In this article, we dive into the pros and cons of laminate countertops and offer tips on choosing from the many available colors and patterns. You’ll also find photos and guides on various edge styles and backsplash options to help you make the best choice for your kitchen.

What is Laminate?

Laminate is made from layers of resin-coated brown paper that are sandwiched together under high heat and pressure. The top layer is a decorative (colored) paper that’s covered with a hard plastic overlay. The result is a hard, durable material that’s water resistant, easy to clean and relatively inexpensive. What’s more, under heat and pressure it can be easily shaped, making it ideal for the rounded edges of countertops.

Since square corners usually show the brown edge, some manufacturers make a laminate with color throughout by using colored paper for all layers. However, these types are less durable, more brittle and more expensive.

Beware of Dark Colors

Although laminate is durable, scratches are inevitable because countertops typically get heavy wear. Scratches tend to be light colored, which makes them highly visible against deep colors and virtually impossible to hide.

If you love a deep color, find a pattern in that color that’ll help disguise scratches. Test this yourself by taking a color chip and dragging the coarse bottom of a coffee cup across it, and then a steak knife and a pizza cutter. Check the visibility of the scratches.

Another option is to choose a “color core” laminate, which has a much thicker color layer than regular laminate. Test this laminate as well. Unfortunately, this type is three to four times more expensive and not as durable.

Test Laminate Countertop Colors First in Your Kitchen

Laminate is available in a huge array of colors and patterns, which can make decision-making tough. So don’t make your decision at the home center. Select three or four chips you like, plus one or two “wild card” choices, and take them home. Put them on the counter for a week or more—live with them—and judge them against the cabinet and wall colors in your kitchen.

Observe them both in daylight and under the room lights in the evening. The type of light often has a significant impact on the color. You can also request samples directly from laminate countertop manufacturers. One common brand is Formica countertop.

If the small chips available at every kitchen showroom aren’t adequate, ask if larger pieces are available. Or have paint mixed to match the chip and paint a larger board to set in your kitchen.

If you want to venture beyond one color or pattern, say for a fancier counter edge or different-colored backsplash, take samples of those home as well. To make sure you get a good selection, visit a kitchen specialty retailer as well as a home center. You may find a somewhat different color selection and wider range of edge options. To preview the colors and patterns available, visit the laminate manufacturers’ web sites.

Select a Matte Finish to Help Hide Wear

You’ll basically have two choices of surface finish: matte and glossy. Any type of glossy finish will accentuate scratches, and wear will dull it in heavily used areas. So stick with the matte finish. Some matte finishes tend toward the glossy side, so run your scratch test on these chips too. Also, some types of matte finishes have a coarser surface, which can be quite attractive but may require more careful cleaning, especially if they’re light colored.

Choose a Post-formed Top With a Non-drip Edge

Laminate countertops are available in a number of shapes and edge treatments. The most common is called “post-formed,” which means that the top is formed from a single piece of laminate that’s shaped into a backsplash at the rear and a rounded edge in front. Since it’s a single piece, it has no seams to separate and no corners to catch dirt. It’s a snap to keep clean. And some have a slightly raised front edge to keep spills from running over. It’s also usually the least expensive choice.

Normally you have to order laminate countertops, but if you’re not picky about color, you can sometimes buy post-formed countertops off-the-shelf in home centers. You’ll find limited colors, sizes and shapes, and it’ll take a bit more work to install them because you’ll have to cut them to length and install laminate end caps. You can buy 45-degree angled sections for corners and join them. And you can’t beat the price.

Alternatives to the Conventional Post-formed Backsplash

The conventional post-formed, coved backsplash has it hands down when it comes to cleaning and convenience. But consider other options if you want to add that decorator touch to your kitchen. A butt backsplash, which sits on top of the countertop, allows you to choose different colors, patterns and materials to accent an otherwise plain top. Or combine the backsplash with the wall covering.

You can run tile, stone, sheet metal or laminate itself on the wall down to the countertop and run a smooth bead of caulk along the countertop/wall joint. This method gives you a bit more countertop depth, but make sure you think through all the wall details before you choose it.

Custom Edge Options

Laminate has a lot of style, especially when it comes to countertop edges. Dealers can show you a wide range of them, from simple bullnoses to beveled laminate, to wood, to various inlays—at a wide range of prices! It doesn’t take much to make the countertop look elegant. You can even get pre-manufactured edges with greater design detail. Here are several buying tips:

• Avoid edges with sharp corners and sharp lower edges if you have toddlers. They’ll no doubt bump their head at some point.
• Wood edges are handsome, but they’re more vulnerable to moisture and wear. You have to touch up the finish periodically to keep them looking sharp.
• If you opt for a natural stone–style laminate, choose a beveled edge to mimic a stone edge.
• Make sure any edging you choose won’t interfere with drawers or the dishwasher door.

Measure Carefully Before Ordering

All you need for your initial visit to a kitchen dealer is a rough sketch of your kitchen and rough measurements. A designer will be able to take that information and work up a rough estimate of costs for the various options. If you order your countertops and have the dealer install them, the dealer will probably send out someone to take exact measurements. It’s their responsibility to get it right.

But if you plan to install the countertops yourself, you’ll probably have to take your own measurements for the order. Any wrong measurement is an expensive mistake! Make sure the dealer walks you through all the details to include on the final countertop plan, including the locations and sizes of appliances, cabinet sizes, sink positions, islands, walls, etc. Then triple-check your measurements to ensure accuracy. And make sure the longest countertop piece will fit through the door and around obstructions to get to your kitchen!

