and reduced effectiveness of soap.
• Foul-tasting and discolored drinking water. This is primarily caused by iron, which is one of the minerals commonly found in hard water.

You don’t have to get your water from a well to have hard water. Community water in many municipalities is also hard enough to cause mineral stains and make showering unpleasant.

The solution is to install a water softener. Our experts explain what that is, what different types are available and what’s involved with installation and maintenance.

What Is a Water Softener?

A water softener is basically a filter, but unlike one that removes chlorine, pesticides and heavy metals, it’s designed to remove minerals like calcium, magnesium and iron from the water supply. A typical system consists of a cylindrical inflow tank ranging in diameter from eight to 14 inches and in height from 44 to 65 inches and a separate brine tank containing a solution of sodium chloride or potassium chloride.

“There are whole-house water softeners and under-counter water softeners,” advises South Carolina-based plumber Justin Cornforth. “I recommend opting for whole-house systems because they ensure that all appliances in your home and plumbing systems receive softened water.”

How Does a Water Softener Work?

Josh Rubin, a Certified Restorer from Phoenix, AZ, explains the operation of the salt-ion water softener: “It works by removing minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium, from hard water through a process called ion exchange. Put simply, that’s a way to remove and replace the minerals that cause hard water.”

A water softener tank contains a large quantity of resin beads, forming the bed through which water flows into the building. The beads are charged with sodium or potassium ions supplied from the brine tank, and as hard water passes through, the mineral ions are electrically attracted to the beads and displace the sodium or potassium ions, which take their place in the water. “In this process,” says Rudin, “salt is liberated into the water while calcium and magnesium are pulled out.”

The beads eventually become saturated, so the system has to complete a regeneration cycle every week or so. In this cycle, the brine solution is flushed through the tank to restore the salt ions and wash the accumulated minerals down the drain. Most systems do this automatically.

Types of Water Softener Systems

You can choose from one of three types of water-softening systems:

• Salt-based: This is the type described above. “They are the most common and effective type for significant hard water issues,” according to Asif Bux, a plumber from Calgary, Alberta.
• Salt-free: These systems, according to Russum, use potassium chloride instead of sodium, acting as water conditioners rather than removing minerals. “People concerned about sodium consumption may prefer these types of softeners,” he advises.
• Reverse osmosis: Cornforth explains, “Reverse osmosis water softeners are a good option for homes where you want to remove a wide range of contaminants such as PFAs, TDS, chlorine, heavy metals, VOCs, odors, rust, sediment and more.” They are generally point-of-use rather than whole-house systems.

Advantages of Having a Water Softener

All our experts agree with Russum, who says that soft water will positively affect your plumbing system. “It won’t leave mineral deposits in your pipes, and as a result, you can also save money on your energy bills because, with scale-free pipes, your water heater won’t have to work as hard.” Some other benefits include:

• Longer-lasting home appliances;
• Elimination of hard-to-clean minerals stains;
• Improved soap efficiency;
• Softer skin and hair.

Downsides of Having a Water Softener

Rudin and Bux point out that extra maintenance and installation costs are downsides to a water softener system. They also cite the potential dangers of elevated salt content in soft water for people with certain health issues and the negative environmental consequences of disposing of brine wastewater. It’s worth noting that you can mitigate these problems by choosing a system that uses potassium instead of sodium.

Russum also flags elevated salt content as a potential problem and adds two more: “The process used to soften water also makes it more volatile, which means it collects more unwanted elements from your pipes. These elements can include lead, making it potentially more dangerous. A water softener wastes up to 120 gallons of water for every 1,000 gallons, so you’ll notice a noticeable increase in your water bill.”

How to Choose a Water Softener

The two most important considerations in choosing a water softener system are the hardness level of your water and the amount of water you use. According to the Department of Energy, weekly grain capacities (number of grains the unit can handle before regeneration) of 16,000 to 32,000 are suitable for small houses, apartments and RVs, while medium to large households would need a grain capacity from 40,000 to 100,000. Many manufacturers and retail sites offer charts that allow you to choose the correct size based on your usage and the hardness of your water (which you can determine by sending a water sample to a lab for testing).

How To Install a Water Softener

A typical water softener consists of two tanks: the softener tank that contains the resin beads and the brine tank. Here’s a quick rundown of the installation process:

1. Install a bypass loop in the building’s water supply. One leg of the loop directs water into the tank, and the other one directs the outflow back into the water supply.
2. Connect the brine tank to the softener tank. You usually do this with plastic tubing that is supplied with the unit.
3. Install a drain pipe from the brine tank to the sewer. If it’s close enough, plumbers often make this connection at the washing machine standpipe.
4. Wire the controller that regulates automatic regeneration into the building’s electrical system. This often involves just plugging it into a standard receptacle.

How Much Does it Cost to Install a Water Softener System?

“The most basic, entry-level softening systems start around $500 for just the components themselves, not including installation,” says Rudin. “It’s possible you can get it done for less than this, but it would require massive deal hunting — and possibly a number of failed softening systems — before success.”

Bux and Cornforth put a high end on equipment costs between $2,500 and $3,000, and when you factor in labor, Russum warns the maximum cost can be as high as $11,000. However, Russum warns that it’s almost impossible to answer this question definitively.

Can You Install a Water Softener Yourself?

If you have the plumbing skills, you can probably install an under-counter water softener yourself, but trying to install a whole-house system is a different matter. “It’s not an easy task, and if you don’t know exactly what you are doing, it’s certainly possible to cause damage in the process of installation,” says Rudin. Russum adds that some regions may require a licensed plumber to perform the installation.

How Often to Add Salt to Your Water Softener

Some systems have low-salt indicators that alert you when it’s time to add salt. In the absence of an indicator, you need to check the salt yourself and add more when it falls below the required level. Bux recommends doing this every four to six weeks.

Should I Use Salt Pellets or Crystals?

Bux recommends pellets. They cost more than crystals, but they don’t have any additives, which means purer water overall. Moreover, they don’t dissolve as quickly, so they last longer in households with particularly hard water. However, check the requirements for your system before purchasing salt. Cornforth warns that using the wrong type of salt that can cause clogging and inefficient operation.

About the Experts

• Kelly Russum founded KC’s 23 ½ Hour Plumbing in 1978. He has been the go-to plumber for countless Coachella Valley residents ever since.
• Justin Cornforth is the owner of Ace Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air, based in Anderson, SC. It’s a family-owned company founded in 2017.
• Josh Rudin is a Certified Restorer and the owner of ASAP Restoration, LLC, serving Phoenix, AZ and surrounding areas.
• Asif Bux is the owner and service manager of Comfort Union, a licensed HVAC, Plumbing and Electrical company located in Calgary, Alberta

Sources

• Energy.gov: Purchasing and Maintaining A Water Softener

When it comes to property maintenance, having the right tools and machinery can turn a multi-weekend project into an afternoon task. So, having a single tool that can plow, tow, haul, dump and even help take the garbage bins out is a major deal. The newest Polaris Ranger—the 2025 XP 1000 NorthStar—is just that tool.

Those who are familiar with utility-task vehicles (UTV) know that Polaris is a trusted name in the industry. The company, which began making snowmobiles in the 1950s, designs and manufactures everything from motorcycles and pontoon boats to ATVs and side-by-side utility-task vehicles.

Their 2025 Ranger lineup includes customer-driven improvements like increased durability, better transmission and more included features like a 7-inch display console and built-in sound system from JBL (which is one of our favorite home speaker companies).

I got to try out the premium and ultimate versions of the 2025 Polaris NorthStar myself to get a feel for the performance and functionality of these home improvement powerhouses.

What is the Polaris Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar?

Ranger is a brand of side-by-side off-road vehicles that look like a pick-up truck, but are closer to the size of a golf cart. They have power steering, gas and brake pedals, gear shift, and bench seating in the cab, a reinforced front bumper and grille, and a large truck bed that can be tilted up with a simple latch system.

The Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar is equipped with a closed cab that’s decked out with heating and air conditioning, a plethora of cup holders and storage, a console with GPS and trail maps, and built-in speakers that can connect to your phone. Paired with the 82-horsepower engine, 2,500 pound towing capacity and 1,000 pound carrying capacity, the Polaris NorthStar can be used to assist with lawn maintenance on large residential properties, daily chores on farms and ranches, and even getting docks and boats in and out of the water.

The powerful and thoughtful design of this revamped Ranger is something to behold. I found it to not only have the versatility and strength to tackle just about any outdoor chore, but it’ll also keep you comfortable while you do it.

Polaris Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar Product Features

Closed Cab

One of the best aspects of this UTV is the completely enclosed cab. Riding around in the NorthStar on a Texas ranch meant a lot, and I mean a lot, of kicked-up dirt, dust, mud and water, which would have been pretty miserable without the closed cab and filtered air system.