Hard water stains are a pain to clean off brick. However, as much as you may want to put off the chore, they’re an unsightly blemish. So you’re better served cleaning them up. But hard water stains, especially those on bricks, are tricky to clean. They require a lot of scrubbing and specialized cleaners to get the job done right. Start by making sure you’ve got all your supplies handy, and some time set aside to knock the chore out.

What Are Hard Water Stains?

Hard water stains are the result of minerals in your water; the water evaporates and the buildup stays behind. They are generally composed of calcium carbonate. This means that you’ll need an acid-based cleaner to get rid of them. However, you cannot use just any acid-based cleaner; some of them will do more harm than good. For example, don’t use muriatic acid, because it can stain or bleach many colors of brick and cause aluminum window frames to corrode.

Break Out the Elbow Grease

Instead, several brick cleaners are available that, because of special buffers, work well without those problems. Your local brick dealer probably carries these products. But if not, companies like ProSoCo and Diedrich Technologies offer reputable exterior brick cleaner products so you can learn how to clean exterior brick.

When you clean the brick, remember that you are using an acid-based product and follow all precautions and directions carefully. Do not mix the cleaner with other cleaners or you run the risk of creating toxic gasses. And be sure to wear proper protective equipment while you’re prepping, cleaning, and finishing up.

After cleaning your brick, avoid some future headaches by sealing it with a siloxane or silane-based sealer (available from the same sources listed above). To find out more information on cleaning, visit the Brick Industry Association.

Here in the Upper Midwest, the gardening season is short, typically May through September. By building a greenhouse, we can harness the sun’s rays to let plants thrive as early as March and extend harvest into late fall. A greenhouse is also a great place to store less hardy plants during harsh winters. 

Even if you live in a more temperate region, a greenhouse will create a perfect climate for plants, protecting them from temperature swings, storms and pests. We built our greenhouse from cedar, which weathers beautifully, and polycarbonate sheets, which diffuse the sunlight and give even exposure to all the plants. Get more project details at: https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-a-greenhouse/. 

In a world where power outages can strike without warning, the need for a reliable backup power system for all homes is undeniable. However, traditional gas generators often come with a laundry list of drawbacks — noisy motors, cumbersome size and complex installation processes — that can lead homeowners to delay this important investment.

Enter the DELTA Pro 3 (DP3), the newest portable power station from EcoFlow, dispelling these fears by combining power, portability and ease of use in one sleek package. With its intuitive design and straightforward installation process, any DIY homeowner can quickly and effortlessly set it up, making it a must-have addition to any home.

Flexibility, Versatility, Ease 

EcoFlow’s power systems  can be easily customized to suit the needs of your household. The DELTA Pro 3’s seamless power setup means it can be integrated into your household power system effortlessly, providing power wherever you need it. It powers 99% of household appliances, such as dryers, water heaters, and induction stoves. It can stand alone or be linked together with additional power stations to run in parallel. The unit can also be expanded with additional batteries, allowing owners to run multiple high-power home appliances simultaneously.

As a standalone power source, users can charge it up and plug their devices directly into it whenever and wherever they need it. The DP3 can be charged through your home’s power system, from a gas generator, from your vehicle, or from solar panels. Included are ports to connect it right to your home’s power outlets for all your equipment and appliances making it a seamless installation process for every homeowner.

Portable Power Evolved 

Traditional gas generators have long been a solution for homeowners looking to safeguard their homes from blackouts. However, they’re noisy, hard to start, bulky, heavy and require maintenance. They lack remote control capabilities, and their unstable output risks sensitive equipment.

The EcoFlow DP3, on the other hand, is designed to integrate into every homeowner’s daily life. Compared to traditional gas generators that generate anywhere from 50 to 100 dB of noise, the DP3 is whisper quiet. Through advanced airflow design, the DP3 runs at just 30dB under a 2000W load, setting an industry-first standard. That means better sleep, uninterrupted work efficiency, and a peaceful environment for neighbors.

Smart Control, Wherever You Are 

One of the standout features of all EcoFlow portable power stations, including the new DP3, is their ability to be controlled remotely via smart devices. From anywhere, users can easily start and stop systems, track charging and power usage, and monitor remaining capacity through EcoFlow’s intuitive mobile app. The app’s user-friendly interface allows every homeowner to manage their DP3 effortlessly, providing real-time updates and control at your fingertips. Multiple EcoFlow power stations can be integrated, monitored and controlled simultaneously, ensuring your home remains powered without leaving the comfort of your living room.

For times when it’s not convenient to open the app, the DP3 also features a new larger and brighter color screen with an easy-to-read information display. In bright sunlight or in the dark of a nighttime power outage, users can track and control their systems at a glance.

Big Power, Small Package 

Traditional gas generators are far from attractive objects for your home, but EcoFlow’s line of portable power systems are designed to fit seamlessly — and stylishly — into your home and lifestyle. The new DP3 pushes the envelope in terms of visual appeal and portability. Drawing inspiration from the sleek lines of luxury sports cars, the DP3 boasts a sophisticated blend of form and function. The unit’s exterior — wrapped in a stylish Galactic Silver color — is UV-coated, splash-proof and heat-proof, making it resilient for daily use anywhere you need it.

A built-in retractable handle and wheels mean it can be rolled anywhere it’s needed with the ease of transporting carry-on luggage. The wheels themselves were designed for optimal balance and leverage, reducing the effort required to transport it. In designing the DP3, EcoFlow made ergonomics a priority: it can be effortlessly maneuvered by anyone.