In addition to clean air, you can also adjust the Polaris NorthStar’s temperature with heating and air conditioning. The former was a lifesaver in the Texas heat and the latter will make early morning snow removal a much more enjoyable experience. If you want to appreciate some good weather or coordinate with someone outside the vehicle, you can always roll down the windows. The ultimate NorthStar has power windows while the premium has crank windows. For even more flexibility, the ultimate NorthStar has a tip-out windshield that’ll make you feel like you’re in an open cab.

I also really appreciate the thoughtfulness of the cab’s design. The bench seats and rear-hinged doors allow for easy in and out, which is really handy when working on a project. Plus, the LED headlights switch is conveniently located to the left of the steering wheel so you can quickly illuminate what you’re working on, even when you’re out of the UTV.

Included Tech

The ultimate edition of the Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar comes standard with some pretty cool electronics, the first being a 7-inch touchscreen display with Ride Command. This free program is an integrated GPS system where you can load existing trails, map new trails, view and communicate with other Polaris vehicles or snowmobiles, utilize a backup camera and, of course, see drive information like the speed, gas level and direction. To take things to the next level, you can add a Ride Command+ subscription that provides vehicle maintenance and diagnostic information so your ride stays in tip-top shape.

Also included with the ultimate edition is an all-new sound system backed up by JBL speakers. I can attest that these speakers sound great and are loud. You’ll have no trouble hearing the radio or streaming music while riding or working outside the UTV. You can connect your phone via Bluetooth to sync with Ride Command to listen to music and get texts and calls, or plug in your phone with the USB port when you’re low on battery.

Power and Durability

A big selling point for the 2025 Polaris Ranger line is the upgraded front end. The redesigned front bumper and grille are larger and more durable than previous iterations, for improved performance and appearance. Attached to the front end is a heavy-duty winch with a synthetic rope and auto-stop feature that will make light work of downed trees, loading items onto a trailer or pulling yourself or another vehicle out of a stuck spot.

With an 82-horsepower engine and new Gen 2 transmission, the Polaris Ranger XP 1000s shift easily between gears and can reach up to 60 miles per hour. When paired with the unit’s three throttle control modes (performance, standard, work) you can expect to power over rough terrain and steep slopes, and have more acceleration control.

The NorthStar ultimate and premium are now equipped with 29-inch wheels and four-wheel, two-wheel and one-wheel drive, the latter of which can be used to preserve wet grass or other fragile ground from being torn up while you work. The larger wheels and 14-inch ground clearance mean you can stay dry when driving through flooded fields or low waterways.

Versatility and Add-Ons

There are almost endless uses for the Polaris Ranger NorthStar. The large cargo box can hold up to a thousand pounds and has a simple lever latch that allows you to tip the box up. This is incredibly helpful when moving heavy rocks, transporting and laying mulch, or planting trees and other large plants around your property.

The cargo box also has corrugated sides and bed to securely hold storage containers and tool boxes or partition the bed into separate sections. Additionally, hitch a trailer to the back and use the 2,500 pound towing capacity to move heavy equipment, lawn tools, decking or even a light boat.

Like there are many ways to upgrade a utility trailer, there are a ton of add-ons and accessories available for the Ranger NorthStar line. From storage racks and bed extenders to hydraulic lifts, generators and covers, Polaris has all the gear you can imagine on their website and Amazon. Two of my favorite add-ons are the snow plow and trash can hauler which turn cumbersome chores into a fun (and productive!) ride. If you’re not quite sure which accessories would work best for you, Polaris offers six packages that filter down common tools and add-ons for large properties, farm work, hunting, trail riding and winter prep.

How We Tested It

I got the chance to test out the Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar premium and ultimate vehicles at a ranch in Texas. I drove the premium NorthStar (the unit without a dash display and speakers) for about five hours and the ultimate (with those features) for about an hour and a half, mostly off-road. This included rocky ground, dusty trails, low waterways and up and down steep slopes. Here’s what I thought.

Ride Performance

Starting to ride this side-by-side couldn’t have been easier. After hopping into the UTV, I just turned the key, pushed the gear shift and started driving. I started off on a dusty dirt road, and can this thing move. Though the top speed is 60 miles per hour, even going half that made me feel like I was flying. This would be incredibly convenient for those with especially large properties to move around in a flash.

Once I switched over to off-trail riding, the strength of the Ranger NorthStar really shined. Despite being met with rocky earth that verged on boulders, the vehicle in four-wheel drive powered through without missing a beat. I was actually pretty impressed with how smooth the ride was, given the uneven terrain. Don’t get me wrong, there were certainly bumps, but I never felt jolted or overly jostled, likely because of the larger tires and dual a-arm suspension.

When I was met with steep up or downward slopes, I tried out the performance and work throttles. When engaged, these modes definitely gave the UTV more power and control when moving up and down steep hills. Rather than sliding down or back a big decline/incline, the Ranger gripped the road and moved evenly, even when moving slowly.

Speaking of grip, I also drove the side-by-side through a few flooded spots on the trail as well as a flooded road. Though the water was about a foot deep, the vehicle had no problem driving through the water. It should be noted that even with the large tires, high clearance and sealed suspension, if you drive through water higher than the clearance, you will get a bit of moisture in the floor of the cab. That’s fairly high, though, and I didn’t experience any water issues during my drive.

Something that I particularly enjoyed about riding these Rangers was the improved powered steering. The vehicle was incredibly easy to navigate, and even surprisingly nimble with a 160-inch turning radius. I could definitely see these side-by-sides being incredibly useful in cleaning up and maintaining a large home property.

Comfort

When it comes to creature comforts, it doesn’t get much better than the Ranger XP 1000 NorthStar. When I first saw the bench seats and small, glass-mounted headrests, I was a bit nervous about how my body would feel after a few hours of driving. My fears were unfounded though, and I was pleasantly surprised at how comfortable I was. If you’re planning on riding around all day, every day, I could see you wanting to add more lumbar support or an extra seat cushion (our favorite seat cushion is in this list of the best car accessories), but more casual users will be perfectly content with the bench alone. The steering wheel can be tilted front and back, so it can be adjusted for drivers of different heights and sizes.

One of the best parts of this vehicle is the closed cab and climate control. As I mentioned, I drove the side-by-side off-road in Texas, which meant very hot and dusty rides. The HVAC system kept about 99% of the debris out (I had just a touch of dirt around my sunglass line and in my nostrils after several hours of driving). The air conditioning was an actual lifesaver. Even though it was only mid-April, it was extremely hot and sunny out and the air conditioning in the cab worked quickly and consistently to keep me cool. I can only imagine how great the heating element would be in the winter months, especially if you have to do some early morning plowing.

For the time I was able to drive the ultimate model, I made full use of the JBL speaker system and display screen. Using Bluetooth, my iPhone connected with little effort and I cranked the tunes. My music could be easily heard over the rumble of the engine and clearly heard outside the cab when the doors were open. When it comes to the touchscreen display, my favorite part was seeing the other Rangers in my group driving the trail through Ride Command. If you have multiple Polaris vehicles on a farm or together for an off-roading trip, making sure everyone is accounted for is a huge safety plus.

For those who are only interested in owning one Ranger NorthStar, I understand going with the paired-down premium version, without the display and sound system. This was the model I drove the most and it was great. It’s certainly more utilitarian and cheaper (the premium Ranger NorthStar is five grand less than the ultimate) but I will say I did miss the additional tech of the ultimate after switching back to the premium. There’s just something about riding around with the music blasting!

Usability

The 2025 line has all the functionality and versatility of the Ranger’s previous iterations, plus a few bells and whistles. On the front of the side-by-side is a new front bumper and grille that will protect the front of the cab (and, well, you) from bumps and hits while driving as well as when pulling something on the winch. The winch itself is built into the UTV with a synthetic rope to resist fraying and a handy auto-stop that’ll keep the end of the rope from being rolled into the winch. Plus, the winch is remote-controlled, so you can pull or release items from a safe distance.

At the back of the Ranger, the bed can be titled up with a lever near the middle of the vehicle. I was surprised how easily the bed lifted once unlatched, thanks to the added hydraulics. This means moving and dumping rocks, dirt, feed or sand are much more manageable tasks than if you had a wheelbarrow alone. Also, if you add a winch to the top of the cab, you can pull large logs or game hands-free into the bed, which will totally save your back. Once tiled up, you can get a good look at the upgraded ProStar engine and can perform routine maintenance as needed.