As an added bonus, the DP3’s portability means you can take it wherever you need power, whether it’s a backyard barbecue, an off-grid cabin, or a busy worksite — from power tools to coffee makers and hot plates, the DP3 seamlessly goes along with you, wherever you need to power your lifestyle.

With EcoFlow’s DELTA Pro 3, powering your home has never been easier. 

Electrical outlets and switches on exterior walls can leak a lot of cold outside air into the house. Add up all the outlets in the average house, and you can experience some serious heat loss, which makes it worth spending 10 minutes per outlet plugging the holes.

Before you start, flip the circuit breaker off and use a noncontact voltage tester to ensure there’s no power. Remove the cover plate. If the gap between the electrical box and the drywall is less than 1/4 in., fill it with acrylic latex caulk. If the gap is bigger and lopsided, use foam sealant that’s formulated for use around doors and window framing. The minimally expanding foam won’t drip down your walls.

After the foam dries, cut away any that protrudes, add a foam gasket (to reduce drafts through the box) and replace the cover plate. Do the same around register openings on the inside of exterior walls.

Are your floors putting a little too much spring in your step? The only good bouncy floor is the inflatable building at a kid’s birthday party! If you notice a springy bounce when you cross the floor, it’s time to learn about fixing a bouncy floor.

I contacted carpenters and contractors and asked for their help explaining what causes a bouncy floor when you need to worry about it, and the most common ways to address the issue. Most of the solutions are DIY-friendly, but there is a catch: for all but one solution, you need access to the floor joists from below. That means having a basement or accessible crawlspace. If your bounce is occurring on the second floor or over a slab or finished basement, then you’ll have significantly more work involved.

What Causes Bouncy Floors?

“‘Bouncy’ floors usually result from structural issues within the floor,” explains Joshua Parrish, general contractor and co-owner of Hammer and Handsaw. Parrish says those issues can include undersized or improperly-spaced joists, inadequate support, and poorly fastened plywood.

Brandon Walker of ASAP Restoration agrees. “There are many things that can cause a floor to trampoline,” he says. “One of the most common is poor construction, coupled with aging or sub-par materials.”

Improper Installation

If floor joists are spaced too far apart or aren’t sufficiently sized, they won’t provide enough structural stability, and the entire flooring assembly will shake as weight is added. Another common installation issue is subfloor fasteners. If these aren’t installed properly, the floor will develop a gap between the subfloor and the joists, resulting in a bounce.

Improper Modifications

It’s not unusual to see homes where past homeowners have hacked out a floor joist section in order to make room for tall exercise or playroom equipment. Another common issue is when a large pass-through for electric or plumbing lines are carved out in the middle of the joist span.

Water Damage

Water exposure can damage sub-flooring, joists, or sill plates. If any of these begin to rot away, they can give a bouncy floor feeling.

What Is Floor Deflection?

A floor’s “deflection” is the distance it moves when weight is placed on it. All floors have some level of movement, but it’s usually imperceptibly small. If your bouncy floor is noticeable and it bothers you, then it’s an issue. If you don’t notice it, you probably don’t need to worry about it.

However, don’t confuse “can’t notice” with “stopped noticing after a while.” This is something I personally struggle with. For example, I moved into a beautiful old house with a noticeable bounce on one side of the living room. I made a mental note to fix it, but only after I finished fixing the wiring, the roof damage… you see where this is going. Fast-forward a couple of years, and I’d totally forgotten about the bounce until a visiting carpenter pointed out that the floor hadn’t, in fact, fixed itself.

How much deflection is acceptable for a floor?

Building code provides a few different deflections depending on the size and material of the flooring and the usage of the space. But for a typical living room, bedroom, or other living space, here’s the rule of thumb: Take the floor length and divide it by 360. The result is the acceptable deflection.

Both Parrish and Walker suggest using the “L/360 rule” as a guideline, while also noting that all floor bounce must be taken on a case-by-case basis.

Sometimes, the deflection is below the L/360 threshold, but it still feels bouncy. In those cases, you can typically tighten it up by using one of the methods described below. If the deflection is over that L/360 number, you may need to act more aggressively and call in a pro.

How to Measure Floor Deflection

The easiest way to measure floor deflection is to use a laser level, but a long straight edge or level can also work. Use the laser or other level to establish a baseline and take a measurement. Then, apply a load to the floor (enough weight to trigger the ‘bounce’ you’ve noticed). Take another measurement while that load is on the floor; the difference between those measurements is the floor’s deflection.

Sagging vs. Deflection

Deflection only lasts as long as the additional weight is on the floor. If your floors “sag” — meaning they have a noticeable downward bowing even when no additional weight is added — you may have a more serious issue. If that’s the case, consult a contractor or structural engineer.

Solutions for Bouncy Floors

Fixing a bouncy floor almost always involves bolstering the structure, either by adding stiffness or distributing the weight load across a wider area. The experts I spoke with provided a number of possibilities, but the best solution for your floor will depend on the source of the bounce, the severity of the issue, how much access you have to the floor joists, and what, if any, mechanical lines run through the bouncy section of the floor.

Be sure to match the fix with the actual cause of the problem. For example, if you shore up a water-damaged joist without stopping the water infiltration, all you’re really doing is hiding the bigger issue.

Add Bridging

Bridging, sometimes called “X-bracing,” are distinctive, angled strips of wood or metal installed between joists, allowing multiple joists to share a weight load. This solution is relatively easy and inexpensive, making it a good solution to try first. Even if your joists already have a row of bridging at the center of the span, adding a row on each side of the existing bridging will stiffen the floor.

Add Blocking

Blocking is the same concept as bridging, but using solid lumber that’s typically the same size as the joists themselves.

Add Plywood

As a joist bends downward, the lower edge bends slightly to one side or the other. A layer of 3/4-in. plywood firmly fastened to the undersides of joists helps prevent this side-to-side bending and stiffens the floor. A rock-solid bond is crucial; use lots of screws and construction adhesive.

Add a Post

An adjustable steel post can be an easy fix for bouncy flooring if the bounce is limited to a specific joist or two. The post supports the joist and helps hold it steady.

Add a Beam

A beam runs perpendicularly below the floor joists, distributing the forces from above and letting the entire floor (and walls) share the load. Beams leave the basement space open, while a wall is a good choice if you are already planning to divide the basement.

Sistering Floor Joists

“Sistering” means setting a new joist along the length of an existing one, effectively doubling the joist’s width. This results in added strength and stability that can dramatically reduce floor bounce. The downside is that sistering multiple joists can be a big job, especially if you need to re-run mechanicals such as plumbing or electrical.

Upgrade Subflooring

Brandon Walker suggested a solution that may also work for those who don’t have access to floor’s underside: a subflooring upgrade. “Not all subflooring is equal,” he points out. If the installed subfloor is too thin, then it might be the cause of the bouncing floor. “One of the best ways to fix this situation is to increase the thickness of the subflooring.” Of course, you’ll also have to tear off and relay the finish flooring, so this solution does take a fair amount of work.

When to Call a Pro to Fix Floor Deflection

Call in a pro if your floor deflection is past the L/360 guideline, if the floor is sagging rather than bouncing, or if the source of the bounce has impacted multiple parts of the structure. If you don’t trace the source of the bounce back to the core problem and resolve the cause, fixing a bouncy floor is only hiding a larger issue.

Parrish recalls one such property that required far more than a simple fix. “I found evidence of water damage in the kitchen, which compromised the floor and wall framing,” he says. “So after demolition, we had to replace the joists, sister additional joists, repair the damaged ledger and reframe the wall. If we didn’t replace all of these, the integrity of the floor would not be fully addressed and could lead to further structural problems.”

About the Experts

• Joshua Parrish, a licensed general contractor and construction business owner with nearly a decade of experience in home renovations, property flips and new construction. He is also co-owner of the Hammer and Handsaw blog, which features home improvement tips, property flip stories, DIY projects and more.
• Brandon Walker has been in the painting and construction industry for more than 20 years. After running his own company, he decided to advance his skills as a Superintendent with ASAP Restoration.

Sources

• American Wood Council: Tutorial for Understanding Loads and Using Span Tables
• International Residential Code (IRC); Chapter 5: Flooring

There are many ways to cool off during the hot summer months in the south. Old-school sprinklers, water pads, kiddie pools, you name it—I’ve tried them all over the years. Having grown up in the heat and humidity, there isn’t a body of water (man-made or not) that I haven’t dipped my toes in to find some relief.

Now that I’ve got a backyard of my own, I knew it was time to invest in an above-ground pool. I wasn’t quite sold on the work that an in-ground pool would take (not to mention the financial investment) and I wanted something more than an inflatable pool that my dog would eventually destroy. So I landed on an above-ground pool. To be more specific, I chose the Funsicle Above-Ground Swimming Pool.

Here’s my full and honest Funscicle pool review.

What is the Funsicle Above-Ground Pool?

The Funsicle Above-Ground Pool is (as the name states) an above-ground pool offering potential buyers a cheaper alternative to the work, space and financial investment required by an in-ground pool.

Unlike visiting a community pool, Funsicle above-ground pool owners get the privacy of enjoying the relaxation in the comfort of their own yard. Just one payment and you can have a pool party any time of the year with anyone you want—no need to worry about crowds or feeling uncomfortable in a swimsuit in front of strangers.

There are two sizes to this product and I decided on the smaller size because I didn’t want my entire yard to be taken up by the pool. I wanted a place for friends and family to come and relax so with the ability to accommodate up to seven people comfortably, the 14-inch diameter was more than enough room.

Funsicle Pool Features

The Funsicle Pool includes many notable features and accessories:

• Ground cover
• Stylish teak-inspired print exterior made of 3-ply ToughMesh materials
• Decorative blue and teal tile-inspired interior
• SureStep Ladder allows for easy pool access
• SmartConnect poles with snap-together framing allow for easy assembly
• SFX1000 SkimmerPlus Filter Pump
• 2-in-1 plug for easy water drainage
• Maintenance kit includes manual skimmer with multi-length handle and replacement hose for skimmer pump

How We Tested It

Unboxing and Ground Prep

When the pool was delivered, it was a large, very heavy box. Inside were several smaller boxes with the individual components and their instruction manuals. I was pleasantly surprised at the sturdiness of the exterior poles and the vivid color of the inside liner.

The ground liner is noticeably thinner than the pool itself, so buyers should do a thorough job of clearing and preparing the ground before setting up the pool. I haven’t yet had any rips or tears in the pool, but it has only been a couple of months. There are two patches for repairs if I ever need them.

Here’s an important reminder: Please, please prepare your ground beforehand. I set this pool up with little to no regard for the slope of my backyard, and while minimal, I currently have a deep and a shallow end to the pool. I have set up the ladder at the shallow end for convenience but next summer I will need to drain and adjust the placement of the pool. I didn’t want to waste the water that I had already put in.