As I mentioned before, the bed of the truck has grooves along the bottom and up the sides to more securely hold storage bins, tool boxes and coolers. You can also partition the bed with a couple of boards as dividers. Additionally, there are round and rectangular holes all along the top of the walls where you can install storage or tool racks, mounts, a bed extender or flag pole, the options are extensive. An example of how thoughtful the design of this side-by-side is the inclusion of four cupholder spots on the tailgate so you can keep your beverage close as you work outside the vehicle.

Pros

• Closed cab with effective air filtration and climate control
• Powerful engine with lots of control
• Smoother ride
• JBL sound system standard on ultimate
• Very versatile
• Display includes GPS, trails and tracking other Polaris products

Cons

• Expensive
• Might be overkill if you have a smaller property, or only casually hunt or trail ride
• Add-ons can be pricey, especially when purchasing multiple

FAQ

What’s the difference between a Polaris Ranger 1000 and a Polaris Ranger 1000 XP?

According to the Polaris website, the Ranger 1000 and Ranger 1000 XP are very similar, but the 1000 XP has a newer engine with more horsepower (82 hp vs. 61 hp) as well as better seats, suspension and ground clearance.

How fast does a Polaris Ranger XP 1000 go?

The Polaris Ranger XP 1000 has a top speed of 60 mph, so you can zip around a farm or large property (or between multiple properties) in a snap.

How much does a Polaris Ranger Northstar weigh?

The Polaris NorthStar is an estimated 1913 pounds with a payload capacity of 1275 pounds.

Are Polaris Rangers reliable?

Yes, Rangers are reliable, Polaris is one of the top brands in the UTV industry. In addition to the durability upgrades for the 2025 line, Polaris also offers 1-year limited and 1-year factory warranty for these vehicles. You can also purchase additional or extended coverage with the Polaris Protection Plan which covers mechanical and electric parts, repairs, trip protection and vehicle pickup.

Can-Am vs Polaris

The most similar product on the market to the Polaris NorthStar ultimate is the Defender Limited from Cam-Am. These UTVs are closed cabs that seat 3 with same horsepower, ground clearance, box capacity, towing capacity and wheel drive options, and both have a dump bed, rear camera, tilt windshield with wipers, LED headlights and lots of add-on options. The Defender and Ranger are also similar in overall size. The base Cam-Am Defender costs $29,899 and the base Polaris NorthStar ultimate is $32,999 (the premium version comes in at $27,999).

While both UTVs have a display screen, the Polaris NorthStar’s is much more sophisticated. For one, it’s a large touchscreen that can display GPS coordinates and directions, driving information and control the music. The Defender’s display, on the other hand, is a rectangle above the steering wheel that only displays driving information. Similarly, the Defender’s HVAC control is a single knob for the temperature and fan levels, whereas the NorthStar has separate knobs and a defrost switch.

The Defender does not come with a sound system standard, like the Ranger NorthStar ultimate does, but one can be added when building your vehicle for an additional $930-1,120.

If the upgraded tech isn’t enough to sway you to the Polaris NorthStar, I’d recommend testing each of these vehicles out for yourself at a local dealership. They are so close in specs and price, your personal ride experience and needs are even more important.

Final Verdict

If you have a large property or farm, multiple properties, trail ride, hunt or just work on a ton of outdoor chores, the Polaris 100 XP NorthStar ultimate or premium are definitely worth the high price tag. The vehicles are so versatile, especially with add-ons, and the closed cab and HVAC allow you to work all year round. Paired with the stellar tech and sound system of the ultimate edition, this is a top-tier tool.

Where to Buy the Polaris Ranger NorthStar

You can purchase the 2025 Polaris Ranger NorthStar ultimate and premium at a local dealership. You can also customize your UTV on the Polaris website and then be connected to dealer close to you to fulfill your order. RANGER add-ons, replacements, accessories and merch can be purchased on the Polaris store or Amazon storefront.

Spring nights are made for open windows and great sleep. But if your interior doors are out of adjustment, they’ll rattle every time the breeze kicks up. The problem is always caused by a gap between the door stop and the door. Here are three simple fixes.

Bend the Tang

The simplest fix is to bend the little tang on the strike plate toward the door. When the door latches, it pushes the door toward the stop just a bit and holds the latch a little tighter, sometimes enough to silence the door. It doesn’t always work, but it’s worth a shot. A pair of pliers always hacks up the finish on the plate, so use two adjustable wrenches instead.