Assembly

While the pool did require some help to assemble, it was easy enough with two people. There is a simple snap-and-lock feature on the frame that makes it easy to assemble and disassemble. I would highly recommend at least two people!

While I was putting this together, I was hesitant to continue after I laid out the ground cover, which is essentially a tarp. It’s quite thin so next season, I’ll probably rethink the cover and may need to build a deck or some sort of flat surface that isn’t directly on the ground. The bars that make up the frame are metal but the feet they go into to help stay sturdy are plastic. The inside of the pool itself is a sleek vinyl-like material and the outside is printed to give the appearance of teak. There are several different outside prints available on the Funsicle website, including stone slate, rattan and solid grey.

Filling Up

I did get in and out of the empty pool several times before filling it up. Before I filled the pool, it rained for several days so I had to put the manual skimmer and drainage valve to the test. They both work! The drainage plug will get clogged if you allow too much debris into your pool so regardless of how much manual skimming you do, you may need to go back in and wipe down the plug. Learn from my lesson— do not get into the slightly wet pool with no shoes on. The interior liner is very slippery and I may have busted my hip while trying to clean.

Please note that the skimmer pump is located at the top of the pool, so you must have the pool all the way filled for it to begin working. Also, when setting up the pool, the instruction manual strongly suggested the pool be at least 20 feet away from your house. However, there is an electrical component to the skimmer—as in, it only will run if it’s plugged in—so please be aware that you should place the pump as close to an electrical outlet as possible. I was not aware of this when I set it up so I needed to run an extension cord to connect to the outdoor outlets of my house.

Swimming

Now for the fun part—swimming. Now, I just need to snag some fun pool accessories and I’ll be good to go! Living in the south means that I have lots of warm days during the summer, so the water naturally heats up in the sunshine. If I didn’t live in a place that had many days in the 90s during the summer months, I would probably be investing in a solar-powered water heater (as those first few dips required some major acclimatization).

I think my Funsicle pool review will be complete after a solid season of using the pool, but so far I have only had issues with the cover. It seems quite flimsy and is hard to keep tight on the pool. Summer in the south does include lots of storms so any kind of rain or wind blows the cover right off, even with the drawstring feature.

Pros

• Includes filter system, manual cleaning kit, and clear assembly directions
• Easy assembly
• Bright interior color and stylish exterior
• Cheaper than an inground pool
• Can use year-round
• You can take this wherever you move to—it can be torn down, moved, and rebuilt

Cons

• Flooring seems a little thin even with the ground liner. so repairs may need to be more frequent if the land is not prepared properly
• Included cover requires two people to put on; does not stay on through wind or rain

FAQ

Who makes Funsicle?

Funsicle is owned by Polygroup. The company owns several seasonal brands, specifically based around winter holiday decor.

How long does it take to fill up a Funsicle pool?

Depending on the water input and the size of the pool that is purchased, it can take up to a full day to fill. The 14-inch diameter pool can hold up to just over 3.3k gallons of water and took nearly six hours to fill with a steady flow of water from a standard lawn hose.

Is it safe to have an above-ground pool?

There is always a risk associated with pools, even when the swimmers can easily stand in the pool; and because these pools are typically in homeowner’s backyards, there are often fewer safety precautions followed. Please keep a close eye on children and pets near any above-ground (or inground) pool.

What Other Reviewers Have to Say

Overall, this pool does what it says it’s going to do. There’s a cute design for those wanting something less austere, a sturdy build to ensure longevity, and built-in cleaning mechanics and tools. Here are some other Funsicle Pool reviews:

“I think it’s a great pool, looks cute and easy to assemble no issues with leaks, the filter works great,” reviewer Jessica R. explains. “I did add a solar heater to warm the water, but everything that came with this pool is great! No complaints. And considering the price and everything that comes with it, it’s a great deal too.”

One review on the Funsicle website described it as “a pool in a box” and it is! Everything you need is delivered to your door. I think I’ll get a cute chlorine dispenser and depending on how long into the year I want to use it, perhaps a solar-powered water heater.

Funsicle Pool vs. Summer Waves Pool

The Funsicle Pool and the Summer Waves Pool are both owned by Polygroup. While very similar, there are several differences in these pools.

The Funsicle above-ground pools come with the maintenance set, ground cover, and a ladder, while the comparable Summer Waves pools only come with the ladder and you have to purchase the additional pieces. Both come with a repair patch. The interior design is similar yet slightly different—the Funsicle features a vertical hexagon and the Summer Wave features a square tile.

One major difference is that the Funsicle pools do not come with a chlorinator but the Summer waves do.

Final Verdict

Overall, I think this is a great splash pool for the price. I’m hopeful that the durability means it will last me for several seasons. The thick material of the liner, the ease of assembly (and therefore disassembly), the positive reviews from other purchasers, and the reputability of the brand all confirm that this was a worthwhile purchase.

As a woman in her mid-thirties, this is the perfect setup in my backyard for friends and family to come and relax during the summer months. I’ve even gotten a few inquiries from my neighbor about when she can come over to hang out.

Where to Buy the Funsicle Above-Ground Pool

This pool can be found on several major retail websites. I purchased mine from Amazon for under $500, but you can also buy this pool at Lowe’s or Walmart. So, what are you waiting for? It’s time to have some summer fun in the comfort of your backyard.

Attic vents are one of the unsung heroes in a home, quietly maintaining proper air circulation in your attic 365 days a year.