Use a Self-Adhesive

The next easiest fix is to shim any gaps with self-adhesive “dots,” which are usually used to soften cabinet doors and drawer closes. You’ll find them near the cabinet hardware at the store. The clear dots that blend in with the door finish are the least obvious.

Shift the door

The harder (but more elegant) fix is to actually shift the door stop so it’s tight against the door. If there’s paint and/or caulk between the door and the wall, score it first with a utility knife. Then, use a block and smack the stop tight against the door. The existing nails will shift quite a bit but may hold the stop away from the jamb when they bend. If that happens, use the block again to smack the stop flat to the jamb to flatten the nails.

Check the door operation to make sure it doesn’t drag on the stop before you renail it. Here’s the downside: With painted or stained trim, there may be some retouching required.

Relegated to a closet or a basement corner, a water heater lives a secluded life of quiet service, and its warning signs often go unheeded. For example, when enough sediment collects on the bottom of the tank to interfere with heating, a water heater may produce popping and crackling sounds. Most homeowners never get close enough to hear these sounds, which could be signs of an impending leak or one that has already started.

Sediment can also gum up the drain valve and cause leaks. You might get lucky and find a way to stop such a leak by tightening something, but for a long-term fix, master plumber Roy Barnes advises that replacing the valve is usually the best option. And while you’re at it, you can flush out that sediment. When I put on my plumbing hat, that’s something I’ve done on several occasions.

This post explains how to identify a leaking water heater drain valve and what to do about it.

What Is a Water Heater Drain Valve?

Tank-style water heaters (not on-demand ones) store water in a glass-lined steel tank. The drain valve is a spigot installed on the side of the tank near the bottom.

The valve may be made of plastic, but the best ones are brass. “Existing valves on most water heaters are not full port valves,” says Barnes. “This means they are not the actual pipe diameter and will hold debris while trying to drain the tank.” If you haven’t flushed your water heater for a while, and sediment has built up, you may find that the tank takes a long time to drain. That’s another sign that it’s time to replace the valve.

Signs of a Leaking Drain Valve

Water on the floor at the water heater’s base is a sure sign of a leak. The water might be coming from the temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve), though.

To make sure the drain valve is the culprit, look for signs of active leaking from that valve. You might see drips or even a steady stream of water flowing from the spout, handle or gasket connecting it to the tank.

• Pro tip: If the T&P valve leaks, it could indicate dangerously high pressure in the tank. Lower the temperature to 120 F and note whether the leak stops. If not, the valve may have been compromised by scale, which is preventing it from closing all the way, and it probably needs to be replaced.

What Causes a Drain Valve to Leak?

Water heater drain valves are usually screwed in tight enough at the factory to prevent leaking from the threads. However, if you see water dripping or spraying from the base of the valve, where it connects to the tank, it could be slightly loose. You might be able to stop the leak by tightening the valve with a pipe wrench, but be careful not to overdo it. You could break the valve, and if the tank is full of hot water, that’s dangerous. As a precaution, you should turn off the gas or electricity and let the water cool before you attempt this.

When a valve leaks from the spout, the cause is usually sediment or scale collecting inside the valve housing, preventing the valve from closing all the way. If your tank has a compression-style valve that you have to rotate through multiple turns to open and close, it may leak from the handle because the packing is worn out.

How to Replace the Drain Valve on a Water Heater

You’ll need to turn off the water heater and the cold water valve, let the water cool and drain the tank before you can replace the drain valve (so prepare to be without hot water for at least the rest of the day). Here’s a quick rundown of the procedure:

1. Attach a hose to the drain valve, open the valve, and let water flow out to a place from where it can drain safely. You’ll need to let air into the tank to displace the water, and in most cases, you can do this by opening hot water faucets in the house.
2. Put a bucket under the valve to catch residual water and unscrew the valve using a pipe wrench.
3. Prepare the new valve. Barnes recommends assembling a brass nipple and a full-port valve rather than installing a standard drain valve. “A full-port valve is the actual diameter of the pipe, which will allow you to drain sediment and larger debris through that line.”
4. Screw the nipple into the tank and tighten it. Screw the valve onto the nipple, and screw a hose adapter onto the valve outlet, so you can attach a garden hose.
   • Pro tip: Don’t forget to seal all thread connections with plumbing tape or pipe dope.
5. Close the new drain valve and all the faucets you opened, turn on the cold water and let the tank fill. Finish up by turning the water heater back on.