While most of us try to seal our homes from the elements with insulation, siding and high-efficiency windows and doors, attic vents are one place where it’s good to let outside air in. Here, we’ll discuss ways to improve attic ventilation with pro tips and advice from two industry experts: Reuben Saltzman from Structure Tech and Matt Fabry from Roots Construction.

Attic Ventilation Explained

Attic ventilation promotes air circulation to regulate temperatures and humidity levels in an attic. “You want your attic temperature the same as the outside temperature,” Fabry says.

Without attic vents, hot air has nowhere to go and builds up in the summer, raising cooling costs and reducing shingle life. In the winter, warm, moist air that seeps into the attic from the living space below gets trapped, causing moisture issues, mold and ice dams.

Good attic ventilation is key to preventing these issues.

How Does Attic Ventilation Work?

Strategically placed intake and exhaust vents create a constant flow of air through the attic. “Air enters the attic at the lower vents and leaves at the uppermost vents due to the stack effect [that] warm air rises,” Saltzman says. To improve attic ventilation, place exhaust vents near the roof’s peak and intake vents in the eaves.

Types of Attic Ventilation

There are several types of exhaust and intake vents available.

Roof exhaust vents

Exhaust vents are located near the top of the roof.

• Ridge vents: Ridge vents are integrated into the roof ridge, providing even ventilation along the entire roof length. To improve attic ventilation, use ridge vents along with baffles installed in the attic to allow air to flow past the insulation (Photo 9).
• Gable vents: Located near the top of gable walls. These vents work as intake and exhaust points for attic ventilation.
• Box or louver vents: Square roof vents installed between roof rafters, box vents are a popular choice on today’s roofs. Easy to install due to their smaller size (typically 18×18 inches), you will need numerous box vents to provide adequate attic ventilation.
• Turbine vents: These wind-powered exhaust vents use lightweight aluminum blades to catch passing breezes. When wind speeds reach 5 to 6 miles per hour, the turbine vent spins, exhausting air from the attic.

Roof intake vents

Intake vents are usually located in the eaves or soffits.

• Soffit vents: Often rectangular or square, individual soffit vents are evenly spaced along the soffit length. Continuous soffit vents are long, narrow strips of perforated panels that interconnect to form a continuous run along the soffit.
• Drip edge vents: These roof vents are installed in place of a typical drip edge as they have perforated holes to provide ventilation.
• Circular Vents: Available in 2-, 3- and 4-inch diameters, circular vents are ideal if you don’t have soffits. These are installed into the blocking between exposed rafter tails.
• Flash Filter Vent: This vent is a raised channel installed in the roof where it meets a vertical wall.

Attic Venting Requirements

Most building codes require 1 sq. ft. of venting (technically, “net free vent area,” or NFVA) for each 150 sq. ft. of attic. In some circumstances, you can have less, but we recommend the 1:150 ratio. So in a house with a 1,500-sq.-ft. the attic will need 10 sq. ft. of venting.

How To Improve Attic Ventilation

It is not difficult to install more vents to improve attic ventilation.

Split your attic’s total square feet of required venting between the intake and exhaust vents. Plan to place an equal number of intake vents on both sides of the house, evenly spaced along the soffits or roofline.

Space exhaust vents evenly across the roof as well. From the attic, drive a nail through the shingles to mark their location (Photo 1). Place all roof vents on the same side of the roof.

Ridge vents are more complex, so consider hiring a pro or having one installed during a roof replacement.

Attic Fans

Solar or electric attic fans can be used to exhaust attic air.

What are attic fans?

Attic fans are powered exhaust fans located on a roof or gable wall of a home. Installed like a box vent, these are more powerful than passive exhaust methods.

How do attic fans help with ventilation?

In theory, attic fans help expel air from the attic, increasing the intake air from lower vents. However, Saltzman does not recommend using attic fans to help vent your attic. “If the attic lid is not perfectly air-sealed (most aren’t), an attic fan will pull conditioned household air into the attic space,” he says. “This can lead to increased heating and cooling loads for the house and increased frost accumulation in the attic during the winter.”

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the best ventilation for an attic?

“Every roof should have vents to allow air to enter at the lowest part of the attic, and vents at the top as well,” Saltzman says. The best type of vents for your home will vary. Fabry finds ridge vents to be the most effective exhaust vent solution.

What happens if an attic isn’t vented?

An unvented attic acts like a solar oven in the summer, raising your cooling bills and cooking the shingles. In the winter, snow melts on the roof and the water refreezes on the cold eaves, creating ice dams.

In addition, warm air that escapes the living space will condense on rafters or roof sheathing in an unvented attic. “Frost accumulation can lead to mold in the attic, water stains on the finished ceilings, wet insulation and deteriorated roof sheathing,” Saltzman says.

Can you have too much venting in an attic?

You can have too much exhaust ventilation but not air intake. Powered exhaust vents, in particular, can expel more air than can be replaced via intake vents and can begin to draw air from the living space.

Fabry also cautions against combining too many types of venting. “You should not have gable vents with ridge vents and soffit vents,” he says, “It defeats the purpose.” The ridge vents will pull air from the gable vents instead of the soffit vents and reduce their effectiveness.

Should you block attic vents in winter?

No. Attic vents prevent ice dams and trap moisture during the winter. “Most of the reason you have roof vents is because of the stuff that happens during the winter,” Saltzman says.

Can water or animals get into roof vents?

Yes. Cracked or damaged vents can allow water into the attic and should be replaced. Keep animals out with roof vent covers made of metal mesh.