When to Call a Plumber to Fix a Leaking Drain Valve

You may need a plumber’s assessment of the situation if you see water leaking from any place other than the drain valve or T&P valve. Additionally, don’t hesitate to call a plumber if the drain valve breaks when you’re trying to remove it or if you notice excessive corrosion on the threads.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Water Heater Drain Valve?

Plumbers charge from $75 to $150 per hour, and the actual procedure for swapping out the drain valve shouldn’t take much more than an hour. You can avoid extra charges by draining the tank yourself. If the plumber has to do this, you’ll probably have to pay for one or more hours of labor.

FAQs

Can you cap a leaking drain valve?

Yes. You can screw a brass garden hose end cap onto the hose threads. If the valve is leaking from the spout, this should stop the leak.

Can you replace a drain valve without draining the water heater?

No. Draining the tank is an absolute prerequisite to replacing the drain valve. If you have to replace the T&P valve, you only need to partially drain the tank until the water level is below the level of the valve.

Do all water heaters have a drain valve?

Yes, every tank-style water heater has a drain valve. If it didn’t, you wouldn’t be able to empty the water, so you can move it.

About the Expert

• Roy Barnes is co-owner of Maryland-based Service Force Plumbing together with his partner, Hendrik Vandepoll. He has been in the trade for 30 years.

Whether you need to fit pavers together or trim up a patio, it could very well require cutting concrete with a saw. It’s a physically demanding job, but it can be manageable if you choose the correct tools and practice key techniques.

If you’re embarking on a concrete project, here’s how to set yourself up for success with cutting concrete.

What Tools Do You Need for Cutting Concrete?

To cut concrete, people commonly use a handheld circular saw and diamond-bit blade, but you can also use:

• A table saw, which makes it easier for beginners to make straight or mitered cuts;
• An angle grinder, for small and detailed projects like thin veneer and pavers; and
• A chainsaw for larger projects.

Some saws are classified as wet saws, which require a water source. They are great for helping to keep dust down, especially indoors where there is less ventilation. The downside is that they are less maneuverable. Whichever saw you use, you will also need a diamond-bit blade.

What Type of Saw Blades Do You Need for Cutting Concrete?

Diamond-tipped blades are required for cutting concrete. Choose a blade hardness that matches the material you’re cutting.

“If it’s relatively soft, coarse concrete such as that [is] found in wall block, you want a blade that won’t wear down quickly,” says Jeremy Martin of Willow Gates Landscaping. “If you’re cutting hard, dense concrete with a finer aggregate such as concrete pavers or some natural stone, you need a blade that will wear down faster to expose fresh diamonds to continue cutting.”

How To Cut Concrete

If you are concrete saw-cutting concrete:

• Prep the area by clearing it of debris, especially metals that could get caught in the blade.
• Adjust the saw for the desired depth of the cut.
• Mark the lines you want to cut using chalk, a marker, paint or a grease pen. “Make sure to mark these spots completely and clearly to prevent missing them when concrete dust goes everywhere,” says Brandon Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration.
• Put on safety gear, including eye and ear protection. Wear a respirator to prevent inhaling dust. A protective suit can also help you avoid getting covered in dust and debris.
• If you’re making wet cuts, keep a consistent water supply running, preventing the saw blade from overheating, binding or warping. For dry cutting, let the blade cool down every 30 to 45 seconds.
• Before placing the blade on the concrete, let it get up to speed, then lower it onto the surface slowly to prevent it from binding.
• As you cut, keep your blade squared up with the line of your mark.
• Once you’ve finished your cut line, release the trigger and let the blade spin down inside the cut before removing it from the cutting area.
• Clean up the dust. “Vacuums are best for cleaning up concrete dust because they prevent spreading and aeration caused by brooms while sweeping,” says Walker.

Also, whenever possible, bring the saw to the work area rather than carrying the product to the saw, says Martin. “Paving and wall materials are heavy, and it’s physically demanding to move them to the saw and back to where they will be installed.”

Cutting Different Types of Concrete

If you’re cutting a curve, Martin recommends forming your line using pex, hose or fiberglass tent poles. “When cutting wall block, a handheld saw may not cut the whole way through a block,” says Martin. “In this situation, mark the block, then cut as far as the saw blade will reach. Then flip the block, and cut the remainder.”

Dos and Don’ts for Cutting Concrete

When cutting concrete, always:

• Wear safety gear, including hearing, eye and respiratory protection.
• Check the condition of your blade.
• Choose the correct type of blade for the concrete you are cutting.
• Clean up wet slurry before it dries. If it dries, removing it could cause damage to surfaces.
• Actively control dust.