About the Experts

• Matthew Fabry is the owner of Roots Construction in Easthampton, Massachusetts. He is a licensed general contractor in the state.
• Reuben Saltzman is the owner and CEO of Structure Tech, a home inspection company in St. Louis Park, Minnesota.

First used in the 1930s to keep weeds down along many of America’s new roads, propane torches have found a permanent place among organic farmers as a chemical-free way to manage weeds. Today, many homeowners are drawn to this weeding method, which requires little physical effort and time. “Flame weeding can be an effective alternative,” Garrett Poshusta from The Grit and Polish says.

After years of pulling, spraying and cursing the weeds on my property, I’ve finally switched to burning weeds with propane and could not be happier with my decision. Ahead, learn all about weed torches with pro tips from Poshusta and Tim Thompson from YouTube’s Farm Learning with Tim Thompson.

What Is a Weed Torch?

A weed torch consists of a long wand with a handle on one end and a burner cylinder head on the other. The wand is connected to a liquid propane source and ignites at the burner head. This generates an intense, concentrated heat that is then directed at weeds, killing green growth.

Weed torches come in different styles for various applications. There are single-head torches meant for smaller jobs and multi-head set-ups for large agricultural fields. Wands can have straight or curved handles. Poshusta finds curved wands more comfortable to use.

How much does a weed torch cost?

Expect to pay between $30 to $250 for a residential weed torch. Small torches that produce lower temperatures will fall on the lower end of the price range, while larger torches with a full-size propane tank and mobility system will cost much more.

Does Torching Weeds Work?

Yes, burning weeds with propane can be part of an effective management plan. The torches easily kill the green growth on weeds, but sometimes leave the root system intact. Hardier perennial and woody weeds can regrow from undisturbed root systems. “Repeated applications are necessary,” Thompson says, “but eventually, the roots will become depleted and die due to continued heat treatment.”

Weed torches are most effective at quickly killing annual weeds two to three inches tall. “Torching is most effective on small weeds with small roots,” Poshusta says. “So frequent, low-intensity application will give the best results.”

Is it Safe to Burn Weeds?

Yes, but certain precautions should be taken.

Weed torches can reach temperatures of 2000 to 2250 degrees Fahrenheit. To prevent burns, always face the torch head away from you when lighting and using it. “Be aware of the direction of the flame when using the torch, and remember that the tip will remain hot for a period of time after use,” Thompson says. Always wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, gloves and close-toed shoes during use.

To avoid inadvertently starting a fire, don’t torch weeds during dry conditions or on a windy day. Always have a water source ready to extinguish any unwanted flames. Consider torching weeds after a soaking rain to avoid sparking a brush fire. “Make sure there are no burn bans active in your location and take precautions to avoid unintended fire spread,” Poshusta says.

How to Use a Weed Torch

Using a weed torch is relatively simple, but be sure to follow all manufacturer instructions carefully.

• With all valves closed, connect the torch to the propane tank and slowly open the tank valve. Slightly open the torch valve and use a flint spark igniter to ignite the gas at the burner head. Adjust the flame size with the control knob on the torch.
• Direct the burner head toward the weeds you’d like to remove, remaining 4 to 6 in. above the ground. Apply heat in a sweeping motion across the plants until they begin to wilt, then move on to the next area. “You don’t have to completely incinerate the leaves. Simply wilting them down is often sufficient,” Poshusta says.
• Move slowly across the area, applying heat to all visible weeds. “The woodier the weeds, the slower you need to go,” Thompson says. To make it easier to use with larger propane tanks, use a tank cart to move the setup around your yard as you go.

Weed Torch Pros and Cons

Pros

A propane torch is a fast, low-effort method to kill weeds without the use of chemicals and herbicides. “The big two advantages of heat torches are the instant results (you can literally look back at yellowing weeds as you work) and the lack of toxic chemicals,” Thompson says.

Without the presence of chemicals or residue, once burned off, neighboring beneficial plants can quickly replace unwanted weeds. This method also avoids damaging nearby plants with herbicide overspray.

“[Weed torches] are particularly useful around patios, sidewalks and other hardscape or gravel surfaces since these don’t burn,” Poshusta says. Weeds that sprout in cracks and driveways are notoriously difficult to pull can also be easily managed with a propane torch.

Cons

While a great tool for managing weeds, burning weeds with propane can cause fires if not used correctly or in overly dry, windy conditions. “You need to be careful not to use it on fire danger days,” Thompson says.

While fast and effective, killing weeds for good with a propane torch often takes several treatments.

Additionally, Poshusta points out that while this method avoids using chemical herbicides, it does require burning fossil fuel. “It also doesn’t work well when weeds are in close proximity to other plants you want to keep,” he says.

FAQs

Do weed torches kill the roots?

It depends. “Different types of weeds may respond differently to being burned. Some will die off completely and others will grow back from the roots and require another round,” Poshusta says.

Is it legal to use a propane torch?

The legality of burning weeds with propane can vary depending on local and state regulations. Always check your local laws and regulations before purchasing and using a weed torch.

About the Experts

• Tim Thompson is an Australian Agriculture educator. He hosts Farm Learning with Tim Thompson on YouTube to empower people with knowledge and skills to better manage their land. It features top farmers and practitioners who share their skills and try out new ideas and products to make life on the farm or homestead easier.
• Garrett Poshusta is one half of the husband and wife duo behind The Grit and Polish, a website devoted to home maintenance, renovation and improvement tutorials. The couple have been renovating and renting homes since 2008.

With summer outdoor activities in full swing, everyone’s looking for ways to keep mosquitoes, flies and other pests at bay — and Irish Spring soap is a perennial trending solution. In this YouTube video, the host places a bar on the porch, rubs it on doors and tables, puts grated flakes in various locations and dissolves it in water to spray plants and her own skin.

We contacted four experts to answer the question: Does Irish Spring soap keep mosquitoes and flies away?

Why Might The Irish Spring Soap Hack Work?

Mosquitoes and flies are incredibly sensitive to odors, like carbon dioxide and components in sweat and body heat, since that’s how female mosquitoes locate hosts for a meal, says Dr. Louisa Messenger, Assistant Professor at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Instead of repelling bugs, when soaps and creams seem to work as a defense, most likely they are briefly just altering our skin microbiome, changing the way we smell.

“It means these soaps, creams and lotions will not function in the same manner for everyone and will not also cause the same effect consistently, since our skin microorganisms are constantly changing,” she says.

Does Irish Spring Soap Really Keep Mosquitoes Away?

Considering Irish Spring soap is a potent-smelling soap, there’s theoretically reason to believe you could use it to repel bugs. The question is: does it really work? The experts say not really.

“There is no scientific evidence,” says David Price, an entomologist at Mosquito Joe. Some soaps with essential oils can repel insects for a short time but, “Irish Spring soap specifically doesn’t have enough quantity to register for mosquitoes [and] no ingredients that would repel flies,” he says.

That being said, the strong scent of Irish Spring may have some repellent properties if placed in certain areas, “just like how citronella candles technically repel mosquitoes flying in the immediate air column above the candle,” says Emma Grace Crumbley, and entomologist with Mosquito Squad. But more research would need to be done to prove that, along with what might be the most effective uses.

Breaking Down the Video: Does Irish Spring Soap Keep Mosquitoes Away

Does putting Irish Spring soap on the porch repel mosquitoes?

Nope. Even if the scent were to repel insects, “the potency will not be direct enough to repel flying bugs,” says Crumbley.

Does rubbing Irish Spring soap on the door repel mosquitoes?

Nope. “The thing that stops flies from coming through the door is the door,” says Crumbley. “Rubbing soap on would not be as aromatic. Maybe a door frame made of soap would work.”

Does rubbing Irish Spring soap around your table repel mosquitoes?

Again, the soap is not aromatic enough. “This may be more repellent than a citronella candle in the middle of the table, since the soap covers more surface area. [Or] maybe fewer flies come over because you’re sitting at the table, not because of the soap,” says Crumbley.

Does Irish Spring soap in a jar repel mosquitoes and flies?

“[Irish Spring soap in a jar] is a worse version of a citronella candle,” says Crumbley. “Unless the flies are in the jar with the soap, no scent is emitted that the flies would detect. The only pros to this hack are that it’s one of the cleanest ones in the video, with very little mess left behind.”

Do Irish Spring soap shavings in the trash mosquitoes and flies?

“This could have a repellent effect, specifically on flies looking for nearby trash,” says Crumbley. “Putting the soap in the garbage also protects it from environmental factors like rain and sunlight, potentially making the soap’s potency last longer.”

Do Irish Spring soap shavings in the grass/on the windowsill repel mosquitoes?

“You’ll need a lot of soap shavings to cover that property,” says Crumbley. “Additionally, soap lying in direct sunlight can lose potency over time and leech into the soil, possibly harming plants, or melt onto the windowsill, leaving behind green gunk everywhere.”

Will an Irish Spring soap and water mixture repel mosquitoes?

Even if spraying Irish Spring soap on plants did work to repel bugs, it’s not recommended. Covering plants and soil life with soap can damage both, says Emily May, a pollinator conservation specialist at The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation. Dish and hand soaps “can be phytotoxic, disrupting plant cell membranes and weakening plant defenses. Soaps can also be toxic to a variety of soft-bodied invertebrates, including caterpillars and earthworms, as well as soil microbes,” she says.

Some horticulturalists recommend spraying soapy water to deter garden pests like aphids and mites. However, if you must do that, use castile soap, not detergents or deodorant soaps like Irish Spring.

Does spraying an Irish Spring soap and water mixture on your skin repel mosquitoes?

Spraying Irish Spring soap on your skin could potentially work to repel mosquitoes. “It would temporarily mask indicators for mosquitos, however a DEET product is best,” says Price. Once it dries, it also sounds like a recipe for itchy skin.

What Are Better Ways to Keep Pesky Insects Away?

“Instead of spending my time and money rubbing my house down with soap, I would instead invest in some EPA approved repellent,” says Messenger. “There are plenty of over-the-counter products that can provide hours of protection and are backed up by robust, producible scientific data.”

Also, prevention is key, say May and Crumbley. Regularly check for and remove standing water, don’t overwater lawns, put a fan on your outdoor table and add screens to your doors and porches.

About the Experts

Emma Grace Crumbley is an entomologist at Mosquito Squad and a self-described bug nerd who uses her expertise to educate people about the fascinating world of bugs.

Dr. Louisa Messenger is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Environmental and Occupational Health at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. She has worked for more than 14 years in international public health, specializing in control of vector-borne diseases.

David Price is and Associate Certified Entomologist (ACE) and Director of Technical Services at Mosquito Joe, a Neighborly company, where he trains personnel and researches and develops national product lines and services.

Emily May is an entomologist and pollinator conservation specialist on the pesticide reduction team at The Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, where she’s worked for the last nine years.