“Unless it’s a very shortcut, dust control is essential,” says Martin. “Cutting generates a lot of dust, some of which is harmful respirable crystalline silica.”

Most saws have a built-in water attachment that will control the dust by wetting it, and some have built-in vacuums like those from IQ Power. Another option is a central dust collector such as those offered by Dust Killer Tools.

“Using a vacuum for dust control will result in a much cleaner job site, without a huge cloud of dust drifting over the work area, neighboring homes and cars,” says Martin.

Some mistakes to avoid include:

• Using a wet blade without using water, which will damage it.
• Cutting concrete in confined spaces without proper ventilation.
• Using dull blades, which will lower the quality of the cut.
• Forcing the blade. If it isn’t cutting properly, instead make multiple shallower passes.
• Cutting through objects embedded in the concrete, like rebar and electrical wires.
• Pulling the saw out of the cut before the blade has spun down.

“Poor planning is also a common issue when dealing with slab cutting,” says Walker. “Measure everything until you are positive that it’s right, then triple check again. You can only make the cut once, and with concrete it isn’t easy to fix mistakes.”

When to Hire a Pro

If you are unsure of your ability, or if it feels dangerous, then call a pro. You might also hire a pro if you have to do major cuts or are unsure about crossing over plumbing and electrical lines.

“Saving money by doing things the DIY way is great, but not if it comes at the cost of an insurance claim for water damage when you cut through a pipe, or a blackout when you slice the electrical line,” says Walker.

FAQs

How long do diamond blades last for cutting concrete?

They can last anywhere from about 10 hours to 100 hours, depending on the manufacturer, technique, surface material and torque of the saw. “If doing a significant amount of cutting, spend at least $100 to $175 on a good blade,” says Martin. “They are well worth the investment!”

Is cutting concrete difficult?

Yes. “Not only is it physically tasking work, which involves heavy equipment and materials, but it is also dirty and dangerous too,” says Walker.

Can you rent tools for cutting concrete?

Yes. You can rent concrete saw-cutting tools from most home improvement box stores, as well as tool rental companies. “The rental cost may vary from $50 to $1,000 depending on your project size and the number of tools, you may require,” says licensed contractor Jay Sanders.

How long does it take to cut concrete?

How long it takes to cut concrete depends on the length and depth of the cut, the quality of the saw and your experience level. “Smaller projects can be accomplished within a few minutes, whereas larger ones might require several hours,” says Sanders. “If you cut through a 4-inch thick concrete slab, using a professional-grade saw, it may demand approximately 45 minutes to one hour.”

Should you wear a mask when cutting concrete?

Yes, definitely. You should wear, at minimum, an N95 respirator mask, plus use other dust control methods such as water or a vacuum.

“Silica dust is a real danger, and it should be feared just as much as people do with mold or asbestos because it can cause serious health problems when not respected,” says Walker.

About the Experts

• Brandon Walker is Superintendent at ASAP Restoration in Tempe, Arizona. He has more than 20 years of experience in the industry, doing everything from running his own company and ASAP teams to all of the odd-jobs in between.
• Jeremy Martin is owner of Willow Gates Landscaping in Mohnton, Pennsylvania, which he founded in 2005. He shares his passion for the industry by teaching installer courses for retaining walls, concrete pavers, permeable pavers and advance hardscape projects, plus speaking at industry events.
• Jay Sanders is a licensed contractor based in Baltimore. He owns Maryland Contractor and Castle Dream Construction, and has been working in construction for more than a decade.

Recalls are never fun. As a consumer, whenever a recall is announced, it’s vital to check to see if any of the products you own are on the list. If they are, it’s important to follow the steps laid out by the manufacturer to return, repair, or replace them and keep you and your family safe. On June 5, Kawasaki Motors USA announced a recall of certain engines in their lawn and garden equipment.

Kawasaki Motors USA has recalled over 68,500 engines in the United States and a further 900 in Canada due to the fact that these engines are prone to dangerous overheating. Read on as we explain which engines have been recalled, why, and what to do if you own one.

• Bad Boy Mowers
• BigDog
• Bobcat
• Cub Cadet
• Hustler
• John Deere
• Kubota

If you purchased any equipment on this list between April 2021 and December 2023, it’s likely included in the recall.